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    Results 21 to 30 of 30
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by analyte View Post
      I didn't deal with Matt so I'm not sure what took place there. Keep in mind that everything is off the shelf, and there is a difference in range and adjustability.



      Nonetheless, I hope you have better luck than I did with that setup and I hope to see you out there on the track having fun.
      in would say 90% of my reluctance is due to those shocks and springs where such a pain in the dick to get in, its not coming out until it breaks.


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      status update. got the radiator and front end on recently. also are pictures of the parts #s for the radiator hoses. Name:  IMG_6037.jpg
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    3. #23
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,665
      Country Flag: United States
      Does that drive belt actually rest again the throttle body in final assembly?
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      Does that drive belt actually rest again the throttle body in final assembly?
      no, but its damn close. it wont hit but there are some problems in the vintage air instructions. the vintage kit is easy to install if you have done one before because their instructions suck ass. measure out your hoses before you pass them through the firewall and have them crimped. because once they are in they wont come out easy. also the vintage kit mounts the compressor on the pass side like a 68. so you install like a 69 only to realize you did like 40 min of BS work you didnt have to do and now take it apart. triple check your condenser is the right way 1st time. and then as far as the belt and throttle body you need to swap the tensioner pulley for the idler pulley so the smooth one is on the bottom. vintage air wont say this, you have to call the nice guy @ KWIK to get that answer. i would say once you install 1 kit your an expert on it because its frustrating as all hell. it could also be that i dont read directions, but then again im a dude.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,665
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by pt2285 View Post
      no, but its damn close. it wont hit but there are some problems in the vintage air instructions. the vintage kit is easy to install if you have done one before because their instructions suck ass. measure out your hoses before you pass them through the firewall and have them crimped. because once they are in they wont come out easy. also the vintage kit mounts the compressor on the pass side like a 68. so you install like a 69 only to realize you did like 40 min of BS work you didnt have to do and now take it apart. triple check your condenser is the right way 1st time. and then as far as the belt and throttle body you need to swap the tensioner pulley for the idler pulley so the smooth one is on the bottom. vintage air wont say this, you have to call the nice guy @ KWIK to get that answer. i would say once you install 1 kit your an expert on it because its frustrating as all hell. it could also be that i dont read directions, but then again im a dude.
      I think it has to do with the way Kwik performance does it vs Vintage Air with the pulleys. My Holley accessory brackets state the tensioner is smooth and the idler is grooved. Or it could be you didn't read the directions...lol

      You got off easy with 4 straight hose runs. I have the firewall bulkhead with requires 2 separate sets of the 4 hoses being measured, clocked and crimped. One set from bulkhead to compressor/water pump, other set from bulkhead to evaporator. The VA instructions could use a little help, but for the most part I figured them out after reading at least twice.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      I think it has to do with the way Kwik performance does it vs Vintage Air with the pulleys. My Holley accessory brackets state the tensioner is smooth and the idler is grooved. Or it could be you didn't read the directions...lol

      You got off easy with 4 straight hose runs. I have the firewall bulkhead with requires 2 separate sets of the 4 hoses being measured, clocked and crimped. One set from bulkhead to compressor/water pump, other set from bulkhead to evaporator. The VA instructions could use a little help, but for the most part I figured them out after reading at least twice.
      exactly.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      project update.. the msd starter is right up on the header.. i think it should be.. when i pull it back off im gonna pound the header a little for clearance. Name:  IMG_6159.jpg
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    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
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      mounting the oil and power steering coolers off the vintage air condenser. these should sit right below the openings on the chevelle bumper for air flow and the ends over hang just enough to drill/tap the radiator support to sink a bolt with spacer right into. this also adds support to the condenser. when the bumper goes on i should be able to get some angle iron or some metal to make a bracket to support the bottom of the coolers to the bumper for additional support.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      went back and forth on bracket for the DBW pedal, ended up using some button head bolts with a larger beauty washer and a 1 1/2 spacer directly to the fire wall. pedal is super solid and where it should be. Name:  IMG_6197.jpg
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    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      What shifter and linkage did you use...also do you mind sending me your email

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