LSx 1967 Mustang

[no go nova]

Nice project keep up the good work

[DCx]

Taking it down to bare metal is a wise move.

seriously! i found bondo directly over the factory gold paint. the bondo that was on bare steel had zero sand scratches.

[Jetfixr320]

I've been using Matrix paint products on my Falcon. I'm new to paint and bodywork, but happy with the results so far. And cheaper then PPG Deltron except for the Basecoat.

Used Evercoat Rage extreme filler and their tow part finish filler.

Try the 3M Roloc wheels. The Green ones. I used them on parts of my car after getting tired of paint stripper. Kinda wish I used them the whole time. Except for the dust all over my garage. They also have bigger ones for a angle grinder.

[DCx]

I've been using Matrix paint products on my Falcon. I'm new to paint and bodywork, but happy with the results so far. And cheaper then PPG Deltron except for the Basecoat.

Used Evercoat Rage extreme filler and their tow part finish filler.

Try the 3M Roloc wheels. The Green ones. I used them on parts of my car after getting tired of paint stripper. Kinda wish I used them the whole time. Except for the dust all over my garage. They also have bigger ones for a angle grinder.

thanks for the tip. i have been using poly carbide abrasive wheels on my 4.5" grinder and 2''on my die grinder. they tear through the bondo easily but kinda mar up the metal at bit when you really dig in.

here is a before and after of my trunk lid.





the leopard spots look worse in the photo than they really are. I used chemical stripper to take down the blue/purple/grey paint. then DA sanded the rest down to the factory red oxide primer. from there i coated it in paint stripper and scrubbed it clean using a scotch bright pad. i will go over it again with 80 grit in a DA before i primer it. The trunk deck is now sleeping in my parents spare bed room.

[Jetfixr320]

Before I tried the 3M Rolocs, I was using paint stripper from Lowes to get through two layers of paint, but it wouldn't do much to the factory red primer. I used 80G on a DA to remove the primer.

The Rolocs go through all of it. And not worse then 80g on the steel.

Used a varied selection of sanders and wheels to get into the tight radius of doors and jams.

[DCx]

Not much to update on. Ive been an ebay junky lately. Ive purchased all the rare early 67 manual steering parts need to switch over from power. I found out my 67 steering box has the spear of death long shaft and a unique 1" sector shaft like the 65/66 cars used. My year used a unique manual pitman arm. I scored a manual long shaft gear box with pitman from ebay along with a new manual idler and original manual center link. Also scored a master body bolt kit for about 1/2 retail price.

I labored away today and stripped one of the fenders to metal. It had the same amount of unecessary filler and layers of paint. I used my electric orbital sander with 60 and 40 paper to blast through the layers of paint. I will most likely hang the fenders and door before I do my filler work.

I also found out I cannot run the truck alternator bracket. It put the alternator up about an inch above the finder. Lol. I'm going to buy an F body style low alternator only bracket and idler setup from LSbrackets. Bummer it's $150 but it's spaced out correctly for the truck crank and around the same price for used F body parts on eBay.

More pics to come soon.

[MSTSFabbed]

Just went through all the same crap with early year 67 long shaft box. I replaced the drag link and inner and outer tie rods a few years back. Just recently realized my pitman arm ball joint is a huge contributor to slop in the wheel. I had just assumed it was wear in the gear mesh. Went through a minor ordeal to source a replacement and now it's tighter but sticks. The steering will "pop" and suddenly make a small turn in or out on corner entry and exit. Seriously annoying and maybe a little dangerous.

I know you just bought all the stuff, but it's honestly one of the worst combos of parts you can keep on these cars! It's unsafe, worn out, hard to find good replacements for, and near impossible to find new stuff. I don't mean to be a Debby downer, but swap to the rag joint later year style, swap the column and get all new stuff if you really want to stick with manual. Or for about less than double that cost say screw it and get a manual rack. This is just my opinion from somebody that wishes they didn't have that system!!

[hookemdevils22]

Amen. Terrible, terrible system. Ford really did like to make things difficult for hot rodders.

[DCx]

its been months since i have touched the car. Found out my girlfriend was pregnant a few months back and have been spending alllllllll of my money fixing things around the house and getting ready for the baby.

i have since put the car on hold. in the meantime i have added over 500sqft of concrete to my backyard and side of house, added new electrical fixtures and ceiling fans, installed new laminate floors, trim, and paint in the kids room, and bought a crib and dresser.

hope that keeps her happy for a while!

i did score some cheap ls1 water pump spacers so i can run the ls1 pump with a truck crank pulley. they have a drilled fitting to run the steam like into them.

[Z06killinSBF]

Congrats on the upcoming baby! They tend to put less important things (car hobbies) on hold.

[DCx]

Feeling very left out lately I decided to order a few parts for the car. I have a new 6.0 style truck flexplate coming in the mail. It includes the flexplate, crank spacer, and bolts all for $65 new. It cost less then the gm spacer and bolts! It will allow me to run a th400 converter with the 11.5 bolt spacing without any modifications. Aside from that I'm going to hit up the junk yard for a 2000+ v6 mustang master cylinder and I need to score the drive shaft companion flange for my 8.8 rear. I have an old th400 drive shaft in my garage from my 69 camaro about 10 years ago. Pretty sure the shaft is too short for my mustang tho, but the u joints are new and the slip yolk is correct for the th400.

[DCx]

got the flexplate in the mail today

[andrewb70]

How does the stock starter engage the flexplate with the spacer?

Andrew

[DCx]

How does the stock starter engage the flexplate with the spacer?

Andrew

no difference. when you use a flat flex plate like above the spacer goes directly on the crank. with a stock ls1 of 5.3 curved flex plate the spacer goes on after the flex plate. the spacer provides support for the converter hub. if you lay a flat flex plate with the spacer next to a curved one the starter ring gear is at the same height.

i opted to go this route because the curved flex plates are set up for the smaller 10.75 th350 torque converter bolt circle and require ovaling the holes to make the converter bolt up. this is a direct bolt on for a large bolt circle th400 converter.

im looking at a mild 2500 stall 10'' converter from jegs.

[andrewb70]

no difference. when you use a flat flex plate like above the spacer goes directly on the crank. with a stock ls1 of 5.3 curved flex plate the spacer goes on after the flex plate. the spacer provides support for the converter hub. if you lay a flat flex plate with the spacer next to a curved one the starter ring gear is at the same height.

i opted to go this route because the curved flex plates are set up for the smaller 10.75 th350 torque converter bolt circle and require ovaling the holes to make the converter bolt up. this is a direct bolt on for a large bolt circle th400 converter.

im looking at a mild 2500 stall 10'' converter from jegs.

Gotcha...so the flex plate is specifically designed to keep the ring gear at the same plane...

Andrew

[DCx]

i found a great deal on a ls6 vented valley cover and the proper hose that connects to the throttle body. from what i understand the part number for the valley cover i have it an 04+ design that does not require an external pcv valve like most used when hacking up their stock ls1 pcv system. I may order a catch can for it.

other than that i am waiting to hear back from dirty dingo motor sports on the development of an alternator bracket that mimics the ls1 camaros but is spaced for the 5.3 balancer. i am also considering power steering again... lol

[DCx]

decided to see just how bad my power steering control valve was... disassembly was a total pain in the ass. with the guidance of a youtube video i accomplished the task. i think my valve is shot! its most likely only good for parts. The previous owner really neglected the poor car. Every inch of the valve is pitted and rusty. the original seals were rock hard and everything was seized. i had to pry the bronze ball stud bushing out, it was stuck, and my spool valve needed to be tapped out with a screw driver and hammer. after a very long soak in super clean then purple power i scrubbed the hell out of everything with a wire brush only to find pitted and rusty springs, spacers, and bolts. even the aluminum flare tube seats are smashed and grooved. I can get a complete rebuild kit, new spool valve, and tube seats but then i would have over $120 invested in the damn thing. I contacted a reputable rebuilder from ebay and other mustang forums and he wanted $190 to exchange mine out, thats with the core deducted.. so a new control valve and ram less the hoses will set me back $300... or i could just bolt on that manual pitman arm and center link and call it a day!!





here is some good new tho. i received my ls6 vented valley and pcv hose! it even came with a new gasket and bolts. here it is next to my ls1 intake (previous owner painted it) and my brand new fresh from the box cable operated truck throttle body. i got it super ultra dirt cheap on ebay. its the same size as a camaros.

[andrewb70]

I would go manual steering and call it a day...LOL

Andrew

[Bossed]

Mustang with LS 5.3 = Angry ford fans LOL i love it

What do you love about angry Ford fans?

[Bossed]

Some people make it sound like you just buy a $300 LS motor an throw it in there and it makes 700 hp. Looks like it just falls right in, lmao.