69 GTO Build

[andrewb70]

Good job Eric.

A lot of people like to powder coat parts, but in many ways the paint is easier and better in the long run, especially if any future modifications will be performed. If I ever do a frame swap on my GTO I will just paint it and down the road I go.

Andrew

[Fastmonty]

Eric,

Great job on the painting... a couple thoughts for you... if your gun tip is too small, experiment with adding a touch of thinner. (Not sure what thinner is used on that SEM paint). I too painted my frame, but with POR15 and a brush! Then I discovered powder coating. The best thing about powder coating is you can bring somewhat dirty parts to them, as long as they're not super greasy. They bead blast and coat it. HUGE time saver. After I got the parts back, I re-tapped threaded holes to get any paint residue out. Done.

Keep up the great work, while I continue to knock out the small issues with "Green Envy".

Mike

['71cutlasluvr]

Hey Gus, yeah a cheap gun is what I have used to get the SPI epoxy primer on and it worked fine, I am no expert painter but for the quality level I am after it looks ok.
For the SEM Rust Shield frame paint (Gloss with Hardener) I struggled with finding a good spray pattern, it is a thicker paint and they recommend a 1.6 tip and I only had a 1.4 the stuff went on a lot different, very sticky and took a long time to lay flat. Maybe with the right equipment it would have been easier? Wondering if anyone else used this paint and if they had luck with adding reducer?
Looks ok though, just don't get too close, haha!



Internal Frame Coating, Sanded Primer

Hi Eric.

First of all, that is a really nice finish on the frame... glossier than I expected. Well Done!


Finally had a chance to respond to your post. Advertising and packing up all the parts and selling from the convertible takes up a lot of time, but I've put away nearly $5000 from the proceeds which helps me get that much closer to getting my project back on track and eventually purchasing the aftermarket chassis.

By the way, I have an older version of this spray gun kit from Eastwood. Haven't even opened it yet! Sheesh....
http://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-au...ng-system.html

Kinda cheap but do you think it will handle the frame and diff?

FYI:I have been corresponding with Tony at the roaster shop. He has been very helpful. I can see why you went with them after all your research. He is very accommodating. I am still considering SRG, Art Morrison and Schwartz but I still have much research to do. As you know the price shoots up fast when you start to add on the options.

Optimistically, I'm thinking maybe, just maybe, I'll be ready for the frame by next fall, maybe early summer if I don't hit too many stumbling blocks along the way, both in time, skillset and available funds. I have put the Miata into a 20ft trailer for the winter, freeing up much needed work space so I hope to get a LOT done while the temps plummet and the snow flies.

I had hoped to visit you before thanksgiving but my road trip to your shop may have to wait a few more weeks. Parting out the 'vert, packaging and shipping parts all over the country has killed a lot of my spare time. Probably the best time to this visit you will be when you have the frame fully assembled with suspension installed or thereabouts. So I will monitor your build thread and will try to come up with a better time for both you me to visit. Really looking forward to seeing your handiwork up close and personal.

One more question: do you think it will be safe to install the mini tubs and the rear lower quarter panels with the body mounted on the rotisserie? Body is currently mounted on the body cart since I have a lot of firewall work to do. Should I do the any tubs while on the body cart? Or will there be enough structural support with the body mounted to the rotisserie? Sure would be easier on the rot, but I just want to be sure I don't twist the body somehow.

As always thank you for your input Eric
much appreciated.

Gus

['71cutlasluvr]

Hey Mike!

I have a powder coater nearby but my problem would be how to get the frame/diff to them without hiring someone with a flat bed trailer or JerrDan. I don't have the skills Eric or you have so I may go that route. Still in the planning stages.

What small issues with Green Envy? Looks to me like you nailed it my friend!

[Fastmonty]

Gus,

Your Devilbiss will work fine for primer. I actually used the Devilbiss Finsihline 4 for my epoxy and DTM primer. I highly recommend their disposable cup system.

Towing your frame is easy if you have AAA.

To answer your YouTube post, I have a mild cam, the car was cold and I'm using Dougs headers with Magnaflow exhaust.

The issues.... Final buff and polish, fix the cold idle, fine tune the curb idle, trim the door weather stripping so they close perfectly flush, install the wiper motor/pump and wipers. Lastly, install seat bracket extenders. With the seat all the way back, my knee can touch the dash board when I clutch. Also feels like I'm driving a NASCAR with the steering wheel uncomfortably close. Just need one more inch.... Never done. Ha ha.

Talk soon, Mike.

[ekmxryda]

Thanks Andrew,
I am one of those odd people who still like paint over powder coat. Like you said when I need to touch up spots or grind and weld to the frame, it is much easier to touch up. I am new to the SEM Rust Shield but I have had good results over the years with Imron polyurethane on parts exposed to abuse, and have seen too many powder coat failures. A good 2 part Powder Coat job with a Zinc based 1st coat is supposed to be the best but I have had peeling on parts after a couple years. It all depends on the preparation I guess, that is another reason why I like paint, I know that every square inch is sanded and cleaned before it is covered.

[ekmxryda]

Hey Mike,
Forgot to mention I used my Devilbiss with a 2.2 tip and that helped.
I have heard of using a ratchet strap overnight to compress your door weatherstrip. Keep up the good work.

[ekmxryda]

Hi Gus,
Glad Tony has been helpful on helping you sort out the chassis.
That spray gun kit will be fine, its all in the preparation like everyone says.
Mini tubs on rotisserie with car upside down is what I did to prevent any sagging after cutting, but there might be good ways to brace everything on the cart if you went that way too.
PM when you want to stop by I will hopefully have things looking better by then, garage is a mess right now, haha.

[67speedfreak]

This project is lookin great ! That chassis looks bad ass !

[67speedfreak]

Eric, Gus, et all,

Great progress, as usual. Sorry for being absent... been kind of crazy with growing the little human, work, etc... but, I was able to perform the first test drive and take project "Green Envy" to the gas station yesterday. I also unveiled it to my Dad for the first time. He teared up, which was the goal... ha, ha.. Below is a brief Youtube link of the start up, and backing out of the driveway. I still have some carb idle issues, alignment, and final polishing to do. But, it was awesome turning heads at the gas station. Which I wish I video'd too.. .because, when we pulled up, there were a few folks admiring a freshly washed yellow C7 Corvette Stingray. I ended that party. Ha, ha...

http://youtu.be/rWDvi1H3ZSo

Talk soon, Mike

Attachment 104522Attachment 104523Attachment 104524

This car is very sweet my friend ! Congrats on a job well done !

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus,

Your Devilbiss will work fine for primer. I actually used the Devilbiss Finsihline 4 for my epoxy and DTM primer. I highly recommend their disposable cup system.

Towing your frame is easy if you have AAA.

To answer your YouTube post, I have a mild cam, the car was cold and I'm using Dougs headers with Magnaflow exhaust.

The issues.... Final buff and polish, fix the cold idle, fine tune the curb idle, trim the door weather stripping so they close perfectly flush, install the wiper motor/pump and wipers. Lastly, install seat bracket extenders. With the seat all the way back, my knee can touch the dash board when I clutch. Also feels like I'm driving a NASCAR with the steering wheel uncomfortably close. Just need one more inch.... Never done. Ha ha.

Talk soon, Mike.

Hello mike
Thanks for the input on my paint gun kit. It's nice when I don't have to buy something else.
I used to have a AAA membership but let it lapse when my daughters moved out. Looks like it may be time for a RE up.
Would like very much to hear green envy when she's warmed up. Lots of muscle car guys seem to like magna flow exhaust. I can see\hear why now. When you blipped the throttle she sounded real mean. 2 1/2 or 3 inch exhaust? How about a few more of videos showing the car idling after warm up, pulling away, and maybe a high speed pass?? ;-) OK maybe a bit too soon for a high speed pass!

I fabbed up a set of seat brackets a while back using a bench seat to bucket seat conversion kit. I'm 6 foot two and had the same problem you have. Never fully installed them since I tore the car apart. I think they would have worked but they were kind of a hack job. If you would be so kind Mike, Where did you get your seat bracket extenders?

OK. So a little more to do but you're well on your way to the homestretch Mike. Hope you're putting some miles on her in your California weather is cooperating. Eric and I are already dealing with cold temps. So enjoy the fruits of your labors. You deserve it.
Gus

['71cutlasluvr]

Hi Gus,
Glad Tony has been helpful on helping you sort out the chassis.
That spray gun kit will be fine, its all in the preparation like everyone says.
Mini tubs on rotisserie with car upside down is what I did to prevent any sagging after cutting, but there might be good ways to brace everything on the cart if you went that way too.
PM when you want to stop by I will hopefully have things looking better by then, garage is a mess right now, haha.

Hey Eric
good advice on doing the mini tubs with the rotisserie. That makes a lot of sense. Doing the tubs on the cart would be very difficult I would imagine. I can't remember where but I swear someone recommended doing the tubs on a cart to maintain structural integrity but doing them inverted on the rotisserie removes the stress. I would guess doing one at the time would be prudent. ;-) I think bracing would be overkill since you did the job successfully with the body inverted. Thank you! You saved me a lot of hassle!

Will do on the PM. Thanks again for the open invite. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing your project real time when you have the chassis reassembled. You know, you got to promise to make a vid of the fire up the engine the first time. That would be way cool!

I hear you about messy garages! I finally have another free bay in my garage! All of the convertible parts have been moved to the basement awaiting advertising and sale. Will finish oil change on the Miata and put her back in the trailer. I will then have plenty of room to start on the firewall with the body on the cart in the comfort of the heated attached garage. If this cold weather is an indicator of what our winters gonna be like, then I think I'm going to be spending a lot of time there. My detached garage is not heated. Guess I could do some small part powder coating when it's this cold but not much more. Guess my blood hasn't thickened up yet!

Is your garage heated Eric? Hope so!
As always thank you for your input Eric much appreciated.
Gus

['71cutlasluvr]

Thanks Andrew,
I am one of those odd people who still like paint over powder coat. Like you said when I need to touch up spots or grind and weld to the frame, it is much easier to touch up. I am new to the SEM Rust Shield but I have had good results over the years with Imron polyurethane on parts exposed to abuse, and have seen too many powder coat failures. A good 2 part Powder Coat job with a Zinc based 1st coat is supposed to be the best but I have had peeling on parts after a couple years. It all depends on the preparation I guess, that is another reason why I like paint, I know that every square inch is sanded and cleaned before it is covered.

That's some good info. Thanks Eric.

[Roger Poirier]

I can't wait to see how this Impala dash is going to fit into a GTO. Now that will be engineering. Watching the build thread with anticipation.

[ekmxryda]

Thanks Brian, your progress with the new sheet metal is looking good.
Gus I planned my whole garage around building the GTO when I built it so I have radiant floor heat!
Hi Roger, I hope to start on the dash in a few weeks after I get the body work sorted out, it should be a fun challenge.
Starting to spray the SEM high build primer on parts, hope to get the whole body done by the weekend. ?

[ekmxryda]

Borrowed a friends shrinker / stretcher and made up some filler pieces to close up around the sides of the rear window.



Paper template helped get it close.



Cut-off wheel to trim without changing the shape.



Copper weld through primer is going to shorten my life! Respirator while welding required. Tacked with glass in place, masked and covered to keep it safe from sparks.

[andrewb70]

Eric,

With the stainless trim around the glass, what will go in the gap between the glass and the metal you just installed?

Andrew

[ekmxryda]

Hey Andrew,
I will have an 1/8" gap around the glass that I plan on filling mostly with urethane.
The glass should be flush to the body after I weld in a 1/8" thick X 1/2" wide piece under the window, just like I did for the front.
Plan on using the 5/16" Butyl tape, with a set of retainer clips top and bottom.

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19979&pom=0

[andrewb70]

Hey Andrew,
I will have an 1/8" gap around the glass that I plan on filling mostly with urethane.
The glass should be flush to the body after I weld in a 1/8" thick X 1/2" wide piece under the window, just like I did for the front.
Plan on using the 5/16" Butyl tape, with a set of retainer clips top and bottom.

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19979&pom=0

Interesting. That will certainly alter the look of the car, although I rather like the stainless trim...LOL

You should check out the past post in my Cougar build. You might be interested in some of those driveline parts...

Andrew

[ekmxryda]

Hi Andrew,
Yeah I have already bookmarked The Driveshaft Shop's website thanks to you, I like the idea of the CV joint at the trans yoke.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com
I'm hoping the flush glass is worth all the effort, its not like I can change it back that easy!

Still fixing the new 1/4's . Not sure if these stampings were worse than the originals, some funny waves on top by the quarter glass seal.
Easier to use the Metal to Metal filler than lead.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=37