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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      holley stock location mounts and i had an F body after market trans mount laying around so when we boxed the frame we welded tabs for that. i bough the LS before the 6l80 idea. and i dont want to re buy mounts, but if i did it over i would prob move the engine forward 1in with the dirty dingo or holley mounts.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      Even with the dirty dingo or Holley mounts the tunnel has to be cut correct? I'm doing his same trans in my 68, what shifter are you using,sorry for all the questions but I haven't seen anyone else doing this,and I only want to do it once

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      will you still have to cut the tunnel if you move the engine forward 1"? And what shifter are you using,sorry for all the questions but I'm doing the same set up,

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      Didn't know it posted twice,lol

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      i pretty sure i didnt cut my tunnel wrong, but the 6l80 hugs the drivers side more than the passenger. and there is a budge in the casing you have to hook around in the back toward the rear. also the bell housing a bit closer on the drivers side. all this cuts into the area for the gas pedal so im gonna have to build a bracket for it. but i did just find a gear on here and ls1tech who makes the pedal brackets. so by moving the engine forward 1in it looks like you wont have to cut toward the driver as much to make room for the bell housing. one huge thing im learning quick welding in the tunnel is that #1. search ebay for the guy who makes the T56 tunnels because the t56 and the 6l80 are not far off in size. and #2 make sure all the paint/ rubber backing/glue/ etc is grinded/sanded off the entire area. welding this tunnel in and that **** smokes like crazy when it gets hot. even the under coating.

      shifter i have from speartech, its a stock piece from a gto i think.. or cts-v... speartech has been the **** and they are amazing people. they know me by name for all the crazy questions ive asked them....

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      Thanks man I'm following you closely, this trans seems like a b@#$% to get in, I'm kinda thinking of the 4l80 and not worry about all this cutting,

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      Its not that bad, it's just a lot of hacking . I finished up the tunnel today. I ended up making little side skirts to cover the sides and welded them in. Then I went underneath and cut the floor pan material overhangs long ways like strips and hammered them up against the tunnel. Pretty much the same way as the t56 tunnel guys. welded that all in and use the metal infused bondo smooth it out and fill in any cracks. On the top side at the rear of the tunnel, I fiberglassed the rear of tunnel to the floor pan to seal it.. and grinder and flap disc are your friend, also I've never welded before ever but I taught my self on this..... 2 cans of 3m rubberized under coating and boom it's done. There is a Giant transmission and carpet. No one is gonna see your short comings.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Posts
      8
      Thanks, believe me I'm following you close, I have a 68 with the same set up,how much higher is your hump maybe a 1" higher than stock now ? and what ecu are you using.




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