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    Page 7 of 23 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 17 ... LastLast
    Results 121 to 140 of 454
    1. #121
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Motorcity, Canada
      Posts
      292
      Interesting project - finally going to take the time to comment . Looks like you have come a long way since you started.

      As for the interior, as you know we are doing the exact opposite to you (and plus it is on a Torino and not a Mustang - although they are similar in many ways). I am retaining ther stock interior look, but hiding all the guts from a newer Mustang behind it. I am running an SN95 Mustang suspension front and rear, engine, trans, rear and all the assosiated electronics.

      Personally - I think the interior of a old Mustang is just as iconic as the outside of the car. That's why I decided to go original, although it made my life more difficult to get there with all the modern parts in the background. Are you just looking for a more modern feel in the interior? Not meaning to be a critic here - was just curious given the amount of work it will take you to get there. I know I get these questions all the time .

      We ended up removing the stock Torino firewall and replaced it with a 2004 Mustang one. We went back and forth on that one, and in the end decided to go ahead with it once we found out how cheap a firewall is from the Ford service dept. It also made sense since nothing from the original Torino that bolts to the firewall is retained in our cars. It turned out to be much more work than planned, but worth it for what we are doing.

      Our reasoning for doing this was:
      - Clearance for the 6-speed trans which takes up lots of room
      - Mounting of the gas pedal (for use with the cable for the 4.6L engine)
      - Mounting of the brakes and clutch. This interfaces with the stock Mustang clutch cable and hydroboost assembly.
      - Mounting of the heater box / air dryer from a new Mustang. This goes along with all the Mustang wiring and connects to a stock new Mustang condensor, compressor etc.
      - Made it easier to pass the wiring through to the engine compartment, and did not have to patch dozens of original Torino holes.

      Major issues we had/have:
      - Fitting a new Mustang firewall into a Torino (obviously). The newer Mustang has a different windshield rake angle which changes the proportions of the car quite a bit relative to older cars. This put the wheel wells on the firewall in the completely wrong place. We just cut them out of the firewall and made the panels flat.
      - Controlling new Mustang heater control with old Torino sliding controls
      - Finding a place for the cruise control buttons
      - Operating the newer intermittent wipers from the Torino instrument panel
      - Operating a new Mustang light switch from old Torino panel
      - Moving the key from the column to the dash (since we are retaining the PATS security system and want to use new Ford keys)
      - We do have the same issue as you do when it comes to ducting the fresh air into the heater box. We are just going to scratch build an adapter.
      - For the clutch to work correctly, we had to lower the floor 3/4" so the top of the pedal would not interfere with the cowl area and water drainage.
      - Making a new gauge cluster work in an old car. Long complicated solution there . That's a whole other story in its own.
      - Original glove-box vs. new heater box

      Issues I see you having (all depending on how much of the Mustang front clip you use):
      - Contolling the Mustang wiper motor from the new Mustang column. Likely easier in the end to use a motor from a new Mustang on your car. Believe it or not, the rotating arm from a Torino bolts right onto a new Mustang motor - same slot size and everything.
      - Adpting a old light switch to a new dash. This one kinda shocked me. A 2004 Mustang light switch bolts into a 1968 Torino dash with no mods at all. They are still nearly identical nearly 40 years later except for the pin outs on the switch.
      - Connecting new signal light harnesses from a new column to an old harness. Another surprise here - Ford still uses the same color coding on all the wires even today, so it is an easy cut and splice for you.
      - Adapting the gas pedal/cable to your engine. Motion ratio will likely be different, so you may have to make up some custom linkage. Maybe a Fox body carb cable will work?
      - Adapting shifter to older trans. I don't speak auto trans.. so can't help you there .
      - Cluster as you already know
      - Steering linkages to the new column. Surprisingly new cars still use the same/similar 3/4 DD steering shafts as the 60's cars. Only issue here is the new column does not go straight to the floor. The column kicks to the right to clear the brake pedal.
      - Are you planning on just keeping the airbag in the column and making it non-functional? Same thing with the cruise control?

      I could go on and on . I am sure you already know most of this.. but figured I would chime in regardless. You definitely have a lot of work ahead of you as you already know. Good luck and keep the posts coming!

      Craig
      1968 Torino GT 4.6L S/C T56 IRS x2
      www.twintorino.com


    2. #122
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      thanks for the feedback Preston.
      It makes sense what you're saying about the cooler. I wonder how much air flow actually goes in there.

      I'm curious - how long did it take you to make metal scoops?

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    3. #123
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Thank you for the excellent feedback SVTforme.

      That is interesting how we're doing similar but opposites on the engine/interior. Thanks for the info on your experience, very helpful!
      The SN95 interior is just under 3" wider than the 67, but there is a formed post on either side.
      once we subtracted that it's within 1/2 on the width for the dash mounts. the tunnel is also offset to the passanger
      side in the SN and a little extra room around the transmission will be good.

      With this IRS - the drive shaft won't need to move up/down, I was thinking of shaving the tunnel down where the rear seat
      is so there's not such a hump in the rear seat. we'll see how that turns out.



      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      Personally - I think the interior of a old Mustang is just as iconic as the outside of the car. That's why I decided to go original, although it made my life more difficult to get there with all the modern parts in the background. Are you just looking for a more modern feel in the interior? Not meaning to be a critic here - was just curious given the amount of work it will take you to get there. I know I get these questions all the time .
      It's all good.
      I really don't like the older dashes, they're very plain and have no console ect. I do like the SN interior, and wanted a console -
      so I thought it would be a good fit. make the car more interesting and comfortable on the inside.

      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - We do have the same issue as you do when it comes to ducting the fresh air into the heater box. We are just going to scratch build an adapter.
      Hoping to reuse the lower part of the firewall/cowel. then the intake will line right up.

      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - For the clutch to work correctly, we had to lower the floor 3/4" so the top of the pedal would not interfere with the cowl area and water drainage.
      I think we're going to raise the dash up about 1 1/2" above where we mocked it up.
      would be nice to lower the floor a little, but with these rails going through it, it wouldn't work out.



      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      Issues I see you having (all depending on how much of the Mustang front clip you use):
      - Contolling the Mustang wiper motor from the new Mustang column. Likely easier in the end to use a motor from a new Mustang on your car. Believe it or not, the rotating arm from a Torino bolts right onto a new Mustang motor - same slot size and everything.
      The wiper motor bolts up, thats GREAT to hear. we were wondering if we'd have to swap the whole arm assembly. we definately want intermitent wipers.

      I can imagine you had quite the job wiring all new controls and electronics in your project!



      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - Adpting a old light switch to a new dash. This one kinda shocked me. A 2004 Mustang light switch bolts into a 1968 Torino dash with no mods at all. They are still nearly identical nearly 40 years later except for the pin outs on the switch.

      - Connecting new signal light harnesses from a new column to an old harness. Another surprise here - Ford still uses the same color coding on all the wires even today, so it is an easy cut and splice for you.
      had no idea. thank you again.



      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - Adapting the gas pedal/cable to your engine. Motion ratio will likely be different, so you may have to make up some custom linkage. Maybe a Fox body carb cable will work?
      yes, fox body linkage should work fine.
      thinking of EFI conversion rather than a carb.


      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - Adapting shifter to older trans. I don't speak auto trans.. so can't help you there .
      :D


      Quote Originally Posted by SVTforme View Post
      - Are you planning on just keeping the airbag in the column and making it non-functional? Same thing with the cruise control?
      For the steering wheel, we've removed the SN95 wheel-airbag is built into it. Momo makes a nice wheel that bolts right on.

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    4. #124
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      I'm curious - how long did it take you to make metal scoops?
      Probably 4 hours each not including the flanges welded to the body to bolt them on (I made them out of aluminum), and not including paint/bondo (which hasn't been done yet). But the have a nice rolled edge on the "outlet" too.

      And these were actually made for the front fenders to provide hot air outlet behind the wheels, but they were shaped to have the same contours as the rear ones, so process would be very similar.

    5. #125
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368








      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    6. #126
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Posts
      15
      Sweet!!!

    7. #127
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    8. #128
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States

    9. #129
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Iceland
      Posts
      896
      Country Flag: Iceland

    10. #130
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Posts
      484

    11. #131
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      thanks for the compliments.



      I had some spacers made for the rear, they match the rotor hat diameter and are hub-centric.













      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    12. #132
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      199
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not sure if you or anyone else has noticed, but all of your picture links seem broken. You may want to look into fixing it. Right-clicking and opening the links in a new tab or window works so I think it's where the pictures are pointing or the code. If you have moved your pictures at all, or sorted them in some way this may be causing the issue.

      Oh, and AWESOME Work on the Mustang, Loving the idea's and mods!
      Travis

      1968 Mustang Coupe WideBody
      1968 Barracuda Formula S Sold 10/10/10

      My Barracuda.
      It's more than just an old car,
      It's my one freedom.

    13. #133
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      very nice work Jeff! you'll add fender flares? what rear tire size?
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    14. #134
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Really Krazed? it works fine on my end. Is anyone else having that problem?



      Thanks Kevin.
      We're going to keep the stock flair, and bringing the fender out.
      Rears are 305's

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    15. #135
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      Huntsville, Tx
      Posts
      481
      Country Flag: United States

      Looks...

      good to me. Progress is coming along nicely. Great workmanship.

      Sam
      69 Firebird convertible T/A pro-touring custom, Now LS1/T56 six speed, 3:42 Eaton posi, 18" Iforged wheels, 04 GTO interior.
      www.fquick.com/SamHatco
      Jack of all trades, master of none.

    16. #136
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      199
      Country Flag: United States
      Hmmm work's fine now. Not sure what happened! All other threads were working fine, just yours wasn't.. oh well!
      Travis

      1968 Mustang Coupe WideBody
      1968 Barracuda Formula S Sold 10/10/10

      My Barracuda.
      It's more than just an old car,
      It's my one freedom.

    17. #137
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Well after doing some reading....after I got these spacers, there appears to be an issue with spacers over 1/2" thick,
      shearing force and expansion/contraction can cause the lugs to loosen.
      I'm not totally conviced, but I'd rather error on the side of caution, so I ordered another set of these in Adapter form, with offset studs.

      good feedback on this thread:
      http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech...dangerous.html


      live and learn

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    18. #138
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      462
      Dalamar - Enjoying the build. I too had a '67 Fastback, but all I did was drop in a 5.0L! Course this was 20 years ago, when not many were doing that.

      Anyway - I've noticed in your pics that you appear to be using a small Lincoln welder - how do you like it? Any issues with welding thick material? I ask as I'm going to be picking up a welder myself and can find these Lincolns easily. What size/model is it? Are you using it with gas?

    19. #139
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Deerfield, IL
      Posts
      49
      This is an awesome build.

    20. #140
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Thanks Strtcar





      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      Dalamar - Enjoying the build. I too had a '67 Fastback, but all I did was drop in a 5.0L! Course this was 20 years ago, when not many were doing that.

      Anyway - I've noticed in your pics that you appear to be using a small Lincoln welder - how do you like it? Any issues with welding thick material? I ask as I'm going to be picking up a welder myself and can find these Lincolns easily. What size/model is it? Are you using it with gas?
      Thank you. What color was your Fastback?

      My welder is the Lincoln SP-170 T
      Runs on 220V. and I use an Argon/Co2 mix with it for the shield.
      I've had it for about 5 years, and it works great.
      Recently replaced the lead because the coil inside it was getting old cand causing drag on the wire. Otherwise I've had no problems.
      I wouldn't recommend going over a 15' lead.

      I welded my Roticery together with it.
      Much past 1/4 you'd want more heat. Using this for 3/16 and 1/4 I'd recommend you have a slight gap to help with penetration.

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

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