WildBlue goes RideTech

[GeoffP]

The fixture came with mine so that wasn't a problem. I mocked it up as shown in the instructions and it left almost a 1/4" of gap between the tab and the axle tube on the outer tab. The inner tab is tall enough that it is holding the outer tab off the axle tube with everything mocked up.

[Quickboat]

The fixture came with mine so that wasn't a problem. I mocked it up as shown in the instructions and it left almost a 1/4" of gap between the tab and the axle tube on the outer tab. The inner tab is tall enough that it is holding the outer tab off the axle tube with everything mocked up.

You cannot fill a 1/4 inch very well and make it look good IMO. I called ridetech and they are going to send me the fixture, but it should have been in my kit in the first place. WTH?

[GeoffP]

Nope - lots of grinding in my future to make it fit right. I don't know if the tabs were made for a 9" or some other axle but they don't match up very well on a 12 bolt. Mine's from a 67 Camaro so maybe aftermarket uses different axle tube diameters? Dunno

[Rod]

pictures! I need more pictures!!!!! ha ha ha ha ha ha

[GeoffP]

Yah I've been lazy on the picture taking - I'll have to get some after church tonight. Right now the car looks like a Redneck mobile with the wheels and tires on it and the rear jacked up in the air 3-4 feet.

[GeoffP]

"Hi My name's Geoff and I have a gap."

[makoshark]

I'd say so!! Might wanna rethink your tire selection. I think you need a larger tire in there to fit that lifted fourby look

The ridetech upper link tabs do have a bit of a gap. They are a one-size fits all sorta deal. It's no big deal though. Once welded in, they fit fine.

[GeoffP]

Haha - it looked too funny not to share!

I'm going to start working on fitting the tabs to the axle tomorrow night. Tonight's progress consisted of getting the fuel pump and filter "panel" mounted. I had to move it to clear the 4 link cradle. Unfortunately it's now in the way of installing a rear sway bar if I decide to buy one later. The car really needs a new fuel tank so maybe a fuel tank with an internal pump, sway bar, and a few odds/ends will be on next Winter's upgrade list. Next year's list definitely won't be as long as this year's was!

So, back to the progress for tonight, I had to re-run some of the return lines because of the relocation and the pressure line isn't long enough to reach to the new location either. I've got a few feet of braided stainless Earls -6 line and some -6 fittings so I just cut out the portion of the line that was running over the axle and am going to mate it together with a -6 conversion fitting from the metal line to the Earls line. I hope it doesn't end up causing my garage to smell. If it does, I'll replace the hole metal pressure line from the tank to the engine Saturday. Hope it doesn't because I don't want to waste time going to Augusta to get a roll of line from Auto Zone.

You can see where the line was run in the picture above where it's hanging down in case you're curious!

That's it for now!

[GeoffP]

Duplicate post - I think the forum is having DB problems. It sure is running slow when posting messages. I've gotten quite a few DB errors over the last couple of weeks too.

[GeoffP]

I got the fuel system reassembled and started the car tonight. It's to the point where all that's left is to weld the tabs on for the upper link bars, bleed the brakes, set the toe and take it for a short test drive. I'm happy to say that I FINALLY got one of my friends to come help me out with the welding. He's bringing his 220v welder over tomorrow to do the welding. Anybody got any tricks to get the axle centered and at ride height?? Also I figured the tabs out. It turns out the instruction are confusing about which one goes where. I played with them until I figured out which combination fits the axle without grinding. Hopefully I'll have more tomorrow!!

[Quickboat]

I think the instructions leave to be desired, but some of the other manufacturers have better ones that can be applicable to our kit. ;-)
Ride height is done with the spring perch and spanner wrench, housing centering is done with upper arm adjustments, I believe.

[makoshark]

I noticed you mentioned running braided fuel lines. Are you aware of what the new fuels are doing to older technology lines?

[GeoffP]

I hadn't thought about looking up the instructions from another vendor. I assume you're talking about Alston? Sounds like you're making some progress too! Any pictures of how you have the car and axle suspended to center and weld everything?

Makoshark - yes, I know how ethanol (crapanol more like it) causes lines to swell over time. I've dealt with it on my weedeater, lawnmower, 4 wheeler (should I go on?)... I plan to run non-eth gas in my car once I run this tank out. I had the opportunity to run non-ethanol in my truck recently and noticed a pretty dramatic improvement in mileage and power. I saw over 14 MPG average for the very first time. It never gets over 12 with ethanol gas. Thankfully the federal mandate for ethanol gas has been lifted so more and more stations are going back to selling non-ethanol gas. The local gas company has it at the main office so it's no biggie for me thankfully!

[makoshark]

Yes, non-ethanol gas does burn better which results in better fuel mileage. I noticed the difference in mileage in my vehicles when that crap came out. I was not aware of the federal mandate being lifted. That is good news! I have yards of braided line and fittings here just sitting in a box. Maybe I can use it!

As far as setting up the rear suspension, I had mine sitting on jack stands, car and rear diff. Each on separate stands, of course.

[GeoffP]

Dang - must've heard that report on the radio wrong. It seems that the mandate is just under fire to be repealed due to high corn prices from last year's drought. It's driving fuel prices up due to the low corn yield. So maybe that's why I'm seeing more gas stations with non-ethanol gas because the mandate is still in place apparently. (Boo!!!)

[GeoffP]

Question for you guys who are following my build: Did the cradle for your 4-link have two tabs on the front bar that mount to the pinch weld between the trunk floor and the floor pan? The two tabs have 3 holes each that take short 3/8" bolts. Looking at the other competitive 4-links I saw where guys are adding a front cross bar similar to ridetech's bar. I like the extra mounting points.

[orange69]

when your freind is welding your tabs on your rearend have him weld your cradle tabs on outside of frame where they wrap under the frame i did mine that way i think it was good move.

[Quickboat]

Geoff, I have just finished welding in my outer wheel houses. Next will be putting the ridetech carriage in place and drilling holes to insert the nut-certs I will be using instead of self tapping screws. Then my trunk floor needs to be welded in. I just got my 12 bolt tubes nickle welded last night so I am working in a couple of different directions. My 12 bolt wont be ready to mock up till next week some time because I need to weld on the big bearing ends and lower brackets first.

[GeoffP]

Yah I was thinking while he's here to put some welds on the cradle too.

Jim do you have a build thread going - would love to see some pictures. Mine really needs some metal work but I'm too busy enjoying it to care at this point!

[Quickboat]

Yah I was thinking while he's here to put some welds on the cradle too.

Jim do you have a build thread going - would love to see some pictures. Mine really needs some metal work but I'm too busy enjoying it to care at this point!

I have a build thread on TC but all of those mods are being updated again to run with this crowd. ;-)

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201005

I was talking to a structural engineer at work and he said that your tru bolting of the frame rail is 300 percent stronger then a bolt thru the single side of the frame rail. So it would be LOADS stronger than just threading into the one side or the rail.