'66 Pontiac Resto-Mod Update

[ccracin]

Glad to see you are moving forward with the project. Is the car at Jeff's or your place? Can't wait to see it.



Sorry, Had to do it!



Chad

[wmhjr]

Nice, Chad!

The car is at Jeffs. Since he's only about 3 miles from me, it was a no brainer. I've got no tubing tools (bender, etc), my MIG welder is only a small unit, and I've got no TIG welder. Plus, Jeff is clearly the boss. I'm just the advisor and unskilled labor

It also gave me room in my shop to put in a new compressor, air delivery system, and do some general reorganization. It's NICE never ever ever running out of air. 34cfm baby!

[wmhjr]

Brought the car home today. First I threw the DD up on the lift and rotated tires - did I say how much I love having a lift?

Anyway, both seats are installed, and the bars are in. I need to take them back out tomorrow and drop them and a few minor parts off for powdercoating. Carpet needs to be trimmed and rear seats re-installed.

Next problem seems to be my AWOL Wilwood 14" brakes. It seems that Wilwood is no longer in the business of manufacturing brake systems. Just advertising them. This is ridiculous. One delay after another. There is now zero possibility of me making the first local Autox session to get a little seat time. And it's not a vendor issue - it is clearly a Wilwood issue. Talked directly to them. I've got to say, they have seriously damaged their reputation with me at this point.

Also looking at portable alignment setups, like Fastrax. I need to do some self educating. I'd be real interested in talking to anyone that's using the SPC adjustable uppers and has used Fastrax or something similar.

I'll try to post a couple pics tomorrow.

[RobertGP]

love 66s !

[wmhjr]

Update as of March 29th....

Well, the Wilwood 14" brakes FINALLY came in. I got home late last night so I didn't open the boxes to inventory. Hopefully nothing will be missing. The last Wilwood kit I got was missing some misc items. That's a job for tonight or tomorrow night depending on how the work schedule goes.

The rollbar assembly is at the powdercoater. I'm to call today to get a status- it may be done. Just semi-gloss black.

Here is a pic of the flooor mount for the main hoop... Obviously I still need to finish it up/paint it.



Arizen seats installed - don't mind the dirt....




I'm "hoping" that this weekend I'll have the floor mounts painted, the rollbar and under-body support brackets back from the powdercoater and put back in, the parking brake connected, the carpet back in and the new front brakes on.

We'll see. This weekend is the first local Autox so I'm wasting time.

[wmhjr]

Update as of April 24th:

Floor mount brackets painted. Roll bar and brackets powdercoated. Front brakes installed and bleed. New clutch linkage (longer hex shaft) installed and adjusted. Clayton Machien Works Pedals installed and (though untested) seem very nice. Still have to adjust brake switch. Parking brake connected but not adjusted. Fixed one instrument gauge light that was not properly working, and connected cig light power source in dash. Installed bolt in Varishock double adjustable shocks front and rear. Removed rear Spohn 1" sway bar in preparation for installing Hellwig tubular adjustable rear sway bar - which is due to arrive tomorrow (tuesday). Replaced "short" valve stems with 90 deg valve stems due to the tips of the stems touching the front/rear of the 6R Brake Calipers.



Top of Parking brake bracket I made:


Bottom of bracket:


Bracket installed:


Varishocks are in:


What's left?

Slight leak in hose end going from the Canton Racing cannister oil filter I have mounted under the car, back to the engine:


Replace a few pieces of Luxury Liner around the floor mounts for the roll bar, put the carpet back in place and put the roll bar back in.

Install the new rear sway bar.

Fix a very small leak in the lower radiator hose - probably never tightened it since putting the engine back in.

Install the G-Force 6 point harnesses and bolt the seats back in.

Play with the alignment.

Clean the car.

Get a 2 1/2lb extinguisher - I currently carry a 1lb Halguard unit which isn't enough for Motor State, etc.

Decide what I'm going to do about tow hooks.

[wmhjr]

Update as of yesterday - May 1 2011:

Pretty much installed the new Hellwig sway bar. I really like the bar a lot. However, as it turns out the front upper end link brackets are in exactly the same location where I have very nice, non-stock style exhaust hangers on both sides. No compliants - I just need to bend the mount bars coming from the rear of the Spintech mufflers. Right now they angle 45 deg up and toward the outside of the car. I need to change the angle to about 45 degrees toward the inside of the car, and then there seems to be room to drill and mount them there. For the bar itself, the only thing remaining is to get the car down off the lift and support the rear end to get proper ride height to set the adjustment on the lower end links. One point - on the drivers side there sure isn't much room. I have 2 stainless fuel lines (supply and return), and a brake line, right next to and above where the upper end link bracket goes. No clearance. The only way to drill that upper hole in my car without ripping the rear end out is really to use an angle drill with a stepped bit - from the back. I made a pattern based off the bracket, aligned it using the lower hole, marked the center of the upper hole (from the back), drilled a small pilot hole with a short bit on my pneumatic angle drill, and then used a short stepped drill to get it where I needed it. It was really no problem doing it that way, but if you install one of these I'd say think about that clearance - you may need similar equipment. What did we ever used to do before having those stepped drill bits?

I "think" I solved the slightly oil leak. For sure there was a problem that I resovled - I just need to wait and see if it totally fixes the issue. The 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting on the oil canister had a distored -AN seating surface and some gouges. Don't know how that got there, but I replaced that fitting. We'll see if it still leaks after I fire the car back up. If that doesn't fix it, then I need to replace the hose end on that section. I have a spare just in case.

I ordered 2 pieces of plexiglass and 2 pieces of Lexan (18" square each). I'm going to build a pair of "turn plates" later this week. The Longacre alignment tool w/spindle adapter for my spindles is enroute.

Started to adjust the parking brakes. Not much fun there. That's going to take a lot more attention.

[PonchoJohn]

Just thought I'd pop in and say,"Gosh, I LOVE this car!"

[wmhjr]

Thanks John. If you ever get over here on the other side of the country don't be shy. It'll be at Heidts and Motor State as well as RTTH. I know that's a long way for you but it's always great to meet now pontiac guys.

[wmhjr]

OK folks, it's been a while. I won't be putting pics here on this post - I'll get to that later. However, here's a general synopsis of the trials and tribulations.

Got things together and went to Motor State. Awesome event, and had a great time. HOWEVER I had a few issues. First of all, I've been using a Saginaw P-Pump with integral reservoir. I won't go into all the issues I had with Russell fittings (pure crap quality that caused me untold amounts of grief) but I replaced all the Russell stuff and eliminated leaks - until I got to the track. At which time I superheated the fluid and sprayed it out the cap seals. Lots of fun.

I also discovered I still had an oil leak "somewhere in the vicinity of" my adapter plate/engine block. It's hidden behind the headers for the most part, and is almost impossible to deal with unless you get the car off the ground.

I've got Brake Knockback issues. At Gingerman, I found I needed a "setup stab" of the brakes before having really strong brakes. While my track and autox times were acceptable all things considered, I was not able to go as deep as I'd like, and had to be a bit more cautious on the autox. I'd say it cost me a minimum of a second or so on the road course, and probably at least half a second on the autox at a minimum.

Water temps were fine, but oil temp climbed at Gingerman. Not terrible, but enough for me to take notice.

The 90 degree valve stems on my front wheels - mounted on the inside - are useless on the track. I was not able to really monitor air pressure, and it cost me. There was just no way to get to the valve stem without removing the wheel.

All in all, a great time at Motor State with lots of learning involved.

[wmhjr]

So, came back from motor state with some issues to deal with. First of all, the power steering.

I've grown tired of playing with it, so I called Tom Lee and talked over the issue. I ended up going with one of his "dry" P-Pumps, and a finned aluminum remote reservoir. I crafted an aluminum bracket to mount the reservoir next to my rad, opposite my overflow. -10AN supply from the reservoir to the pump (going through a 90deg elbow, -10AN to 1/2" NPT which I needed to clearance for my alternator), then -6AN everywhere else (pump flow control valve to box, then box to return of reservoir). Not crazy about the blue line, but after a dumba$$ moment in making the lines (see other thread) got it done.

Initially I thought maybe my brake issue was just more bleeding necessary, but started coming to the conclusion that it was knockback. I put that off for a bit and will come back to it. Bleeding was not the issue though.

Made two completely new oil lines - actually I lost faith in my own skill and had somebody else make these two lines. Removed entire oil filtration system (block plate, fittings, hoses, Canton filter), cleaned and tapped everything, used all new fittings). Re-installed and seemed to be dry.

Discovered that I also had leaking axle seals in the Moser rear end. Decided to replace the seals, and to replace the lube. Had issues getting replacement seals, and then discovered that I had NO preload on the (ford new style sealed) bearings. After assembly but without pads in the calipers, I could pull the axles in and out a noticeable amount when fully torqued down. Not happy. Finished up Wednesday night - the night I had to load the car in the trailer to be ready to depart for Heidts on Thursday. THERE is my knockback issue. Arrrgggghhhh.

Oh, but the good news? Picked up a set of new Forgeline ZZ3Rs....

[wmhjr]

OK, so it's Heidts. I started a brand new job on Monday the 11th, and had told them up front that I would be gone on that Friday. So, Thursday evening after work I grab my dad, and we jump in the truck/trailer and depart. We pull into the Host Hotel at 2:30AM Friday morning. Grab a few hours of sleep, and then drive over to Autobahn CC, where my wheels were shipped to by Forgeline so that I could have them for the event. Get back to the host hotel and offload the car to swap wheels - only to find that my left rear axle is leaking again. After having just put a brand new seal in 36 hours previously, and only moving the car into my trailer and then backing it out. Not sure what to do, so I clean it up and swap wheels.

The drive up to Heidts kind of sucked. Too much traffic, and for whatever reason the group elected to stay in the right lane behind trucks, trailers, cranes, and slow moving rodents. Anyway, while at Heidts I notice Mike Hamrick from Wilwood there, so we talk about my knockback and leak issue. He works with Heidts to pull a couple of the "new brackets" out of a kit, and Heidts scrounges around to find me another seal.

Friday night I spent in the hotel parking lot, pulling my axles, replaceing the left seal, etc. Loads of fun. Thanks to Mark Gizzie, who helped out with his generator and lights - as well as moral and technical support! It's all back together and I'm sticking the car back in the trailer at around midnight.

Saturday we're at the track. All seems OK. Except - I get out on the track and the oil temp starts climbing higher than I'd like. For the second session I had to back off a bit trying to control the heat, but was not successful. On the third session I was about to go back to the pit due to oil temp and because the rear end felt a little flaky especially under hard acceleration or hard braking when I got black flagged. The tower tells me that every time I make a hard right turn, there are clouds of smoke coming from my left rear wheel. Hmmm.... I go back and lift the rear of the car to discover that the entire rear end shifted to the right almost an inch. Here's a clue. I don't have an inch of clearance to start with. I pull the left rear wheel only to find that most of the tire sidewall is missing, and that the inside lip of the new wheel is a bit ground down.

Turns out that the right rear upper control arm (Currie Currectrac) locking nuts came loose, and the control arm came totally out of adjustment - moving the entire rear end to the right. I had to remove balls of rubber, reset the control arm, and swap the rear wheels. Due to oil temps and how long it took to fix this stuff, I was unfortunately done for the road course, and never really got to have any hard runs.

Sunday I was ready to go again after a bit more maintenance Saturday night, and though it was really tight, the autox went well in spite of the fact that my knockback was back in full force. There's a short straight leading to a hard close to 180deg right turn at the far point of the course where I simply had no brakes and had to use throttle and snap the car around. But all in all, the course was fun and I had enough control to get around the course relatively OK. The speed stop went surprisingly well, though I obviously need more practice. I was able to place 4th in the speed stop, edging out Greg Schneider which made my day. Greg is way more consistent and has an excellent car. I got lucky with a great final run. I really got reinforcment about just how much I'd like to have wider rubber than 245s up front and 275s in the back - but it just isn't possible for me.

I think I spent as much time under the car as in it over the weekend, but had a great time. You guys that didn't come to Heidts missed a great one. I really wish the car would have been at 100% so I could have taken advantage of the available track time!

[Zanie]

Problems or not, it was good to see ya there driving the wheels off of that "show car".

[AdvAutoBob]

Problems or not, it was good to see ya there driving the wheels off of that "show car".

copy THAT!

[Van B]

Wow. I wish I would have asked you what was going on when I wandered over at the hotel parking lot when you were working on it. I have been having the same problems with leakage, bearing preload, etc., as I posted over in your other topic. Sometimes weekends like this are the best times to get work done because you have nothing else to do but get issues with the car resolved. I did the same thing at Motorstate a couple of years ago where I worked through some tuning problems, a broken throttle cable and brake issues. I finally did come over and talk to you briefly as you were loading and asked about the tire smoke, but had no idea what you had all been through.

[73z-6sp]

gbhnjm

[wmhjr]

Wow! I thought I had bugs to work out! Sounds like you busted your butt! I'm not sure I would have been so happy with having to make all those repairs. But, maybe that's why I'm "ascared" to do anything or take my car anywhere for fear of having something bad happen that I can't fix and then have to rely on a tow truck or something!

Oh...we need pics.

;)

I've been out of town with work. I'll get some pics soon.

BTW, it's a car. Meant to drive, and maintain. Don't be afraid to push it. I will say I trailer, as my professional career doesn't have flexibility to allow me to be a day late in the event of a mechanical at the track. I need to be able to load the car in the trailer, get home and to work, so I can pay for the toys.

[wmhjr]

Wow. I wish I would have asked you what was going on when I wandered over at the hotel parking lot when you were working on it. I have been having the same problems with leakage, bearing preload, etc., as I posted over in your other topic. Sometimes weekends like this are the best times to get work done because you have nothing else to do but get issues with the car resolved. I did the same thing at Motorstate a couple of years ago where I worked through some tuning problems, a broken throttle cable and brake issues. I finally did come over and talk to you briefly as you were loading and asked about the tire smoke, but had no idea what you had all been through.

No more or less issues than all kinds of other people deal with all the time. I just wish I had been able to push the car on Saturday rather than dealing with the rear end issue and oil temps, making me take it easy. All it would have taken is a little effort and I could have finished overall much better than 11th. Of course, lots of other folks can probably say the same thing. That's racing.

[wmhjr]

Update as of Aug 8th 2011.....

Made some progress (based on available time) on the oil lines/cooler setup. There is just so little room to work on this car. There is no room "under" the car, and no airflow that's safe other than in front of the radiator - unless I was going to fabricate a completely new core support and move stuff around in the engine bay.

Here is what the front end looks like sans grill and bumper...


I decided to use the PRC cooler in front of the rad, but also add a Canton oil thermostat. Here is the thermostat with some mockup fittings?


Oil comes in one side (shown on left in pic), and until oil hits 215deg it goes straight out the right side. When it hits 215, it goes out one of the middle ports to the cooler and then back in the other middle port, and then back out. It apparently has the least resistance and highest flow of any thermostat. I was concerned about a couple things. During normal "street" driving, my water temps are 190-195, and my oil temp is 180-190. At its worst, I got my oil to almost 300 before I shut it down, and water temp was around 220. I worried that during normal street driving, the hot oil in the cooler would reduce the cooling efficiency of the radiator and increase my engine temps in traffic. I was also worried that on cool days, I'd never get my oil temps to reasonable levels and run too cool oil. The thermostat solves for both of those issues.

I decided to vertically mount the cooler in front of the passenger side of the rad.




The vertical mounting brackets are 6061 aluminum 1/2"x3/4" stock, which I drilled lightening holes in.

I mounted the oil thermostat kind of behind the front bumper .


I decided to switch to a different Canton oil filter assembly, mounting it inside the engine bay kind of behind the passenger headlight. An oil line will run from the engine block plate up to between the passenger fender/inner fender, to the oil filter. It then comes out of the filter, back over toward the fender and down/around to get to the "in" port of the thermostat. The 2 cooler ports are already plumbed to the cooler. The final port will return oil back to between the fender/inner fender and then down to the engine block plate.

I installed the revised block plate with fittings last night. I only have left making 3 more lines. The engine to filter, the filter to thermostat, and the thermostat to engine.

[wmhjr]

Also, pressed the tapered bearings, seals, and currie retainer plates onto the axles.