69 GTO Build

[67speedfreak]

Your project is looking great !

[ekmxryda]

Kris, yeah saw that episode thanks, wish they showed the windshield and how they solved the bottom gap. More custom parts!
mikes2nd, feel free to post up pics! Sounds like you are a step ahead of me, today I got the trunk filler panel ready, cut off the back and slid it up / forward over the original.
Brian, Thanks! Getting there slowly. We all need an update on your GTO! (and Fairlane)

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus,

Thanks. I was going for looks, as well as some performance. I'll occasionally do autocross, but more for street driving. I agree, if it were a dedicated track car, 18/19's would be better... however, 18's (In this style) would not fit over my 14" brakes, on the front. I went as wide as possible without modifying the tubs, etc... Maybe the next project??/ ha, ha... Good luck with your build!

Understood. Appreciate the input and understand about the brake situation. Something else to consider.... I do like the 20/19 look and my car will be more street than track. And, unfortunately, track days at TMP are becoming scarce... we had our club's July 14 date kicked back to September! I'm sure it was political and economics played a hand (for the tracks benefit), but at least we went from a monday to a saturday. But it's the only one we got!! Demand is high and of course, with high demand price is up there, but I have the Miata as a dedicated track car that is streetable, so perhaps the 20/19 combo may be the better choice. It sure looks damn cool on your goat!! But Probably quite a few months away for me for that purchase, both in terms of labor and available funds, but planning is all part of the build, right?

Keep those pics coming fastmonty.

[Fastmonty]

Gus, Eric, et all... Happy Father's Day. As luck may have it, I'm now a Dad. We had our first kid, last week, pre-mature. We were able to take him home on Fathers Day. Hell of a present, huh? Here he is... he should be wrenching within the next year. That said, Project Green Envy is now on a minor delay. I now value any sleep I can get. I should probably install carpet in the goat, so I can take some naps here and there... ha, ha...





Gus, I hear you about track days... Car Clubs always get pushed around at race tracks. When reading your posts, I start to regret not keeping my track car... I recently sold my E46 M3, which was nicely modified for Autocross. But, the last three years I haven't had time to enjoy it, so I got rid of it... besides, when the goat's done, why would I drive the M3 anymore?



Talk with you all soon...

[ekmxryda]

Hey Mike,
Congrats on being a new Dad! You will have a good helper soon. Sleep under the GTO, that way it will seem like you are working when the wife comes looking for you.

Was able to roll the new roof skin under for a nice soft edge, will stitch weld and seam seal to finish under side.

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus, Eric, et all... Happy Father's Day. As luck may have it, I'm now a Dad. We had our first kid, last week, pre-mature. We were able to take him home on Fathers Day. Hell of a present, huh? Here he is... he should be wrenching within the next year. That said, Project Green Envy is now on a minor delay. I now value any sleep I can get. I should probably install carpet in the goat, so I can take some naps here and there... ha, ha...



Gus, I hear you about track days... Car Clubs always get pushed around at race tracks. When reading your posts, I start to regret not keeping my track car... I recently sold my E46 M3, which was nicely modified for Autocross. But, the last three years I haven't had time to enjoy it, so I got rid of it... besides, when the goat's done, why would I drive the M3 anymore?



Talk with you all soon...

Hi Mike. A belated happy father's day to you too and congrats on the new addition to your family. The picture is perfect! My daughter's are so busy (one just got married) we had to put off father's day celebration until yesterday, but it was worth the wait. We had a nice time.

Funny you mention about selling your beemer.. I can see now that between work, family and minimal track days availability, I wonder, after one autocross event, that maybe I made a mistake since my Miata won't be getting as much use as I thought? But I say, NAH! Even just doing a few a year is worth the investment. Plus taking "Mia" for a quick ride like I did yesterday, is such a blast, that she's a keeper. She's basically a low powered turn key race car... no where near the power of one of our musclecars, but she handles like a go cart once up to speed. So now I don't have to build my 442konekilr cutlass project into a serious track car since I already have one, and can make the cutlass a bit more of a wide tired, low and mean road car that may see an autocross or track day just for giggles. Besides, both my daughters have dibs on the Miata when I can't drive anymore (I told 'em don't hold your breath on that one!!) so I'll be holding on to that car too since I must have SOMETHING to drive, but I'm all out of garage space, so my quota has been reached!

The pic of your beemer shows a real nice car. Bet you regret letting her go but while my family is moving out and on their own, you're just starting yours, so sometimes a financial choice has to be made and family comes first. Of course, now you have your son who can help you wrench and will hopefully have the enthusiasm for your Goat you do. Neither one of my daughters are car girls, per say, and have no desire to wield a wrench, but that's ok. Hoping for a grandson or granddaughter that may pick up car bug.

Enjoy every minute with your son now while you can (except during sleep deprivation, been there, done that, got the t-shirt) 'cause he'll grow up sooooo fast! And just think real hard about selling any future project cars... once they go, they're so hard to replace. I had a '67 GTO I let go back in the late 70's, and I regret it every day. So now my cutlass' fill the need for a project car and I am whole again. They won't be going anywhere unless life deals me a bad hand. That's why I try not so say never.

Speaking of letting cars go, I had an '02 c5 'vette I bought in 2008. Two months later I lost my job but I hung on to the 'vette until I started working again. Then felt the same way about the car as you did your beemer so let her go. Never even though about autocross. It would have made a great autox car, but with higher consumables than the Miata. Attached a pic of the "other" one that got away. :(

Speaking of projects, finally got rid of a stomach bug that was hanging on for days and got the body on a body cart so I can start the minitubs and lower rear quarter replacements. I attached a pic. Kinda looks funny with the rear hanging out like that and I was freaking out when I moved it from one garage bay to the other with the tractor thinking it was going to flop over, but it's fine. I figured this mounting position will keep the body solid while I cut out the wheel wells for the minitubs AND allow full access. If anyone (Eric?) thinks I should brace the rear more by extending the body cart, please let me know now 'cause I'm gonna start cuttin' soon.

Ok, enough chit chat, gotta get out to the garage. No more cold weather excuses.... it's a beautiful day... warm and low humidity,,.. won't be getting too many more of these!

Enjoy the weekend Guys!!

[ekmxryda]

Hey Gus, Nice Vette, I would be on that show car hoarders if I didn't let go of project cars along the way. The 67 Mustang fastback I sold years ago is one I regret, would have made a fun full frame street fighter.
I am guessing you should be fine cutting the tubs away while on the body cart since your car looks rust free, but to be safe I would throw some jack stands under the trunk and even under the rear body mounts. Measure and mark points from the floor or body cart before you cut anything, that way you will be able sleep at night!
I measured everything while on the rotisserie before and after I cut mine, and when it was hanging upside down (floor up) and in compression is when I welded things. When the body was flipped right side up the trunk floor was sagging (before welding) about 1/4". Good luck!

[ekmxryda]

Cut the firewall then got the motor set back 3 1/2". Not sure what type of intake I am going with down the road but I figure a little extra room will be nice.
Need to make new motor mounts then figure out headers next and I hope to find something that fits my budget.

['71cutlasluvr]

Thanks Mike,
Got the floors done, need to do the trans and driveshaft tunnel once I get the body on the frame and buy a transmission.

Attachment 88806

Looking back on your post Eric, found this pic.. Man how did you get the bottom of the body so clean??!! Nice job! All ready for the lizard skin? That's what I plan on using once all welding is done and it's sparkling clean like yours is here.

[Fastmonty]

Eric,

A few comments... One, your rolled roof edge looks fantastic! If I should ever do another one of these projects... hmmm, ten years from now, I'll have to send you some sheet metal. Ha, ha... Two, you have a budget? Since when? Three, I was able to get the front wheel mounted to check the brake and control arm clearance. There's plenty of radial clearance, around the caliper (1.25"), but dropping to 18's might complicate the valve stem situation, which is behind the center section of the wheel, on the same plane as the caliper. But, I'm sure you could find a solution for that. The control arm is even closer than the caliper (1"). Again, I have drop spindles while retaining the stock control arm location.

I ordered Pilot Super Sports yesterday... the rears are on back order for three weeks! Not sure if I can hold in my excitement.

Gus,

Glad you were able to get a father's day in. Love the Vette pic too. The new Z06 is on my list... behind a bigger house, kids college funding, etc... ha, ha. As for project Green Envy, and it's future. It will NEVER be sold. The reason is, my dad bought this car brand new and I learned to drive on it. If my son is lucky enough, he'll inherit it, otherwise I'll be buried in it.

Other than that, this week, I'm installing a DUI HEI distributor, flushing the coolant and replacing it with EVANS coolant, then should be able to fire it this weekend! (I installed the gas tank with my Dad, last week, which was an event in itself. He's NOT mechanically inclined, but finally helped with something) As well as an Electric fuel pump, mainly as a primer, before starting after long rest periods, and when I upgrade to a Butler 465.

Talk soon...

['71cutlasluvr]

Hey Gus, Nice Vette, I would be on that show car hoarders if I didn't let go of project cars along the way. The 67 Mustang fastback I sold years ago is one I regret, would have made a fun full frame street fighter.
I am guessing you should be fine cutting the tubs away while on the body cart since your car looks rust free, but to be safe I would throw some jack stands under the trunk and even under the rear body mounts. Measure and mark points from the floor or body cart before you cut anything, that way you will be able sleep at night!
I measured everything while on the rotisserie before and after I cut mine, and when it was hanging upside down (floor up) and in compression is when I welded things. When the body was flipped right side up the trunk floor was sagging (before welding) about 1/4". Good luck!

Oohhhh. A '67 fastback? I'm not much of a ford guy, but THAT is one I'd like to have in the stable. Ouch...Aside from the '67 goat, i only had an '83 buick regal with the drivetrain out of a 69 chevelle (402/4 speed/12 bolt, cars long gone, sold the engine, blew the tranny but still have the 12 bolt), and the 'vette. So i'm not car hoarder material, but i've never had the funds until just the last few years too. Like they say, either plenty of time and not enough $, or enough $ but no time 'cause your working your %#$ off making the $!

Thanks for the input Eric. Yeah, I thought the body is solid enough that I didn't need any sort of support or bracing and that using the rotisserie for this work would be a bad a idea, hence the body cart. I asked the seller of my body cart/rotisserie about bracing and he suggest 1" square tubing cut and welding to the rear seat support to the rear of the trunk, but I am doing one minitub at a time so thought it was overkill too. Jack stands won't reach since the height is a good 4 feet off the ground. I did this to allow easy access and minimal bending over since I am 6'2" and my 58 old body doesn't bend so good anymore, especially for long periods. I would imagine since I am doing mini tubs, that the rust free main body structure is rigid enough to prevent any sagging when the old wheel tubs are removed. But that's a great idea on the measurements before cutting/welding. Will do for the piece of mind. THANK YOU!

1/4" sag with the body right side up? WOW! That's what I was afraid of using the rotisserie. Very smart of you to do the welding inverted and in compression. You, sir, are a veritable encyclopedia of information. My sincerest thanks for you willingness to share your expertise with us mere mortals. As I get into this, you can expect more questions. I hope I don't wear out my welcome on your thread.

['71cutlasluvr]

Cut the firewall then got the motor set back 3 1/2". Not sure what type of intake I am going with down the road but I figure a little extra room will be nice.
Need to make new motor mounts then figure out headers next and I hope to find something that fits my budget.

Sweet! Man you are really moving along Eric. So jealous! On vaca next week so hope to have some progress pics of my own to post. Man it's summer already. Sheesh. Where's the time go?? Keep the updates coming. Luvin' it!

['71cutlasluvr]

Eric,

Gus,

Glad you were able to get a father's day in. Love the Vette pic too. The new Z06 is on my list... behind a bigger house, kids college funding, etc... ha, ha. As for project Green Envy, and it's future. It will NEVER be sold. The reason is, my dad bought this car brand new and I learned to drive on it. If my son is lucky enough, he'll inherit it, otherwise I'll be buried in it.

Other than that, this week, I'm installing a DUI HEI distributor, flushing the coolant and replacing it with EVANS coolant, then should be able to fire it this weekend! (I installed the gas tank with my Dad, last week, which was an event in itself. He's NOT mechanically inclined, but finally helped with something) As well as an Electric fuel pump, mainly as a primer, before starting after long rest periods, and when I upgrade to a Butler 465.

Talk soon...

Yes, I have a similar bucket/to do list Mike, but MY big inhibitor is I'd like to retire in 10 years so how much $ to spend on anything not retirement or day to day necessities makes me think things out a bit more than most younger car enthusiasts. My car will probably never be nearly as nice as your's or Erics, but DIY'ing as much as possible certainly helps.

Great that you have your dad around to help, even if it's limited. Lost my dad in 2001, so like your brandy new baby boy, enjoy the time with your dad while you can.

Looking back over the begining of Erics build, it occurs to me that Eric and thread contributors like you, Mike, have done a lot of what I hope to do to my 442 project. i.e. shaving drip rails, recessed glass, etc. So before I ask a question, I promise to review previous entries.. I may just find the info I'm looking for without taking up forum space with redundancy.

Mike, I can see you have coil overs in the latest pics. Once the frame is notched and the body is tubbed, it will be time to set ride height, purchase wheels/tires, coil overs and the rest of the suspension package.. The only purchase I have completed so far is a front end package from Mark Savitske at SC&C. btw: Great guy to work with. He spent nearly 3 hours on the phone with me last fall explaining our a-bodies crappy geometry and how to fix it. Anyway, the purchase was made before buying the Miata so was thinking track day/autocross car, but now I realize I probably didn't have to go so high end, but what's done is done and will build the best handler I can around these components. I inserted the invoice here so you guys know what I have to start with on the suspension. I would like to go with Marks recommendations for the rest of the system but he does not offer a coil over setup, which I believe is critical for ride height adjustment. I would like to hear what pieces you are using and why. Thanks guys.

[Fastmonty]

Gus,

I hear you about saving money... which is why I attempted to do the body work and paint myself. I had the body acid dipped, and zinc coated. So, the average paint quote was around $25k! Because no one would touch it, unless they did the body work too. Understandable. As we all know, the body shops start to add on from there, let alone take their precious time. So, what the hell... I'll do it myself. It has some minor flaws, including one mosquito, which I'm leaving in the paint for characters sake. But, I've already had some experts in our hobby stop by, and they're stunned that I did it in my garage and have ZERO orange peel.

Anyway, back to your suspension question. I went with Global West Front and Rear Coilover set up, with Wilwood discs (13" rear, 14" front). Unfortunately, I didn't know that the adjustable A arms that you and Eric have even existed. So, I get the joy of laboring with shims, but the geometry is corrected, as pointed out by your expert Mark. The front struts are double adjustable QA1's, the rear's are Penske's with external reservoir. I also have full spherical bearings, and adjustable upper arms in the rear as well as Delrin inserts in the trailing arms. That said, here's a picture of the rear. Note the struts are now vertical, which requires a lot of welding on the frame, and the rear axle. If you're considering a brand new rear end, I know that Strange Engineering will provide the appropriate bracketry, so you don't have to do it. My welding looks like crap, because I've never done that before either. Been an interesting learning curve...

Talk soon...

[ekmxryda]

Hey Gus, if I had stuck with my stock frame I was looking into getting this kit from Global West. I think UMI has something similar in the works too.
http://www.globalwest.net/cof-42-che...tcoilover.html
You mentioned the ABC mini tub kit, it now comes with shock mount bar and lower brackets.
http://www.abcperformance.net/mini%20tub%20kit.html
I would box the frame too, ABC has a kit.
Mike I have a sliding budget scale! Lately it has been shrinking, and since I have one in college and another in Jr High my GTO fund is always under attack!
I hope to get a lot done before it disappears.

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus,

I hear you about saving money... which is why I attempted to do the body work and paint myself. I had the body acid dipped, and zinc coated. So, the average paint quote was around $25k! Because no one would touch it, unless they did the body work too. Understandable. As we all know, the body shops start to add on from there, let alone take their precious time. So, what the hell... I'll do it myself. It has some minor flaws, including one mosquito, which I'm leaving in the paint for characters sake. But, I've already had some experts in our hobby stop by, and they're stunned that I did it in my garage and have ZERO orange peel.

Anyway, back to your suspension question. I went with Global West Front and Rear Coilover set up, with Wilwood discs (13" rear, 14" front). Unfortunately, I didn't know that the adjustable A arms that you and Eric have even existed. So, I get the joy of laboring with shims, but the geometry is corrected, as pointed out by your expert Mark. The front struts are double adjustable QA1's, the rear's are Penske's with external reservoir. I also have full spherical bearings, and adjustable upper arms in the rear as well as Delrin inserts in the trailing arms. That said, here's a picture of the rear. Note the struts are now vertical, which requires a lot of welding on the frame, and the rear axle. If you're considering a brand new rear end, I know that Strange Engineering will provide the appropriate bracketry, so you don't have to do it. My welding looks like crap, because I've never done that before either. Been an interesting learning curve...

Talk soon...

Hey Mike. Thanks for the info and great pics. I purchased the mini tub and frame boxing kit from ABC but I held off purchasing their bolt in coil over conversion kit since I like the idea of the inherent strength in a welded setup..I have read that keeping the shocks vertical is the best setup. Full spherical bearing make a lot of sense. Will probably go that route also.

I wish I had your fearlessness on paint and body work. $25k? holy price gouging batman! Fortunately, I have a body shop I have been dealing with for years that will guide me through the diy work and take over when I can't go any further and, if needed, fix my screw ups. And, he's VERY reasonable. They do classics and musclecar jobs all the time along with standard repairs (They have been fixing my familiy's vehicular mishaps for years!) Kudos to you for having the guts to diy. Man, the results are spectacular. And I when I read about the mosquito!

Man your brake setup looks sweet!! Those wilwoods look killer. I look forward to your report on how they (and the rest of your suspension goodies for that matter) work. Mark touts the baer setup.. a bit less expensive and have been proven in our a-bodies..as we agreed on, $ is always a factor (what budget?!) But if the wilwoods offer more bang for the $, will go that route. Already have their manual master cylinder off of my smashed up 'vert.

Tony G. at ABC was preparing to test the wilwoods last year but I haven't seen anything on his fb or website indicating he came to an agreement with the wilwood rep. Since my car will be black metallic, the black setup will look very cool and mean.

Yeah, Mark gave me the heads up on adjustable a-arms. But the promise of a coilover setup from SC&C is still missing from their website, so perhaps the global west co's would be a good option. You got some good stuff under there!! Question: I hear the slotted rotors are good but cross drilled rotors tend to crack at the holes when stressed. Any truth to that? I see you got cross drilled AND slotted. Curious about your thought process here, when you have a chance (and you've had some sleep!)

Thanks again for your input. Always appreciated Mike

['71cutlasluvr]

Hey Gus, if I had stuck with my stock frame I was looking into getting this kit from Global West. I think UMI has something similar in the works too.
http://www.globalwest.net/cof-42-che...tcoilover.html
You mentioned the ABC mini tub kit, it now comes with shock mount bar and lower brackets.
http://www.abcperformance.net/mini%20tub%20kit.html
I would box the frame too, ABC has a kit.
Mike I have a sliding budget scale! Lately it has been shrinking, and since I have one in college and another in Jr High my GTO fund is always under attack!
I hope to get a lot done before it disappears.

Hey Eric. That's a great idea from global west to allow more shock travel during aggressive driving. Didn't even know that existed. Thanks!!

I did get the mini tub kit but don't remember if it came with the shock mount bar and lower brackets. Gotta open the box and see! Will open box tonight since I dragged it out last night after a winter hibernation. I did get the boxing kit also after talking to Tony for quite a spell.

My daughters recent wedding has put me waaaay behind in my progress, and I'm just talking about the actual work on the car. Have been out in the detached garage sweating my butt off the last two nights installing new flourescent lighting I purchased last fall. Had every intention of doing the install before now, but as most things when family takes priority, the lights were forgotten. But man, these things are BRIGHT! They put my 18 year old units to shame (the ones that still work anyway!) If anyone is looking to upgrade their old worn out lights, this is the way to go. Tried to but can't post the link since I'm using my auto repair shops computer. Will post here later if anyone is interested. Only available at home depot.. Lithonia 4 light unit for about $70. uses T5 high outputs bulbs. Gonna buy one more today. I bought a box of T5HO's from one of the online bulb stores. Can''t remember what I paid but got a box of about 25 reasonable. These bulbs supposedly have a 100,000 hour life.... seems a bit optimistic but we shall see. AND, they operate in very cold weather. I had installed one last fall and I can attest that after a brief warmup, they are just as bright in the cold as they are in the warm.

The reason for the focus on getting the old garage properly lit is I had planned on doing the frame mods in the new garage but the floor is not very level compared to the old garage due to a mishap during the pour. So I will sacrifice air conditioned comfort for a level work surface. I'll post a few pics of the new lights in action later.

Budget?? We don't NEED not stinking budget!!

Well company car is done so gotta hit the road. Thanks again guys for your input and continued support. Your willingness to share your expertise sure makes an amatuer car crafter like myself feel a bit more confident about his project and seeing your pics does wonders for my motivation.

[Fastmonty]

Gus,

I agree with Eric, get the Global West Tall strut set up. Unfortunately, they came out with that about six months after I bought my set up. Oh well... I'll make mine work, just fine. When you call Global West, ask for Eric, and let him know Mike in San Diego, with the GTO, recommended you call him. I got the Willwood's from them too. They even mounted the front rotors and calipers on powder coated spindles, of my choosing.

To drill, or not to drill, is a long ongoing debate with everyone in the big brake world. In my opinion, it depends on how well the holes are machined. If the hole edges are not rounded or chamfered appropriately, it will lead to stress build up at that spot. Therefore leading to cracking. That said, routine inspection is always recommended on hard use rotors, and cracking is somewhat easy to see. That said, notice how my rotors are painted black? The pads will wear the black off the brake surface, where the holes and slots will remain black. Kind of a cool way to prevent oxidation. (I had Baer brakes on a prior project where the rotors were bare metal... it looks nasty when the slots, holes, and vents start to oxidize.) Again, the above is just my engineering opinion.

Great to hear you have a reliable body guy lined up that'll coach you and take over to spray. At least if I scratch or dent my car, I'll now know how to fix it.

I hope to get some progress done this weekend, in between naps, etc...

Talk soon, Mike

['71cutlasluvr]

Gus,

I agree with Eric, get the Global West Tall strut set up. Unfortunately, they came out with that about six months after I bought my set up. Oh well... I'll make mine work, just fine. When you call Global West, ask for Eric, and let him know Mike in San Diego, with the GTO, recommended you call him. I got the Willwood's from them too. They even mounted the front rotors and calipers on powder coated spindles, of my choosing.

To drill, or not to drill, is a long ongoing debate with everyone in the big brake world. In my opinion, it depends on how well the holes are machined. If the hole edges are not rounded or chamfered appropriately, it will lead to stress build up at that spot. Therefore leading to cracking. That said, routine inspection is always recommended on hard use rotors, and cracking is somewhat easy to see. That said, notice how my rotors are painted black? The pads will wear the black off the brake surface, where the holes and slots will remain black. Kind of a cool way to prevent oxidation. (I had Baer brakes on a prior project where the rotors were bare metal... it looks nasty when the slots, holes, and vents start to oxidize.) Again, the above is just my engineering opinion.

Great to hear you have a reliable body guy lined up that'll coach you and take over to spray. At least if I scratch or dent my car, I'll now know how to fix it.

I hope to get some progress done this weekend, in between naps, etc...

Talk soon, Mike

Hey Mike

Thanks for the detailed response and the contact name at Global west. I appreciate it. The point about oxidation is a good one. Yeah, I can imagine how the baer's look as the holes oxidize. And there's no easy way to clean 'em up either. Going with the black was very smart on your part. However, my spindle situation is a bit different... The tall spindle setup from SC&C have oversized ZR1 corvette ready bearings as part of a promotion I fell into when I placed my order with Mark. So hopefully Wilwood sells a big brake setup like yours that's compatible with the Corvette's caliper bolt pattern and tall spindle setup that have been engineered into my components. It will be a while before funds are available or the need for the brakes to be installed will be a necessity, but thank you so much for the food for thought. Great ideas!

I am finding that as time goes by, more and more great ideas and innovations are popping up for our a-bodies. But then I think that maybe I should wait a while longer to see what else comes down the pike... but then nothing gets done. Such a conundrum, eh?

btw: The light setup I'm using is this one, if anyone is still interested.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-...10PS/202516724

Will post pics during the weekend of lights and my cutting progress on the 442.

Enjoy your weekend Mike. Good luck on getting some project work done AND some sleep!
Take care,
Gus

[Rebel 6]

Awesome thread, doing a similar project on a 69 I bought as a kid back in 87'. I'm anxious to see a side shot of the US Mag wheels on your car. I've been agonizing over rims for a long time and it's time for me to make a decision. The Bandits are one of the final couple rims I'm deciding between. Unfortunately there just aren't many good pictures of the higher end version on the Bandit rims on A bodies in 19's out there. How is the fit and finish on them? How long did you have to wait to get them? Any idea when you'll have pictures of them mounted on your car?
Great projects everyone.