1994 Mustang GT Pro-Touring

[Peter R]

nice, where would i buy frame rails like this? what size,dimension,thickness? would be possible just to weld in a already made backhalf rail, what I see is used for drag racer?

I used 2"x3" tubing, I don't remember what thickness but could check if you want. I use Central Iron in Grand Rapids, they have great prices and have new and used steel. They will even cut stuff to length if needed. You could get a back half kit, that would give you more adjustablity but would probably be more work to install and more expensive. I'm on a budget so I am making what I can, the trade off is that it is taking forever to build.

[Peter R]

the right mount with the 10 holes, did you just weld that onto the new frame rail, how did u figure out exactly where to weld it? where did u buy it or did u build it, if so how.

The black pan hard rod thats welded onto that mount then appears to go the left upper new frame rail? where exactly on the rail did you weld that? thanks

The panhard mount is also 2"x3" tube left over from the frame rails. The part with holes is just 1/4" flat stock I drilled holes and welded to the 2"x3" tube. I got the idea from some pictures I found on line. I would give the guy credit but I can't find it now. I made the mount on the axel first than just lined up the mount for the other side.

[Peter R]

Where could I get such a cool, pan rod with anodized red heim joints, whats the length,thickness of the rod?

The serrated mount I found by searching "NASCAR panhard mount" It wasn't very expensive. The rod ends are aluminum QA1. The panhard bar is also aluminum, I can't remember if it was also QA1 or someone else. The rod comes in different lengths. I just measured what Length I needed after I had the mounts made.

[Peter R]

is this where you got the nascar mount? it says it come with the SERRATED FLOATER, where did u find that? or could i just go to the hardware store and buy a small serrated plate and or block or do i have to find something specific like http://www.ubmachine.com/serratedblocks.html

http://www.2040-parts.com/new-nascar...mount-i408564/

Your second link is the one I bought. I paid much more on that bay site though. I cut that little extra piece off of mine. Thanks for the link. I wanted to have the other side serrated as well but decided on the holes because it was cheaper and easier.

[Peter R]

Time for more picutres.

[Peter R]

[Peter R]

[Peter R]

Adding a drain

[Peter R]

I wish I had better hand writing

[Peter R]

I wanted the tank vent to stay above fuel level so I had to go through the frame rail.

[drivefaster80]

thanks this helps me understand better, will check if they ship to Canada or try to find some local Canadian equivalent company. what length aprox. of 2"x3" square tubing did you get?

[drivefaster80]

what length rear did you choose? I think u mentioned that it would have better to have gone with a shorter shock, so was it ok?

[groho]

Great job! Damn, I sooo need to buy a tig. . . . .Honey, are we doing xmas lists yet?

[drivefaster80]

Your second link is the one I bought. I paid much more on that bay site though. I cut that little extra piece off of mine. Thanks for the link. I wanted to have the other side serrated as well but decided on the holes because it was cheaper and easier.

right, but the serrated side rod end bolt is that a 5/8" bolt? and the flat square bare metal looking piece(or is it aluminum?) which I think would be called serrated blocks and plates that attaches the rod end to the serrated mount, did u make that or buy it? I'm assuming if you made it you had to cut-make the serrated parts? they sell and assortment of different sizes, which size did you choose?All UB serrated blocks and plates are 1/4" adjustment

46-1601-AC
46-1601-A 3/4" hole $11.75
46-1601-B 5/8" hole $11.75
46-1601-C 3/4" hole w/sides $17.10
46-1601-D 5/8" hole w/sides $17.10

[drivefaster80]

Those look nice but I'm going to try and reduce the amount of bodywork for now. I'm getting the itch to get this on the road. Next summer I hope to have it running NA then add a turbo when funds allow.

when u do have it running, your just going with 275 on 9" front with a humungus 345 on 12" rears, u might have some driveabilty problems, I know because I daily drive summer and part of spring still have em on now 295 on 10.5 with skinnies up front you know old school drag racing weld racing pro stars.

[drivefaster80]

I like those wheels and that is a good price. If you widen those 2" they would never fit unless you did some major mods. Wheel tubes, springs, frame rails ect.

That is pretty much what I did but my quad shocks and exhaust were already gone. After cutting out the wheel tub the frame rail was also in the way. I tried 3 different ways of modifying the frame rails then just cut them out completely and welded in new frame rails. I'll try to find some pictures of that. I am missing a bunch of pictures right now.

what about the lower control arms, are those in the way? are u going to relocate them? or make new ones in, in a new location?

[Peter R]

thanks this helps me understand better, will check if they ship to Canada or try to find some local Canadian equivalent company. what length aprox. of 2"x3" square tubing did you get?

I would look for a local place, shipping will cost more than the metal. I did a quick check and the 2x3 tube is .080" thick. The Frame rails are about 3' each, I ran 2 supports across and used some for the panhard mount. I probably used about 12' total. It was only a couple bucks a foot I believe.

[Peter R]

what length rear did you choose? I think u mentioned that it would have better to have gone with a shorter shock, so was it ok?

The shock travel is less with a shorter shock of course but it would have been easier to fit it in there. The shock mounts above the frame rails and is less than 1/2" from the wheel. I could have moved the shocks inward but it made more sense to me to have them as far outward as possible. I couldn't find the part number on the shocks. I'll measure them next time I'm crawling under neath it. I'm replacing the rear end flange with a strange unit and I haven't decided if I'm going to take a short cut or pull the rear end apart and replace the crush sleave. Either way I'll be under neath it again. I got it off blocks for the first time in forever! The car seems so little now.

One guess where I'm going to mount the ECU.


And after a hose down.

[Peter R]

Great job! Damn, I sooo need to buy a tig. . . . .Honey, are we doing xmas lists yet?

I love having a tig, I think mine is from the 70's and is the size of a small car but the price was right. I would love to have a larger mig, I am borrowing my brothers and it is only a 110 volt and it struggles with much more than sheet metal.

[Peter R]

right, but the serrated side rod end bolt is that a 5/8" bolt? and the flat square bare metal looking piece(or is it aluminum?) which I think would be called serrated blocks and plates that attaches the rod end to the serrated mount, did u make that or buy it? I'm assuming if you made it you had to cut-make the serrated parts? they sell and assortment of different sizes, which size did you choose?All UB serrated blocks and plates are 1/4" adjustment

46-1601-AC
46-1601-A 3/4" hole $11.75
46-1601-B 5/8" hole $11.75
46-1601-C 3/4" hole w/sides $17.10
46-1601-D 5/8" hole w/sides $17.10

I think the rod end bolt is 3/4" and the searated mount is 1", I will need a spacer. That little piece came with the serated mount when I bought mine. I didn't notice in your link that it was only one piece. I would keep looking for one that comes with both pieces so you don't have to fiddle with it. I did think about making some serated parts but I don't really have the equipment for it. Plus they can be found online for a decent price.