71 Javelin Road Racer Build

[Bulletpruf]

Fellas -

Story starts in October, 2008. I was perusing the local Craigslist ads and saw that there was a 401 equipped 71 Javelin about 5 miles from my house. I've never owned an AMC, but just about everything else ('66-'69 Fairlanes, '66 Vettes, '67-'69 Camaros, '66-'67 SS396 Chevelles, '69-'70 Ram Air III and IV GTO's & Judges, 68 hemi Roadrunner, 71 440 4 sp GTX, etc).

Anyway, the car was a stalled project - - rebuilt 401 (original Z code), fresh TH400 (originally came with a Borg Warner auto), P/S, PDB, tinted glass, AMC 20 w/3.15 open, Canary Yellow with green corduroy interior, gauges, Rim-blo wheel, tilt, space-saver spare, console, A/C, luggage rack, etc. Body was partially disassembled. Interior was partially disassembled, too, with the dash completely apart and wiring was/is a total mess. Suspension was all painted yellow (including springs, control arms, sway bar, tie rods, etc), which I will remedy. Car was not running or driving, but the drivetrain was installed. Came with LOTS of extra parts, too. Best part about the car was the body - it was an original California car and completely rust free. Just had a dent in one of the fenders. Owner was a nice guy, but seemed like he had run out of time and energy on the car and just wanted it gone.

So, I bought the car and ended up selling enough of the spare parts that the car actually paid for itself. Since then, I yanked the drivetrain, disassembled the 401 and brought it to my machine shop for a checkup. I also sourced a close ratio T-10 4 speed to replace the TH400.

Below picture is of the car in California, two owners before me -





More to follow.

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Still sorting out the details of exactly how the car will be built. The engine is already pretty much set, however. It's a 401 with Edelbrock heads (unported), factory forged 1971 401 crank, reconditioned factory rods with ARP bolts, forged TRW 2380F pistons (about 10:1 compression), and a McLeod aluminum flywheel #565100 from Hyatt Racing. Additional oil line has been added to the lifter valley. Cam is a custom solid lifter from Harold Brookshire (UD Harold) with .587/.587 and 255/255 @ .050., 108 LC. Going with an Armando's 8 quart road race oil pan with external line to the pickup. Torker single plane intake. Have a few carbs to choose from; will likely start with a Holley 750. Doug's 1 3/4" headers. Engine should make 450 hp at the flywheel, which is fine by me.

Trans is a close ratio T-10, at least for now. It won't be very good at all from a dead stop with a close ratio trans, aluminum flywheel, and a 3.50 gear, but it's not a drag racer. Upgrade to a different tranny (T56? Tex Racing T101A?) at some point is likely. Using a Lakewood blowproof bell and a Centerforce dual friction clutch.

Rear is currently an AMC 20 with 3.15 open. If I keep that setup, I'll go with Moser axles (the AMC 20 has the dreaded 2 piece axles) and a LSD of some sort. More likely that I'll go with a 9", however. Maybe just with leaf springs for now and step up to a 3 link w/ coil overs later.

Front suspension is stock for now. Freak Ride front suspension is an option, but may start off using all factory components, or perhaps an upgrade to coil overs - http://www.classicone.com/wsc/catalog/amc/amc_per1.htm. Plan to run a close ratio manual steering box. One problem with the front suspension is that the PO painted EVERYTHING yellow, including control arms, sway bar, springs, etc. Really need to pull it apart and paint everything black.

Car has factory disk brakes up front. Might upgrade the pads and see if this will suffice for now. If I start off with the AMC 20, would like to keep the drums out back for now, using upgraded shoes. I don't want to spend $800 on rear disk brakes (http://www.classicone.com/wsc/catalog/amc/amc_per1.htm) because I expect to swap a 9" rear with new brakes.

More to follow.

Thanks,

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Going with manual steering for now; I'm not a small guy at 6'4" and 230, so think I can wrassle it around for a while if necessary.

Plan is to keep the car street legal, but with minimal creature comforts. Would eventually like to run it in NASA's American Iron class, but would also like to keep it legal for as many other classes (SCCA?) as reasonably possible. No real experience with road racing, so need to do some research here.

Am about to move from Northern Virginia to Columbus, GA (Ft Benning) so hope to be racing at Road Atlanta, Barber, etc. in the not too distant future.

Thanks

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

After doing quite a bit of research on fabrication/road racing shops, I decided to go with Piper Motorsports in Sterling, Virginia (www.pipermotorsports.com). Piper is a well-known outfit, no shortage of positive comments on their work, and haven't been able to find anyone who had anything negative to say about them. It's a very professional outfit with a nice shop, too, and fabrication on road racing cars is what they do for a living; not an afterthought.

Piper installed a complete custom cage (to NASA American Iron Specs) in 1.75" x .120 mild steel. They also mounted the Kirkey road race seats and fixed the rear quarter windows in place.

Pics below. Felt kind of bad about bringing the car in there is such a motley state, but the new paint will come after the mechanical work is done.

[Bulletpruf]

Forgot to post a pic of the trunk...

[camaro_fan1]

Why not an Aston Martin DB9 v-12 and Aston Martin suspension on a custom unibody?
http://http://b-rodorcustom.com/gall...A_Project.html

[cobraguy65]

Looks like a nice starting point. I always like the Javelins.

[Mike Holleman]

I do like what you are doing. Are you building for AI vintage or just AI? I run in NASA DE3. Working toward my comp. lic. in my ex Grand Am 98 Firebird. I plan to run it in AI and later AIX. Look forward to following your build and meeting you at a future NASA event.
Mike Holleman

[Bulletpruf]

Why not an Aston Martin DB9 v-12 and Aston Martin suspension on a custom unibody?
http://http://b-rodorcustom.com/gall...A_Project.html

????

[Bulletpruf]

I do like what you are doing. Are you building for AI vintage or just AI? I run in NASA DE3. Working toward my comp. lic. in my ex Grand Am 98 Firebird. I plan to run it in AI and later AIX. Look forward to following your build and meeting you at a future NASA event. Mike Holleman

Mike -

Was initially an AI build, but believe NASA SE has a Vintage AI class. If so, I'd like to try that as well. Engine is probably a bit strong for AI, so I might end up in AIX unless I detune it, add ballast, or build a 304 or 360 w/o the hp and torque that the 401 should have.

Still need to get my competition license as well, so I'll be sorting the car out as I progress through the DE ladder.

Nice Firebird!

Thanks

Scott

[Mike Holleman]

Mike -

Was initially an AI build, but believe NASA SE has a Vintage AI class. If so, I'd like to try that as well. Engine is probably a bit strong for AI, so I might end up in AIX unless I detune it, add ballast, or build a 304 or 360 w/o the hp and torque that the 401 should have.

Still need to get my competition license as well, so I'll be sorting the car out as I progress through the DE ladder.

Nice Firebird!

Thanks

Scott

Scott, My Buddy Darrell George from Atlanta runs a GT350 in AI Vintage, NASA SE. His little 331 makes 485 RWHP. Not sure what he has done about hp to weight. My Firebird is heavier and only makes 400 rwhp. Anyway, love the Javelin. Mike

[Bulletpruf]

A few minor updates.

Engine is assembled. Had to order some custom pushrods from Smith Brothers; longer and stronger than the stock stuff. Going with Doug's headers - 1 3/4". Using Centerforce Dual Friction clutch/pp kit. Got the Torker intake on last night; had to modify the valley pan to fit with the additional oil line in the valley. Have to pull the front cover off to swap out the camshaft Woodruff keys; the ones that I installed were not hardened. Ordered some alloy hardened ones that should arrive today.

Decided to stick with a close ratio T-10 for now (2.23 first gear). May decide to upgrade at a later date.

If all goes well, it will all be bolted together and installed on Thursday. Plan to install engine and trans as one unit. I'm moving next week, so don't think I will have time to get all the wiring, hoses, etc, hooked up so I can break it in before I move to Columbus, Georgia.

Plan to attack the rear suspension next. Current plan is to start off with leaf springs, but maybe ditch the stockers and upgrade to fiberglass leaf springs. A good leaf spring setup can be just as good as a 3 link and a lot more affordable. Also plan to swap out the AMC 20 for a Ford 9", 3.50'ish gear, Detroit TrueTrack diff, 31 spline axles, etc. Will probably order a housing from one of the companies that sells to NASCAR (i.e., Tex Racing) and get a NASCAR take-out center section with lightened and polished gears.

Thanks

Scott

[Payton King]

Cool project. If you are staying with leafs you may want to check out www.fays2.com You can run a watts with the leafs that will help with the tuning. I am going to guess you would have to make your own set-up, but he does supply the parts as well

[Bulletpruf]

Cool project. If you are staying with leafs you may want to check out www.fays2.com You can run a watts with the leafs that will help with the tuning. I am going to guess you would have to make your own set-up, but he does supply the parts as well

Link isn't working for me. Are you sure that's the correct address?

Thanks

Scott

[droptop73]

For a 9" center and gears check out roushyatesparts.com, great deals on "experienced" parts

[Bulletpruf]

For a 9" center and gears check out roushyatesparts.com, great deals on "experienced" parts

Will do!

Thanks,

Scott

[Payton King]

My bad www.fays2.net

[Bulletpruf]

My bad www.fays2.net

Got it!

Thanks,

Scott

[Torquedork]

At least please put the 401 emblem where it should be behind the front side marker and NOT above it on the fender. Looks Stupid.

[Bulletpruf]

Engine and trans are in. Installed together so I didn't have to crawl under the car and do the T-10 bench press.

Definitely wasn't easy; the Armando's pan is a very tight fit on the crossmember. Had to get the angle just right for it to drop down on the motor mounts. Will finish bolting it all up today (trans crossmember, driveshaft, etc) and then get it loaded up and on the trailer.

Once I get to Georgia, I might break the engine in while it's in the engine bay (also have an engine test stand that I can use) but will end up pulling it back out so I can do a decent job of patching all the factory holes in the firewall and painting the engine compartment.

Scott