69 chevelle track/autocross build

[pt2285]

starting this thread for other looking to do a 68-72 gm a body. i got this car when i was 14 in 1998. i worked all summer to buy parts and got some items as giofts along the way. i drove it all senior year until it caught on fire on the engine bay. flash forward 4 years to when i finally re did the wiring and drove it for a few years until the tree in front of dads house fell on top of it (chidley vs the city of covina turned out to be a loss and cities are not responsible in a storm). i patched it up and drove it until one superbowl i won some $$ in a pool and wanted to do a 700r4 swap with my winnings. that 700r4 swap turned into a full tear down and full build. so here are some pictures and i can answer some questions and update along the way.
69 chevelle
boxed and powdered frame
LS3 525/376 crate engine
6l80 e trans
currie full floater rear end
tanks efi fuel tank
SC&C full suspension package with ATS/AFX spindles
Baer brakes
custom wheels by hot rod by boyd w/ nitto 555 (255/40 front 295/45 rear). side not chris coddington is SUPER cool.

currently building trans tunnel

[68Vell]

What engine mounts and trans crossmember did you use.

[pt2285]

holley stock location mounts and i had an F body after market trans mount laying around so when we boxed the frame we welded tabs for that. i bough the LS before the 6l80 idea. and i dont want to re buy mounts, but if i did it over i would prob move the engine forward 1in with the dirty dingo or holley mounts.

[pt2285]

built trans tunnel today.

[Motown 454]

Nice Project! Looking good.

[68Vell]

Even with the dirty dingo or Holley mounts the tunnel has to be cut correct? I'm doing his same trans in my 68, what shifter are you using,sorry for all the questions but I haven't seen anyone else doing this,and I only want to do it once

[68Vell]

will you still have to cut the tunnel if you move the engine forward 1"? And what shifter are you using,sorry for all the questions but I'm doing the same set up,

[68Vell]

Didn't know it posted twice,lol

[jesterdcv]

Count me as subscribed. I am putting a LS/6L80 into a 68 GTO. Why would you want to move the engine forward with different mounts? My thought is to use the same mounts (Hooker/Holley) in stock location to keep the engine back and improve the weight bias.

[pt2285]

i pretty sure i didnt cut my tunnel wrong, but the 6l80 hugs the drivers side more than the passenger. and there is a budge in the casing you have to hook around in the back toward the rear. also the bell housing a bit closer on the drivers side. all this cuts into the area for the gas pedal so im gonna have to build a bracket for it. but i did just find a gear on here and ls1tech who makes the pedal brackets. so by moving the engine forward 1in it looks like you wont have to cut toward the driver as much to make room for the bell housing. one huge thing im learning quick welding in the tunnel is that #1. search ebay for the guy who makes the T56 tunnels because the t56 and the 6l80 are not far off in size. and #2 make sure all the paint/ rubber backing/glue/ etc is grinded/sanded off the entire area. welding this tunnel in and that **** smokes like crazy when it gets hot. even the under coating.

shifter i have from speartech, its a stock piece from a gto i think.. or cts-v... speartech has been the **** and they are amazing people. they know me by name for all the crazy questions ive asked them....

[pt2285]

i dont think moving forward 1 in with an LS engine would change the weight that much.. i see your idea on this but with all the weight your losing out of the front maybe that 1 in might help.... i kept my stock location.

[pt2285]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T56-Swap-Tra...VXmrVl&vxp=mtr

[68Vell]

Thanks man I'm following you closely, this trans seems like a b@#$% to get in, I'm kinda thinking of the 4l80 and not worry about all this cutting,

[pt2285]

Its not that bad, it's just a lot of hacking . I finished up the tunnel today. I ended up making little side skirts to cover the sides and welded them in. Then I went underneath and cut the floor pan material overhangs long ways like strips and hammered them up against the tunnel. Pretty much the same way as the t56 tunnel guys. welded that all in and use the metal infused bondo smooth it out and fill in any cracks. On the top side at the rear of the tunnel, I fiberglassed the rear of tunnel to the floor pan to seal it.. and grinder and flap disc are your friend, also I've never welded before ever but I taught my self on this..... 2 cans of 3m rubberized under coating and boom it's done. There is a Giant transmission and carpet. No one is gonna see your short comings.

[analyte]

Depending on how agressive you want to attack AutoX and road courses, I will suggest that you call other suspension providers with your goals.

I started with the SC&C setup with Varishocks, and it proved to be less than satisfactory when driven hard. They just didn't have the range needed to adjust the car to where it needed to be, and none of the serious drivers were using the parts so not much help at the track either. In the end, both front shocks were busted after one year and 2800 miles of 50/50 highway and track.



I swapped everything last year for ridetech after talking to everyone about my goals. I'm very pleased with the new setup, and I expect to be much more competitive this year.

Kerry

[68Vell]

Thanks, believe me I'm following you close, I have a 68 with the same set up,how much higher is your hump maybe a 1" higher than stock now ? and what ecu are you using.

[Sean Cooke]

Great Build, have you ever thought about mini tubbing the rear while you can still get the body on and off??

[shortrack]

I have to go to the chiropractor now...

[pt2285]

Depending on how agressive you want to attack AutoX and road courses, I will suggest that you call other suspension providers with your goals.

I started with the SC&C setup with Varishocks, and it proved to be less than satisfactory when driven hard. They just didn't have the range needed to adjust the car to where it needed to be, and none of the serious drivers were using the parts so not much help at the track either. In the end, both front shocks were busted after one year and 2800 miles of 50/50 highway and track.

I swapped everything last year for ridetech after talking to everyone about my goals. I'm very pleased with the new setup, and I expect to be much more competitive this year.

Kerry

I found Matt to be a bit of pain. I understand the design of the spc stuff. Ride tech just seems very off the shelf to me to be that good... I'm gonna run this and see how I like it.

- - - Updated - - -

Great Build, have you ever thought about mini tubbing the rear while you can still get the body on and off??

Spent so much time measuring the offset I'm fine. Plus I'm tired of welding.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks, believe me I'm following you close, I have a 68 with the same set up,how much higher is your hump maybe a 1" higher than stock now ? and what ecu are you using.

Yeah I'd say about 1-1 1/2 inch. And then further back maybe 3-4 in.

[analyte]

Depending on how agressive you want to attack AutoX and road courses, I will suggest that you call other suspension providers with your goals.

I started with the SC&C setup with Varishocks, and it proved to be less than satisfactory when driven hard. They just didn't have the range needed to adjust the car to where it needed to be, and none of the serious drivers were using the parts so not much help at the track either. In the end, both front shocks were busted after one year and 2800 miles of 50/50 highway and track.

I swapped everything last year for ridetech after talking to everyone about my goals. I'm very pleased with the new setup, and I expect to be much more competitive this year.

Kerry

I found Matt to be a bit of pain. I understand the design of the spc stuff. Ride tech just seems very off the shelf to me to be that good... I'm gonna run this and see how I like it.

I didn't deal with Matt so I'm not sure what took place there. Keep in mind that everything is off the shelf, and there is a difference in range and adjustability.

Nonetheless, I hope you have better luck than I did with that setup and I hope to see you out there on the track having fun.