69 GTO Build

['71cutlasluvr]

Thanks Andrew,
I am one of those odd people who still like paint over powder coat. Like you said when I need to touch up spots or grind and weld to the frame, it is much easier to touch up. I am new to the SEM Rust Shield but I have had good results over the years with Imron polyurethane on parts exposed to abuse, and have seen too many powder coat failures. A good 2 part Powder Coat job with a Zinc based 1st coat is supposed to be the best but I have had peeling on parts after a couple years. It all depends on the preparation I guess, that is another reason why I like paint, I know that every square inch is sanded and cleaned before it is covered.

That's some good info. Thanks Eric.

[Roger Poirier]

I can't wait to see how this Impala dash is going to fit into a GTO. Now that will be engineering. Watching the build thread with anticipation.

[67speedfreak]

This project is lookin great ! That chassis looks bad ass !

[ekmxryda]

Thanks Brian, your progress with the new sheet metal is looking good.
Gus I planned my whole garage around building the GTO when I built it so I have radiant floor heat!
Hi Roger, I hope to start on the dash in a few weeks after I get the body work sorted out, it should be a fun challenge.
Starting to spray the SEM high build primer on parts, hope to get the whole body done by the weekend. ?

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus I planned my whole garage around building the GTO when I built it so I have radiant floor heat!

Hi Eric,
Sorry for the delay in responding but I seem to fall off of the forum's new post notification system occasionally. Not sure why.
But glad to hear you have the floor heating system.. much more efficient than my ceiling mounted bull dawg propane unit, but the bull dawg is a huge improvement over a kerosene unit, which I used for years. the fumes are just too much if it's much below 40 degrees.

You are progressing nicely! A lot done since my last post. The flush windows are going to look amazing!

I hope to start the firewall smoothing and the metal work needed for the a/c to non a/c heater box conversion soon. Parting out the old '71 vert has taken a lot of free time but has freed up a lot of garage space (and put a bit into the kitty for the new chassis) allowing me to work all winter on the cutlass so I'm hoping to post some pics of my progress as the winter grinds on.

btw: saw you used the abc firewall smoothie panel earlier in your build thread...thanks for the idea! Do you plan on having heat in your Goat? Or is she going to be competition only? I need to keep the heat since my car will be used for spirited cruising more than competition. Should I use the abc panel then cut holes for the heater box and hoses or forgo the panel and just weld up unneeded holes and clean up with filler? to be honest, I'm better with a welder than body filler... Suggestions?

Looking forward to seeing the body done and lowered onto that piece of art you call a chassis!

[ekmxryda]

Borrowed a friends shrinker / stretcher and made up some filler pieces to close up around the sides of the rear window.



Paper template helped get it close.



Cut-off wheel to trim without changing the shape.



Copper weld through primer is going to shorten my life! Respirator while welding required. Tacked with glass in place, masked and covered to keep it safe from sparks.

[andrewb70]

Eric,

With the stainless trim around the glass, what will go in the gap between the glass and the metal you just installed?

Andrew

[ekmxryda]

Hey Andrew,
I will have an 1/8" gap around the glass that I plan on filling mostly with urethane.
The glass should be flush to the body after I weld in a 1/8" thick X 1/2" wide piece under the window, just like I did for the front.
Plan on using the 5/16" Butyl tape, with a set of retainer clips top and bottom.

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19979&pom=0

[andrewb70]

Hey Andrew,
I will have an 1/8" gap around the glass that I plan on filling mostly with urethane.
The glass should be flush to the body after I weld in a 1/8" thick X 1/2" wide piece under the window, just like I did for the front.
Plan on using the 5/16" Butyl tape, with a set of retainer clips top and bottom.

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...ID=19979&pom=0

Interesting. That will certainly alter the look of the car, although I rather like the stainless trim...LOL

You should check out the past post in my Cougar build. You might be interested in some of those driveline parts...

Andrew

[ekmxryda]

Hi Andrew,
Yeah I have already bookmarked The Driveshaft Shop's website thanks to you, I like the idea of the CV joint at the trans yoke.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com
I'm hoping the flush glass is worth all the effort, its not like I can change it back that easy!

Still fixing the new 1/4's . Not sure if these stampings were worse than the originals, some funny waves on top by the quarter glass seal.
Easier to use the Metal to Metal filler than lead.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=37

[ekmxryda]

Hi Gus,
I am going with a Vintage Air, or maybe a smaller Southern Air kit where everything mounts to the inside of the firewall. Plenty of options to pass the 4 tubes through the firewall, bulkheads grommets etc. if you browse the Vintage Air site you might get inspired. I plan on running them under the fender behind passenger side hood hinge, through the original blower motor hole.
http://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-...ern-air-1.html

Was able to get the body sprayed in the high build epoxy primer.

[joesweeting]

Classic Auto air makes a perfect fit system for a 1969 GTO with electronic controls for a non factory a/c car. I purchased a factory center dash a/c vent housing because I like the look of the factory A/C vent better. I have not purchased the the system yet, I am doing a very mild protouring GTO.

http://www.classicautoair.com/69_GTO...ontiac_AC.html

['71cutlasluvr]

Classic Auto air makes a perfect fit system for a 1969 GTO with electronic controls for a non factory a/c car. I purchased a factory center dash a/c vent housing because I like the look of the factory A/C vent better. I have not purchased the the system yet, I am doing a very mild protouring GTO.

http://www.classicautoair.com/69_GTO...ontiac_AC.html

Good info Joe. Thanks for your input. Much appreciated. I'll check them out too. Hopefully it will translate into an option for my Cutlass.

[ekmxryda]

Classic Auto air makes a perfect fit system for a 1969 GTO with electronic controls for a non factory a/c car. ...
http://www.classicautoair.com/69_GTO...ontiac_AC.html

Thanks Joe, I will check it out.

Gus I have not done a rendering yet, only a real quick photoshop job back on post #59. Maybe when it is finished I will do one!
Not sure on final color but it will be flat black for a while.

Fenders fixed up, now I need to get the hood and nose straightened out

['71cutlasluvr]

Thanks Joe, I will check it out.

Gus I have not done a rendering yet, only a real quick photoshop job back on post #59. Maybe when it is finished I will do one!
Not sure on final color but it will be flat black for a while.

Fenders fixed up, now I need to get the hood and nose straightened out

Eric,
Checked out #59. Very Kewl. My vote is for the flat black as in the drawing. Sure is mean looking!

Well, my progress is not as dramatic, but I have welded back up the one cut I made in the chassis for the ABC mod, plasma cut off the bracing and doing final grinding before touch up paint. Will then reattach all of the hotchkiss suspension I took off earlier in the year so I have a rolling chassis for the body. Once I have winterized my wife and daughters cars (snow tires/wheels..like you say, family always comes first) I can bring the body back into the lift bay on the body cart and start on the firewall mods. Still not sure if I want to go the vintage air route. As nice of a unit it is, it adds complexity and weight (although minimal compare to OEM units) and as I said, I'm a fair weather driver. Don't mind the rain if I get stuck in a summer storm but when it's 90 degrees and 90% humidity, I kinda keep the ride in the garage and enjoy the pool. Just don't have the tolerance anymore for the heat like you young guns. And As much as I enjoy autocross in the Miata, I can't see doing that much during July/August. Sitting in line dripping with sweat waiting for a 55 second blast of fun, then returning to the pits to sweat some more is not my idea of a good time. Although I am not a fan of brutal cold (0 degree windchills) and excessive snow (I drive a lot for work) I don't mind the cold at all. Spring and fall are my fav months for car stuff for that reason. So may just stick with the OEM non a/c controls and chevy heater box I got off of feebay. Only problem is the heater core outlet tubes don't match up with the chevy non a/c heater box so some fab work is a given. The bright side is it will help me hone by fabrication skills before attempting the mini tubs and lower rear quarter panel repairs.

More Good news is my mrs. understands the logic of the pre built chassis, so she's on board, at least in spirit!
It's all good.

You're making great progress Eric. Kudo's.
Gus

['71cutlasluvr]

Hi Eric,
Great idea. Never heard of Southern air. I was looking at vintage air but thought it was a bit too complex for me. Heat is a given but a/c sure would be nice during our HHH summers. But I'm to the point where if it's THAT hot, I just stay by the pool! I look forward to watching you do yours since you are so much closer to that part of your build than me. Thanks for the link.

Primers looking good! Your door gap looks perfect, but I expect nothing less from "Mr. Gusset". I just can't imagine doing all of the work you/I have done are have yet to do without a rotisserie!

btw: Did you ever do a rendering?? If not, what color is she gonna be?? You may have mentioned that earlier in the thread but I missed it.
Keep up the great work!

[andrewb70]

Eric,

Just remember, if you make it too pretty you'll never drive it.

Andrew

['71cutlasluvr]

Eric,

Just remember, if you make it too pretty you'll never drive it.

Andrew

So true Andrew, so true! But I don't think Eric is that kinda guy. He gets down and dirty with his motocross bikes, mud, dirt and all, and I know he has some sort of competition in mind with this build (why else add so many reinforcing bracing/gussets?). I would guess there will be a few rock chips in the paint soon after completion...

[ekmxryda]

Hey Andrew,
Not interested in a show car finish, I want to have a good time with the car when it is on the road. I have sprayed 5 gallons of paint so far on the chassis and body, my only real concern is keeping things from rusting in the future. Like you mentioned too I will be welding on tabs and the roll cage so I will be touching it up as I go.
Gus you nailed it too, I wash my dirt bikes but usually let the rain wash my truck!

Busy weekend, repaired cuts, dents and holes in nose, the Eastwood plastic repair set up fast so it was hard to spread but it sanded out nicely. Fixed the pushed in nose (after the PO's crash) Had to jump behind the center of the nose to push it back out 1/2" nice gap to hood now.




Sprayed rust proofing inside rockers, lower cowl and inside around body mounts. Still cleaning up bondo dust and overspray.

['71cutlasluvr]

Sweet! Lookin' good Eric. Close to color time? Looking forward to seeing it in color (or lack of it with matte black). Thanks for the pics. Keep 'em coming.

Gus