LSx 1967 Mustang

[andrewb70]

I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...

Andrew

[langleylad]

I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...

Andrew

oh , you will

[DCx]

I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...

Andrew

andrew, the biggest issue i had the was floor cross brace. it takes up too much room and makes the tunnel narrow. i just chopped my right out after adding some subframe connectors.

[DCx]

Decided to go a different direction with my car yet again. So i started toying with the idea of a turbo and found a way to make it work out. Im going to just buy a cheap ebay 76mm turbo and use higher quality parts for the blow off valve and waste gate. here is what i came up with.

I moved my engine forward a bit and was able to use my LS-brackets billet alternator and power steering set up.



Decided to hack up my LS3 manifolds. I bought some 2.5" long radius mild steel schedule 40 elbows from a local pipe supply. cant beat $7 each! i also ordered some mild steel 2.5" v bands and miged my manifolds with .035 wire and a heavy heat setting. My dad and i preheated everything with a torch. Here are the results.













i can also run the manifolds the other way and they will clear the stock steering box if i choose to not run a turbo. Spark plug clearance is awesome with the manifolds facing forward and backward. I plan to run a simple cross over 2-1 pipe and mount the turbo on the pasenger side. Running a 3'' exhaust out of the turbo along side the passenger side valve cover and down behind the motor.

[no go nova]

Lets get back to it keep us updated.

[Hornet LSX]

Just out of curiosity what is the measurement between the shock towers? The reason I'm asking is AMC cars share a similar suspension and always looking at exhaust options to make LS motor work in AMCs. Hornets in particular. I'm thinking you might be onto something with the 351 headers with LS flanges added. I realize it's a moot point now but did you mount the LS flange to a strong flat surface? I have seen the warping problem in other project post and the solution was to strap the flange to a thick flat bar stock or spare cylinder head to keep it from warping when welding. Just a though if you decide to salvage the 351 headers for your build.
Concerning the LS1 VS LS6 intake. The advantage is from 5,500 Rpm + for added HP. Long tube exhaust over LS manifolds will potentially move the torque to lower RPM levels. So some gain in power in the lower RPMs will be a little gain in MPG potential.
Looks like you are getting things worked out. Enjoying following along with your progress.

[andrewb70]

I don't have answers, but I do have a few comments. Hooker makes some really nice, stainless, investment cast flanges:

https://holley.com/products/exhaust/...parts/11876HKR

Also, in all the dyno testing that I have seen, it seems that long tube headers add very little power to any given combination, maybe 4-8%. This of course isn't trivial, but when you consider the hassle of headers, a good set of manifolds makes a lot of sense when space is at a premium.

Andrew

[DCx]

worked on the stang some today. i think it took me longer to find all my tools and organize things than it did to work on the car!

Nothing too fantastic happened. i painstakingly made patches for the drivers side trans tunnel and butt welded them all in place. I also removed the pedals from the car, did some random clean up in the engine compartment, and installed just the trans so i can build the passenger side of the tunnel next time.





i took my car off the lift today and stole my dads old rolling stock. how do you like these old mag wheels? 215's up front and 275's out back.

[andrewb70]

Those wheels look terrible. Sell them to me now!

Andrew

[DCx]

Those wheels look terrible. Sell them to me now!

Andrew

my father adores those wheels! lol

nothing major to report on. I decided to pull the trigger on a DBW setup for my car. i didnt feel like messing with a cable throttle or buying an expensive lokar pedal so i found a 5.3 DBW throttle body, pedal, and tac for a really good deal on ebay. it just got delivered today. i will most likely weld up all the remaining holes in my firewall and install a reinforcement plate to mount the DBW truck pedal to. i am glad the pedal is metal. i will have to cut it and weld it to be even with my brake pedal.

i will post pictures soon. I stated school and have even less time to work on it. all i have been doing is buying parts for it daily.

[andrewb70]

Any updates? Looks like you are going turbo now?

Andrew

[DCx]

Any updates? Looks like you are going turbo now?

Andrew

yup single turbo. I haven't done much to the car lately. I went back to college to work on a second degree and that has been taking up a lot of my time. I have acquired the turbo. i went with a cheap turbo used a lot on LS1 tech. its a 76mm/68mm ON3 performance turbo with t4 housing. I went cheap on it but splurged on the waste gate and blow off. all the accessory parts are turbo smart products.

to make room for the down pipe which will go over the top of the passenger valve cover i had to ditch the factory shock tower braces. Instead i am going to make a "shock bar" much like a strut bar would be like on a modern mustang. i had some 6" steel discs cut with holes in the middle and plan on installing them under the shock caps. I will weld tabs to the circles and run tubing between the shock caps. i will then run tubes with heim joints from the main support to the cowl. i have all the heim joints, i just need the radius tabs and tabs for the main support. im running 3/4" tubing.

other than that, my old man got a champion radiator for his 67 390 fastback. its much more narrow than the Fbody rad i have. I am going to get a similar radiator with LS1 sized outlets and used the factory saddle mounts. it will allow the turbo to sit cocked towards the battery location and still clear the hood.

I acquired a built TH400 for the car that came with a host of problems. it had the wrong tail shaft on it and would not allow my large diameter slip yolk. after removing the tail housing i noticed it was missing the speedo drive gear! among other things the builder and i are not on good terms. i traded him my 4l60e for this piece. lets hope it has what he says it has in it. super hold trans go and and red alto clutches.

[DCx]

just been harvesting parts for the car. i found an old 5'' autometer phantom mechanical speedo from my 69 camaro build and decided to stuff it into an old 67 mustang dash bezel. i used a mustang depot support and a dremel to clearance the back side. turned out great! i won a 5'' phantom tach and 2-1/16 fuel gauge on ebay for super cheap. I still need to buy the temp and oil pressure gauges. Since these are older around the dial lighting i will get some 360* LED bulbs in either green or red for the dash.

[1bad68cat]

just been harvesting parts for the car. i found an old 5'' autometer phantom mechanical speedo from my 69 camaro build and decided to stuff it into an old 67 mustang dash bezel. i used a mustang depot support and a dremel to clearance the back side. turned out great! i won a 5'' phantom tach and 2-1/16 fuel gauge on ebay for super cheap. I still need to buy the temp and oil pressure gauges. Since these are older around the dial lighting i will get some 360* LED bulbs in either green or red for the dash.

DCx, when did you purchase your gauge support? The last time I bought one from Mustang Depot, it was a plastic POS that did not fit that I had to return. Are they selling aluminum ones now?

Robert

[DCx]

DCx, when did you purchase your gauge support? The last time I bought one from Mustang Depot, it was a plastic POS that did not fit that I had to return. Are they selling aluminum ones now?

Robert

They sure are. This piece fits really nice. All of the screw holes line up perfectly after some of the platic was trimmed. They supply some PVC pipe spacers that slide over the body of the large gauges so the aluminum panel fits snug. The smaller gauges have abs cutouts that help center them. I am waiting on the tach and a 2-1/6 fuel gauge i won on ebay to arrive. i will document the install of the smaller gauges soon. I wanted to have the entire dash bezel mocked up before i order a new one.

[jaybee]

I love the "make it work" approach you're taking to this project.

[langleylad]

Can I ask for a favour ? could you please measure the center to center distance between the speedo and tach . I'm building a 68 Cougar and the Mustang bezel and Cougar are almost identical .

[DCx]

Can I ask for a favour ? could you please measure the center to center distance between the speedo and tach . I'm building a 68 Cougar and the Mustang bezel and Cougar are almost identical .

the center to center is roughly 8" for the speedo and tach.

[langleylad]

Thanks , it's approx. 7 1/2" on the Cougar bezel so I'm sure the Mustang is the same . The Cougar bezel only has locations for the speedo , tach and one small area between the two . Thanks again .

[DCx]

Thanks , it's approx. 7 1/2" on the Cougar bezel so I'm sure the Mustang is the same . The Cougar bezel only has locations for the speedo , tach and one small area between the two . Thanks again .

i measured the aluminum gauge support so it is most likely has a larger opening than the plastic bezel. i think with a little cutting you could possibly use it on the cougar dash.