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    Results 101 to 120 of 454
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      thank you.

      Looking at how the exhaust will have to come through the middle/bottom of the irs, then turn and go around the front of the tank -
      looks like we'll need to insluate it from the exhaust heat there. gotta figure out what to use for that. any ideas?






      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0


    2. #102
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Posts
      115
      How about side exit exhaust. Dr gas makes a nice kit for it. Maybe integrate it into the body like the roush side exit?

    3. #103
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      I would cut the tank in half and run center exit exhaust! Kinda late for that tho. But you did make a really nice tank. So that shouldnt be too hard for you.

    4. #104
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      Quote Originally Posted by falcon65 View Post
      I would cut the tank in half and run center exit exhaust! Kinda late for that tho. But you did make a really nice tank. So that shouldnt be too hard for you.
      x2! or maybe just a channel under it?

      nice project so far!
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    5. #105
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      DFW (Dallas TX)
      Posts
      159
      Are you mounting the filler neck on the sail panel? Very nice work, great looking welds.

      Rick C.
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/541371/4

      Used to be known as PonyCar'68

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Quote Originally Posted by dolf View Post
      How about side exit exhaust. Dr gas makes a nice kit for it. Maybe integrate it into the body like the roush side exit?
      I like that suggestion!
      Looking at tips, I think I'd go with the Saleen F150 tip.



      I'll have to kick this around.
      I had side exhaust on my other mustang for a while, and you do get some soot on the body/wheel, it is louder comingout of the side,
      it's kinda in your ear when you're crusing with the windows down.
      there's also exhaust smell there when you're getting in and out....

      looks bad ass though

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      thanks for the suggestions guys, I don't think we want to cut into this tank, mainly because it's welded inside and out.
      be hard to weld it again on the inside without cutting the top out.


      Quote Originally Posted by Fast68back View Post
      Are you mounting the filler neck on the sail panel? Very nice work, great looking welds.
      Yes we're looking at a neck on the drivers side.

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    8. #108
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      another of the tank:


      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    9. #109
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Did some chopping yesterday!











      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    10. #110
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      We also did a "test fit" of the dash











      It was exciting to see it in there, I think it looks Great!

      that is pretty close to where it will sit - we're going to trim it another 1/2 inch to get it as close as we can to the windshield
      We've got some work ahead of us to get this firewall swapped!

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      CT.
      Posts
      743
      Very nice progress so far. I can't wait to see how you mount the dash.



      Glenn

      1955 Chevy BelAir
      1951 Chevy 3100
      1987 Chevy Silverado

      My last project....
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...my-72-Maverick!!

    12. #112
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      Mt.Pleasant Pa.
      Posts
      531
      Country Flag: United States
      keep the good work up.

      71 olds cutlass supreme convertible
      07 dodge ram
      96 monte carlo
      11 dodge challenger


      http://www.fquick.com/724TIM
      http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm206/724tim/

    13. #113
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      yeah cool
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    14. #114
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Thank you






      Still waiting on a few parts to get this thing on the ground.

      messed around with the pedals tonight, turned out pretty good.
      Stock pedal assembly from the SN had a clutch, and the Bullet gas and footrest. But we're going with an automatic.










      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    15. #115
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Salt Lake City, UT
      Posts
      94
      An automatic trans?... what about one of those sweet T-56 trans from the Cobra?
      67 fastback
      351w
      Baer brakes
      G-Force T5 trans
      9" rear w/3:50 gears & 31 spline axles
      Link
      Recently moved Salt Lake City from the SF Bay area.
      Looking forward to driving on the Miller Motorsports track this summer!

    16. #116
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Yep, built automatic

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    17. #117
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      memphis
      Posts
      341
      new pony meets old pony..i love it
      Dave

    18. #118
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      You are swapping the firewall primarily to facilitate the new dash ?
      That seems like a lot of extra work just for the dash but I guess if you are using the new pedal assy as well. I would think you would want to stick with the late model airbox if you are using the dash vents and all - the vintage air stuff will not really be as nice as OEM and has no provision for fresh air, whereas the late model will have fresh air and recirc and A/C enabled defrost.

      What is your plan for the gauges - custom panel that uses standard aftermarket gauges or are you going to attempt to integrate the OEM gauges ? Can you explain your approach here ?

      A previous poster mentioned creating a return/assist spring for the power windows ? Can he come back and tell us what that means. I am running the Electric Life power windows in my '67 and they have been a good unit but I always felt they were a bit underpowered. I spent a lot of time getting my seals just right so the windows would easily go up all the way, if you have any friction at all the pw motor really struggles and won't always close easily. They seem to work okay now, but just curious if other people have had problems with the kit being a bit weak and if some kind of spring assist helps and how that might be fabbed up.

      Yeah MustangsPlus or delta bay can source the fiberglass side scoops in functional brake duct or non-fucntional style.

      I totally agree with clean not Eleanor look.

    19. #119
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Thanks Dave




      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      You are swapping the firewall primarily to facilitate the new dash ?
      That seems like a lot of extra work just for the dash but I guess if you are using the new pedal assy as well. I would think you would want to stick with the late model airbox if you are using the dash vents and all - the vintage air stuff will not really be as nice as OEM and has no provision for fresh air, whereas the late model will have fresh air and recirc and A/C enabled defrost.
      Preston, yes we're going to use the air box and everything from the 98.
      thanks for the feedback on that.

      My dad and I were just talking about the firewall.
      I'm no expert here, and am certainly open to suggestions/feedback.
      swapping this firewall & most of the tunnel should take care of:
      -brake booster mount,
      -gas and brake pedals mount & lining up the linkage to the booster
      -mounting the dash
      -mounting the the console
      -the e-brake
      -the heater box
      -air inlet for the heater box
      -steering pivot & column

      Sure we could fabricate mounts for all that stuff, but this seems like it would take care of all that in one big step.




      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      What is your plan for the gauges - custom panel that uses standard aftermarket gauges or are you going to attempt to integrate the OEM gauges ? Can you explain your approach here ?
      the stock 98 cluster is run by the PCM, so I was thinking of using this:




      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      A previous poster mentioned creating a return/assist spring for the power windows ? Can he come back and tell us what that means. I am running the Electric Life power windows in my '67 and they have been a good unit but I always felt they were a bit underpowered. I spent a lot of time getting my seals just right so the windows would easily go up all the way, if you have any friction at all the pw motor really struggles and won't always close easily. They seem to work okay now, but just curious if other people have had problems with the kit being a bit weak and if some kind of spring assist helps and how that might be fabbed up.
      I havn't dived into the doors/windows yet, so I'll have to look into that when we get there.

      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      Yeah MustangsPlus or delta bay can source the fiberglass side scoops in functional brake duct or non-fucntional style.
      Have you seen one that is made of metal?
      I was also thinking that functional sides scoops - would be "cool" to mount a remote transmission cooler behind it.

      Quote Originally Posted by preston View Post
      I totally agree with clean not Eleanor look.
      Glad to hear it

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    20. #120
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      333
      I'm no expert here, and am certainly open to suggestions/feedback.
      swapping this firewall & most of the tunnel should take care of:
      -brake booster mount,
      -gas and brake pedals mount & lining up the linkage to the booster
      -mounting the dash
      -mounting the the console
      -the e-brake
      -the heater box
      -air inlet for the heater box
      -steering pivot & column
      All good points that have to be balanced against welding in a complete new firewall that may or may not fit the existing structure well (I'm guessing you would you start above the frame rails and torque boxes). Myself I would rather build all the custom mounts. On those '67's you often have a significant amount of cowl rot that needs to be addressed anyway which might make replacing the firewall easier, but your car looks to be in very good shape.

      Air inlet for the heater box is a significant issue as this will be difficult to connect to the '67 cowl area if you don't reuse the original "tube".

      I have never seen a metal side scoop sold. I recently made some myself using standard metal forming techniques but don't have any plans to sell them. On my old car I put the diff and trans coolers in teh side scoops like you are talking about. Here is a picture of them being mocked up without bodywork however note its a tube frame so not sure how applicable it is for you. Not sure how well it workd as i was running my exhaust pipe behind the cooler about 6" and there didn't seem to be much airflow in there despite the scoop. Never instrumented it before/after so again not sure how well it worked.


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