LSx 1967 Mustang

[DCx]

Some people make it sound like you just buy a $300 LS motor an throw it in there and it makes 700 hp. Looks like it just falls right in, lmao.

all the little odds and ends make these motors not that cost effective. the mustang is a horrible platform that requires either a very expensive front clip and suspension or pricey oem parts like the gto oil pan and car intake swap to make work. since i am running rear steering and no power steering now i need to get a custom alternator only bracket now. more money, more LS problems!

if this was a chevy all i would have needed was a new oil pan for most applications.

[andrewb70]

....since i am running rear steering and no power steering now i need to get a custom alternator only bracket now. more money, more LS problems!

if this was a chevy all i would have needed was a new oil pan for most applications.

Look at the Holley bracket. It puts the alternator up high on the driver's side and can be used without the power steering. You can also shim it and use it with the truck balancer spacing. It isn't super expensive.

Andrew

[DCx]

i will most likely get this bracket. i held my alternator in the same position and it will clear the shock tower.

[DCx]

things have been slow, no progress on the car but my parts pile is growing. i have been a ebay junky lately. finding all sorts of deals.

i picked up these parts over the past month,

LS Brackets - powersteering delete front accessory drive (5.3/6.0 crank spacing) it mimics the F body set up and uses an idler where the power steering pump should be. $165

LS1 automatic radiator - $65
LS1 radiator hoses - $15
69 mustang throttle pedal - cable operated - $20
2001 v6 mustang master cylender - 1" bore - $20
98-2002 camaro fuel pump module - $58
67 mustang new gas tank - $60

plan is to modify the new gas tank with the LS1 fuel pump bucket. vetteworks sells a weld ring that will adopt this to any tank.

http://vetteworksonline.net/ls1_conversion_fuel.htm

[Z06killinSBF]

I hear your pain! I'm glad progress is being made.

[reedld]

First off...love the build! I'd like to do exactly what you are doing someday!

I did the vetteworks kit into my 78 this past spring.....I used a 4th gen pump....works great! I bought a used fuel bucket, but bought a new pump for piece of mind. When I put the new pump in the bucket, I shortened the hoses so I could compress the bucket to the max. My pump mount is recessed almost 2 inches so I did not need to notch/cut the trunk.

[DCx]

First off...love the build! I'd like to do exactly what you are doing someday!

I did the vetteworks kit into my 78 this past spring.....I used a 4th gen pump....works great! I bought a used fuel bucket, but bought a new pump for piece of mind. When I put the new pump in the bucket, I shortened the hoses so I could compress the bucket to the max. My pump mount is recessed almost 2 inches so I did not need to notch/cut the trunk.

i think i found your post about that in nastyz28.... inspiration for sure!

[DCx]

Got my radiator today! Man it's clean. Can't wait to mock it up.

[DCx]

went to my folks house on thanksgivig and laid the radiator in the car. its a tad bit too wide, i will have to cut the frame rails and weld in some angle to make it fit. i ordered a set of radiator isolators from a 93-02 camaro so hopefully i can use those to mount it.

among other things, the camaro fuel pump bucket is too tall to fit in my 67 mustang tank. i will have to cut down the bucket, tubes, and springs to compress it enough to make it fit. It should be easy to mount though. there is a flat strip down the center of the tank wide enough to drill the 3 7/8 hold needed to drop in the pump.

and lastly i was going to order my PSI harness for the engine with my holiday bonus when the thought of a 4l60e popped into my head. I checked with the same yard i got my 5.3 pull out from and they wanted $700 for a 2wd trans. i might get the overdrive i donno yet.

[DCx]

Things have been very hectic around here! nothing to report on about the mustang but i would like to share my fathers xmas gift with you all.

Long ago he was given a junked holley 4150 that was said to be from a big block ford. well i unearthed it from the depths of the garage and looked up its list number. turns out its a service replacement for a 1969 428 cobra jet! SCORE! i attempted to clean and rebuild the carb myself as a gift to my father but i ruined the finish of the carb using some berrymans carb dip. i thought it was a total loss. the original finish melted away and left a sticky mess inside the fuel blows an metering blocks. I ended up taking it to a local carb shop and having it re-dichromed in the original Holley finish, rebuild, base plate resurfaced, new linkage, show quality stage 1 rebuild.

it turned out awesome!









730cf built to stock 428 CJ specs. I opted to have the automatic choke and choke plate removed. it should run nicely on top of his aluminum head/intake 390 big block.

[DCx]

got some time away from the girl friend and the new baby today.

I mocked up the booster (which is broken) and the 2000 V6 mustang master cylinder. It fits like a glove. Just need to make some metric to SAE lines to plumb to the distribution block.

Also found out i can run a curved montecarlo bar. I just have to install it after the throttle body is installed.





I spent the rest of the day notching the frame rails so i could lower the F body radiator into place. what a chore that was making room for the plastic radiator tanks. getting air tools in there to make the cut was a real pain in the butt. I ended up making a rough cut with the blow torch then cleaned them up. I used an old 4x4 1/8 steel tube to box it back in.





I still need to dress the welds a bit and box in the passenger side. after that i need to make some bent steel clamps for the top tank rubber isolators. Found out the F body fans will clear the water pump and i can also run the upper radiator hose with no issues. I need to buy a straight thermostat housing, it will allow me to run the stock F body lower hose.

The stock fuel rail will need the inlet bent upward to clear the coil packs. Forgot that I am using truck coils which sit higher than the car units. I think i will flip the rail 180* and run the fuel line down the passenger side. The drivers side is a bit busy with the master cylinder, throttle cable, and other things craping that area up.

[GrabberGT]

I hate to say it but it looks like it was made to fit in there. Nice job.

[nitroracer]

Does the LS sit further forward than a windsor V8 where you have it mounted? I have manual brakes that I would really like to upgrade in my 68' Fairlane and I bet that same booster and master would bolt into my car.

[DCx]

Does the LS sit further forward than a windsor V8 where you have it mounted? I have manual brakes that I would really like to upgrade in my 68' Fairlane and I bet that same booster and master would bolt into my car.

I can move my motor the way it sits right now. I got s set of motor mount plates with 3 positions. I also know a company that sells slider motor mounts. As far as I can tell my ls1 sits in the hole just as a factory engine would.

My car has a midland booster (almost impossible to get a new one) I plan on having it rebuilt. It provides excellent clearance to the coil packs.

[1970 TT Rustang]

Got some work done on the mustangs exhaust today. I had a set of 98 camaro Z28 manifolds laying around so i figured i would give them a shot since they are mild steel instead of cast iron. After cutting off the huge triangle flange i realized the manifold would fit if i rerouted one tube and made a tri-y design. I used some scrap 1 3/4 tube bends i had and made a fancy connector pipe. I blew a hole in the manifold with a torch and welded it all up. I ran out of wire before i could finish though.







I made room for the spark plugs and made a small notch in the manifold to clear the steering box. Now that its all fitted im not sure if i will convert the car to manual steering or replace the power stuff. If i go power i need a new ram, control valve, and tie rods.

I would worry about exhaust pressure on the valve . The way you cut the header. It will work now but not for long in my opinion. Just a thought

[DCx]

I stopped by my folks house today and quickly mocked up the radiator in the car. I have roughly 6" or so between the apron and the radiator tank. The optima yellow top (D51R) i was researching is only 9-5/16" x 5-1/16" x 8-15/16". it should work perfect for a front mount. I really don't want to trunk mount the battery because the fuel pump will be in the trunk floor. gotta love those mustang gas tanks.

I also got the idea to use a FE big block upper radiator mount to secure the radiator. I will need to sand down some plastic fins on the radiator fans and cut and shorten the bracket but i think i can make it work. Im not going to cut up my dads original bracket, i ordered a repo along with some new rubber mounts.

here is the rough mock up. the bracket sticks out too far. needs to be shortened by an inch or so. i will most likey cut the mounting bracket and flip the part that bolts to the core support upside down to lower the brackets clamps.



here are a few pics of the lower mounts for the radiator. the driver side has a thick rubber pad it rests on and the passenger side has a spike with a rubber bushing. I will weld in some metal tabs drill a hole in one and box the other so the radiator is secure from the bottom.





more pics will come saturday. i hope to at least drill the hole in the fuel tank and get that setup mocked up. I got my hands dirty on way too many side projects. LOL

ALSO! WHAT COLOR SHOULD I PAINT THE ENGINE? FORD BLUE? CHEVY ORANGE? my intake is gray, and i will most likely do the oil pan and the timing cover in the same cast gray color.

[I_make_oil]

I've enjoyed your thread. Excellent work. I have a question. Why didn't you just install a Heidt or some other brand of Mustang 2 front suspension? It would remove the shock towers, have all new suspension and steering components and come with motor mounts? Wouldn't that have been much easier? I'm getting ready to do my '66 and that is what I'm looking at.

[andrewb70]

I've enjoyed your thread. Excellent work. I have a question. Why didn't you just install a Heidt or some other brand of Mustang 2 front suspension? It would remove the shock towers, have all new suspension and steering components and come with motor mounts? Wouldn't that have been much easier? I'm getting ready to do my '66 and that is what I'm looking at.

Because the cost of that is much more than keeping the stock suspension.

Andrew

[I_make_oil]

For the money he has had to spend on engine mounts, repairing stock suspension, exhaust issues and steering? The price of a complete Heidt kit with steering disc brakes and manual steering starts at $2155. He could then add power steering, engine mounts, upgraded brakes etc. How is that more expensive that what he has already done? I'm getting ready to start on my project and this is the way I'm looking to go just because it's all there for much cheaper than if I try to piece it all together not to mention it gets the shock towers out of the engine bay making tons of room. I've seen other brands going on ebay for even cheaper. Am I missing something here?

http://www.heidts.com/part/ifs-for-6...d-64-65-comet/

[Jetfixr320]

Make something like this to cover and protect the tank. Then mount the battery in the trunk.
http://tankarmor.com/index.php?