67 Fastback - Project Dalamar

[Dalamar]

Removing the firewall wasn't as hard as we thought it would be.
We worked on it for about 6 hrs today.

Here's some pictures.

[Dalamar]

[sgt d]

makes me want to start a build..lol.. good looking work from a fellow hellion guy!

[bonecrrusher]

Damn... talking about cutting 2 cars apart to make one... looks awesome!!

[jackfrost]

awesome progress!

the burning seam sealer is a familiar sight... ;)

[chunger]

Thank you. What color was your Fastback?

Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.

My welder is the Lincoln SP-170 T
Runs on 220V. and I use an Argon/Co2 mix with it for the shield.
I've had it for about 5 years, and it works great.
Recently replaced the lead because the coil inside it was getting old cand causing drag on the wire. Otherwise I've had no problems.
I wouldn't recommend going over a 15' lead.

I welded my Roticery together with it.
Much past 1/4 you'd want more heat. Using this for 3/16 and 1/4 I'd recommend you have a slight gap to help with penetration.

Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.

Car is really coming together. Nice job on the firewall - are you going to fab in some cowl vents like the stock firewall has? Dunno about you, but I find myself using them quite a bit to get air flowing in the car.

[Dalamar]

Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.

black hood on white is a nice combo. I'm considering doing something on my 96, which is white.

Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.

If there is any way you can get 220V out where your welder is, I'd highly recommend it.
In my experience you get a better weld, and you can turn up the heat when needed.

If you need to go with a buzz box (120 V uint ;) , I'd do some more checking on which model is best. a 120V unit would be fine if you're just doing sheet metal.



havn't thought about putting those vents back on, but that's a good suggestion. I'll check it out, thanks.

[CruizinKev]

wow awesome work! looking good!!

[ATOMonkey]

Very nice!

Do you have plans to put in a cage and support bars for the front frame section?

I noticed that my front frame section became very flexy after I removed the dog house and torque boxes.

I thought it would be stiff enough with a cage and welded subframe connectors, but it was not.

[ATOMonkey]

Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.

Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.

Car is really coming together. Nice job on the firewall - are you going to fab in some cowl vents like the stock firewall has? Dunno about you, but I find myself using them quite a bit to get air flowing in the car.

Running a 220V outlet is not hard at all. I wouldn't let that deter you from getting a bigger welder.

[Dalamar]

Very nice!

Do you have plans to put in a cage and support bars for the front frame section?

I noticed that my front frame section became very flexy after I removed the dog house and torque boxes.

I thought it would be stiff enough with a cage and welded subframe connectors, but it was not.

Yes we were, that flimsy sheet metal there, without the strut towers didn't seem to be doing much. I haven't done anything like that before, but we measured out the angle on the top for the fender mounts, and it shouldn't be too hard.

I looked over your link/build in your sig.
Looks like we've got the same welder. and I like how you cut a hole in the roof to hook up your hoist nice work.
Looks like it will be a nice ride. similar front, IRS and you've got Termy power!
My dad's first car when he got married was a Mav.
he says my Mom would do burn out's down their street. I have a hard time imagining that!

[Dalamar]

Can someone tell me where I can find some guildlines to help me build a cage/front support. We want to do it, but it will be undiscovered country!

[Dalamar]

The tunnel from the SN is offset towards the passanger side, and is a lil wider.
The drivers side lined up pretty good, and I got it frenched in last night.
reworked the right side corner piece to fit.
removed the outside hump from the SN, will fab it straighter with a lil more room.








The other side will take some massaging



(that beutel tape/tar stuff is tough stuff)

[ATOMonkey]

Yes we were, that flimsy sheet metal there, without the strut towers didn't seem to be doing much. I haven't done anything like that before, but we measured out the angle on the top for the fender mounts, and it shouldn't be too hard.

I looked over your link/build in your sig.
Looks like we've got the same welder. and I like how you cut a hole in the roof to hook up your hoist nice work.
Looks like it will be a nice ride. similar front, IRS and you've got Termy power!
My dad's first car when he got married was a Mav.
he says my Mom would do burn out's down their street. I have a hard time imagining that!

Thanks for the compliments!

That flimsy sheet metal combined with the torque boxes was doing much more than I imagined. When I sat that mod motor on there it probably sagged the whole front end at least 2 inches. That's why I tacked those down bars in there. I'm sure it has something to do with the car sitting on the rockers (so the weight isn't realistically distributed) but still...

Since I don't plan on drag racing, and only wanted to cage to add stiffness to the car, I bought the Jeg's 10 point cage and rear seat saver bars. It ended up fitting pretty well, and I could have tucked it up better if it wasn't my first time doing it. I ground the notches too deep which shortened up the bars too much. Still workable though.

I don't like the way those diagonal bars look right now, and I'm not satisfied that they provide all the support I want. So, I'm going to order another set of rear seat saver bars ($55USD) and use those to brace up the front. Should look much better and support the front end a lot better too. Especially after I add gussets to the joints. I'll also be able to use them to support the fenders and hood later.

I need to add some bars from the frame to the cage where the torque boxes used to be, because that appears to be where most of my flex is happening. It's just spanning too much distance without any verticle support. Once I do that, I should be pretty good to go.

[Goat73]

Just read through the whole thread. very quality work. can't wait for the finished product..keep up the great work.

[Dalamar]

Thanks Goat



Made some more progress this evening

[ATOMonkey]

Can someone tell me where I can find some guildlines to help me build a cage/front support. We want to do it, but it will be undiscovered country!

I like the way this guy has run the tubes for his maverick.

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.ph...770#post670770

[Dalamar]

I'm not registered on that site, can't view the pics :(

[ATOMonkey]

[Dalamar]

Picked up a few things from powder yesterday!
brakes/adapters turned out guuuuud.












Shiny Motor mounts, and picked up an IRS cover brace.