'66 Pontiac Resto-Mod Update

[rockytopper]

No worries. Everyone should have to pay through the nose and struggle with this paint - I mean enjoy this paint like I have.

BTW, the paint color is Maaco Red #2. It comes in 12oz spray cans.

Sweet sense it is a tri coat color I guess it must come in 3 seperate cans. I used a dual coat system on my frame and fire wall. It came in 2 seperate cans. You can see the them in this photo.

[wmhjr]

Sweet sense it is a tri coat color I guess it must come in 3 seperate cans. I used a dual coat system on my frame and fire wall. It came in 2 seperate cans. You can see the them in this photo.

Nah, for the mid coat you just use the 2nd can but don't shake it

[Jim Nilsen]

Totally Awesome


That is more than words can really describe when the sun hits it. It is the kind of reaction on the surface that made candy colors one of my favorites for a custom car and this rivals it and more.

Now that it saw sunlight the tires will be ready to roll soon.

How much longer before the 1st drive?

Now just don't start tearing it back apart somewhere until you drive it and find out how many other things you might find.

If it can drive and it has plates & insurance, at least go around the block or up and down the road in front of the house. It's a moment you will remember forever. Take pics and show us more when you can get out and start it up and go.

You did a great job and it shows.

[wmhjr]

Thanks, Jim. I'm pretty close to driving it around the block. A few more weeks I think. I'm not terribly anxious yet because there's still tons of salt on the roads and my driveway looks like a mud trail. I don't mind the car getting dirty, but I really don't want any salt or mud.

I put in the new sending unit and remounted the fuel tank this past weekend - but then spent some time working on my trailer. Didn't get much done other than that. Here's pretty much what I need to do.

1) Finish wiring. I'm REAL close to being done. A few more grounds to attach, I need to make my coil wires, fix a couple plug wires, and a few connections plus put in a few bulbs. I hope to be done with that stuff by the end of next weekend or the Saturday after.

2) I'm waiting on clutch/brake pedals from a sponsor here. Then I need to bleed/adjust hydro clutch and brake.

3) I need to correct some minor issues with throttle linkage.

4) Need to top off with fluids, then just check for general stuff. Then start it and check for leaks.

After that, I still have a few things to do. Front end alignment, convertible top cover put on, adjust pinion angle, some work on the hood safety catch, install a radiator overflow, just minor stuff.

I also then need to spend a little tlime on my fuel delivery. Problem is a hood clearance issue with a reasonable air cleaner. Currently can't use a drop base cleaner because of the regulator and bracketry. I've got some ideas as to what I want to do, but I'm going to mess with that AFTER I have the engine running properly and the larger issues sorted out. A quick trip around the block without an air cleaner won't kill the motor.

Not really a bad list considering. My largest worries are really leaks, bleeding and adjusting the clutch and brake, and the unknown. I've tried to account for issues but you just never know.

[crustysack]

that car is beautiful nice job

[wmhjr]

Thanks, appreciate it.

[wmhjr]

Now that it saw sunlight the tires will be ready to roll soon.

Hey Jim - BTW - I was thinking of you while I was pushing this thing out of the shop. I was thinking of you more while I was trying to push it back in

[Jim Nilsen]

Hey Jim - BTW - I was thinking of you while I was pushing this thing out of the shop. I was thinking of you more while I was trying to push it back in

It's the thought that counts they say.lol

When my clutch went out and the car was 50ft from the door and I started to push the car into the garage, it got really hard to move up hill. I thought for a few minutes and then remembered Dan Gurney and the famous LeMans move of using the starter to go forward. It's amazing how well it worked. When the car tried to start up the wife said it jumped like a frog into the garage. I turned it off and hit the brakes and it planted itself right inside the door nicely.

The weather should be going in your favor soon to clear off the roads and the higher temps are on the way.

It will be good to hear you talk about how well it runs. The leaks and other worries will go away very soon. It is a wonder as to what will work flawlessly and what causes you problems. I was sure surprised as to what arised for me.

Getting it running before finishing the details was a good and a bad thing for me. It has slowed down the progress to finish other things but I haven't had to remove them to do work either so what can a guy do?

There has already been a guy driving around with the top down in a Mustang here in Rockford so it has to be moving your way soon.

I will be thinking of you getting out and driving so the good vibes are out there for you !!!!

[wmhjr]

OK, an update. Things have been really busy lately so not as much time available for the car. But...

Rear fuel plumbing is (I think) done. I'm not sure I like the position of the 100 micron prefilter, but I now have the 8AN fitting based sending unit installed, 8AN braided line going to a 4AN reducer to the vent line, and 8AN to the 100 micron prefilter to 8AN supply line forward (all braided, AN fittings, hard lines are all stainless. Though I have not started the motor, I've turned it over a good bit (another story) and I've got fuel delivery to the carb with no leaks.

All grounds save one are done. All lights (except for a couple gauge issues) work properly. Headlights, brakes, markers, turn signals, hazard, courtesy.

Starter with remote solenoid properly wired. Starter engages perfectly. No problems at all.

Had a devil of a time with plug and coil wires. When moving the car around months ago, the set screws in the steering column were sticking out (column was coming in and out pretty often for a little while). When turning the wheel, a couple times the set screws grabbed a couple plug wires and pulled the wires out of the boots. So I then tested some wires - supposed to be about 40-50ohms/foot resistance. Had a heck of a time. Several wires seemed to be bad, so had to redo some of them.

All fluids topped off.

Car won't start :bsjerk:

Turns out that I think we wired the MSD 6AL2 ignition a little off. I'm not getting any action on the status light of the ignition box. I traced the wires, and removed them - we're going to try maybe tonight to test our theory. Hopefully that's all the problem will be.

(Still) waiting for clutch and brake pedals so that they can be mounted, and I can bleed both of those systems.

My volt gauge is not lighting up for some reason.

Line lock needs finished wiring.

Fuel pressure and oil temp gauge wiring needs completed.

Rear speaker wiring needs completed.

Even with a new plastic oil pan plug seal, the plug is still leaking just a little. Is there such a thing as a Neoprene or rubber type "washer" gasket?

Getting closer.

[Jim Nilsen]

OK, an update. Things have been really busy lately so not as much time available for the car. But...

Rear fuel plumbing is (I think) done. I'm not sure I like the position of the 100 micron prefilter, but I now have the 8AN fitting based sending unit installed, 8AN braided line going to a 4AN reducer to the vent line, and 8AN to the 100 micron prefilter to 8AN supply line forward (all braided, AN fittings, hard lines are all stainless. Though I have not started the motor, I've turned it over a good bit (another story) and I've got fuel delivery to the carb with no leaks.

All grounds save one are done. All lights (except for a couple gauge issues) work properly. Headlights, brakes, markers, turn signals, hazard, courtesy.

Starter with remote solenoid properly wired. Starter engages perfectly. No problems at all.

Had a devil of a time with plug and coil wires. When moving the car around months ago, the set screws in the steering column were sticking out (column was coming in and out pretty often for a little while). When turning the wheel, a couple times the set screws grabbed a couple plug wires and pulled the wires out of the boots. So I then tested some wires - supposed to be about 40-50ohms/foot resistance. Had a heck of a time. Several wires seemed to be bad, so had to redo some of them.

All fluids topped off.

Car won't start :bsjerk:

Turns out that I think we wired the MSD 6AL2 ignition a little off. I'm not getting any action on the status light of the ignition box. I traced the wires, and removed them - we're going to try maybe tonight to test our theory. Hopefully that's all the problem will be.

(Still) waiting for clutch and brake pedals so that they can be mounted, and I can bleed both of those systems.

My volt gauge is not lighting up for some reason.

Line lock needs finished wiring.

Fuel pressure and oil temp gauge wiring needs completed.

Rear speaker wiring needs completed.

Even with a new plastic oil pan plug seal, the plug is still leaking just a little. Is there such a thing as a Neoprene or rubber type "washer" gasket?

Getting closer.

Sounds like you will be going soon. Don't let the little stuff get to you. I am still fighting with little stuff but you can drive with most of it to find more little stuff.lol.

You could get one of those drain plugs that you don't remove that has a better seal. There are several brands of them and can't remember the name of one of them but they might work for you.

I like the Taylor wires I have and so far no problems.

I am looking forward to hearing it run and seeing you smile with the top down !!!!!!

[wmhjr]

Whoo-Hooo!!!!!! It's Alive!

On the 6AL2 ignition, I had traced and pulled heavy red (primary power supply) and the other red wire (switched source). We then tried a variety of things, but could never get the box energized both during cranking and when the ignition is in the "run" position. Turns out that we had thought the switch itself was setup differently, but after more closely looking at the wiring diagram we realized that GM actually effectively "jumped" IGN1 and IGN2 allowing the circuit to be energized both during crank and run. Once we figured that out, we temporarily connected that way, and....

Pure Bliss. The motor fired right up, and (with no choke) smoothed out in about 20 seconds. Had to adjust the idle up slightly but it ran smooth and clean. Nice little nasty idle, and after warming up it revved REAL quick and smooth. It was in my shop with the door open so it was a little louder than it will be in reality, but it's definitely not grandmas car. I have a couple small leaks to take care of but nothing of significance.

Later, I realized that even with the doors closed, the courtesy lights (under dash and below rear armrests) were staying on. Traced all kinds of wires, and then I thought to check the rear armrest housings. Apparently, though new replacements, the quality aspect of manufacturing was lost. The socket was grounding out due to an internal wire not being straight. That created a ground for the entire circuit, powering all of the courtesy lights on. I fixed it, and all is well.

All in all, great night. It was REALLY good to hear that motor finally running IN the car and through the new exhaust. I won't need to bother with a stereo too much, as it's unlikely I'll be able to hear much of it with the motor running!

[Jim Nilsen]

Congratulations, it sounds like you are happy about it so far and it won't be long before the first drive.

Get your plates and insurance going if you haven't, it took me 2 weeks to get mine all straightened out and I thought it would have been a phone call and payment away.

Let's see a pic of that BIG SMILE !!!!

[wmhjr]

Hey Jim,

Insurance is already taken care of. Plates are another story. I was originally planning to put antique plates on it. One time registration and no state inspection. But, unfortunately PENNDOT says "maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications."

That means I needed to wait until I had the convertible top put on (frame and everything is done, but fabric isn't on it yet), probably remove my brake calipers, put on steel wheels and hub caps (yes, they will return the app if it has aftermarket wheels) and take photos. It's a real PITA. Same thing for "Classic" plates. But I'm now hearing that some municipality police are stopping vehicles with antique or classic plates, and if they aren't completely stock, they're issuing tickets and sometimes impounding the cars. So now I may elect to just put regular plates on it and get it inspected once a year.

For car hobbyists, PA just plain sucks. There's another option - "collectable" plates, but then they want every receipt - and if you bought something out of state they charge you sales tax for any such parts during the registration - plus they say "In addition, the vehicle must primarily be used for show and must appear to be in “show” condition in the photographs submitted with the application"

[wmhjr]

Well, this sucks. Had hoped to finish wiring this weekend. Unfortunately, a strong storm pushed through yesterday late afternoon and we've been without power for 27 hours so far, and are being told that we can "hope" to have power restored by 4pm on Monday. An entire weekend wasted. No power means no lights, no nothing. To add insult to injury, the temp dropped into the 40s so I can't even keep the garage doors open because the house chills down. How is it that power would have to drop on a Friday afternoon and stay out through the weekend only to maybe come back so I can go to work?

[dipren443]

Hey Jim,

Insurance is already taken care of. Plates are another story. I was originally planning to put antique plates on it. One time registration and no state inspection. But, unfortunately PENNDOT says "maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications."

That means I needed to wait until I had the convertible top put on (frame and everything is done, but fabric isn't on it yet), probably remove my brake calipers, put on steel wheels and hub caps (yes, they will return the app if it has aftermarket wheels) and take photos. It's a real PITA. Same thing for "Classic" plates. But I'm now hearing that some municipality police are stopping vehicles with antique or classic plates, and if they aren't completely stock, they're issuing tickets and sometimes impounding the cars. So now I may elect to just put regular plates on it and get it inspected once a year.

For car hobbyists, PA just plain sucks. There's another option - "collectable" plates, but then they want every receipt - and if you bought something out of state they charge you sales tax for any such parts during the registration - plus they say "In addition, the vehicle must primarily be used for show and must appear to be in “show” condition in the photographs submitted with the application"

I am considering running PVGP plates on my car... Just a thought.

[wmhjr]

I am considering running PVGP plates on my car... Just a thought.

If you're talking about the "Vintage Grand Prix" specialty plate, it's just really just a personalized regular plate. It is effectively exactly the same as any other plate on any brand new car you would purchase. Still annual registration, annual safety inspection. Same as if you got a college alumni plate, or whatever other personalized plate you want. I already pay well more than my share to Penndot (3 cars, truck, van, motorcycle) and was hoping to not have to have an annual registration fee and annual state inspection. Plus, I really don't like the idea of some goof crawling around the car for a safety inspection. The car will always be in top notch condition and most inspection stations won't even have a clue how to deal with the Wilwood brakes, calipers, rotors, and the suspension.

Hard to say which way I'll go but I need to decide soon - at least if we ever get power back on. Going on 2 days without power now. Another lost weekend of working on the car.

[ryeguy2006a]

nice looking car. Love the Pontiac's

[dipren443]

If you're talking about the "Vintage Grand Prix" specialty plate, it's just really just a personalized regular plate. It is effectively exactly the same as any other plate on any brand new car you would purchase. Still annual registration, annual safety inspection. Same as if you got a college alumni plate, or whatever other personalized plate you want. I already pay well more than my share to Penndot (3 cars, truck, van, motorcycle) and was hoping to not have to have an annual registration fee and annual state inspection. Plus, I really don't like the idea of some goof crawling around the car for a safety inspection. The car will always be in top notch condition and most inspection stations won't even have a clue how to deal with the Wilwood brakes, calipers, rotors, and the suspension.

Hard to say which way I'll go but I need to decide soon - at least if we ever get power back on. Going on 2 days without power now. Another lost weekend of working on the car.

I am aware, I just don't want to adhere to the limitations a classic or antique plate enforce upon you. I am cheating right now, so it isn't an issue for me, at least for a while.

[Jim Nilsen]

If you're talking about the "Vintage Grand Prix" specialty plate, it's just really just a personalized regular plate. It is effectively exactly the same as any other plate on any brand new car you would purchase. Still annual registration, annual safety inspection. Same as if you got a college alumni plate, or whatever other personalized plate you want. I already pay well more than my share to Penndot (3 cars, truck, van, motorcycle) and was hoping to not have to have an annual registration fee and annual state inspection. Plus, I really don't like the idea of some goof crawling around the car for a safety inspection. The car will always be in top notch condition and most inspection stations won't even have a clue how to deal with the Wilwood brakes, calipers, rotors, and the suspension.

Hard to say which way I'll go but I need to decide soon - at least if we ever get power back on. Going on 2 days without power now. Another lost weekend of working on the car.

No power really sucks for that long, I can remember a 72 hr. outage that seemed forever. We were the last people on the grid to get power up and always are, heck they shut us off even when we do have power still so they can work on the ones who don't have it.

I really wouldn't know how to cope with the crap in your state. It seems as though you will have to live with the inspections or never really get to drive your car like you want to without a hassle form the creeps in charge.

You might just want to check to see what they will do if you get no plates at all? Sometimes the crime is less costly than the permission,lol. If it wasn't for having to be legal to have insurance we could all just pay as we get pulled over and overload the system.

I will say it for you, PA. SUCKS the big one! Vote them all out.

[wmhjr]

Well, power came back on almost exactly 48 hours after losing it - just in time to watch the Penguins beat Ottawa in game 3. It was a complete loss as a weekend. I've got somebody stopping over hopefully this evening and we're going to check a few things and prep for brake and clutch bleeding (still waiting on pedals).