1994 Mustang GT Pro-Touring

[Peter R]

the right mount with the 10 holes, did you just weld that onto the new frame rail, how did u figure out exactly where to weld it? where did u buy it or did u build it, if so how.



The black pan hard rod thats welded onto that mount then appears to go the left upper new frame rail? where exactly on the rail did you weld that? thanks

The panhard mount is also 2"x3" tube left over from the frame rails. The part with holes is just 1/4" flat stock I drilled holes and welded to the 2"x3" tube. I got the idea from some pictures I found on line. I would give the guy credit but I can't find it now. I made the mount on the axel first than just lined up the mount for the other side.

[drivefaster80]

Where could I get such a cool, pan rod with anodized red heim joints, whats the length,thickness of the rod?

[Peter R]

Where could I get such a cool, pan rod with anodized red heim joints, whats the length,thickness of the rod?

The serrated mount I found by searching "NASCAR panhard mount" It wasn't very expensive. The rod ends are aluminum QA1. The panhard bar is also aluminum, I can't remember if it was also QA1 or someone else. The rod comes in different lengths. I just measured what Length I needed after I had the mounts made.

[drivefaster80]

The serrated mount I found by searching "NASCAR panhard mount" It wasn't very expensive. The rod ends are aluminum QA1. The panhard bar is also aluminum, I can't remember if it was also QA1 or someone else. The rod comes in different lengths. I just measured what Length I needed after I had the mounts made.

right but with the shiny aluminum panhard bar(swaged tubes) QA1 3/4" when the rod ends and jam nuts are tightened, installed whats the length from rod end eye to eye? wouldn't it be different from what one would choose from qa1 choices of length's? for example say I measure from mount to mount and get 24" so I order a 24" swaged tube but after adding the rod ends won't it be longer and not fit?

[drivefaster80]

so u just welded some plates to box it in and added a rod to support it?

[drivefaster80]

is this where you got the nascar mount? it says it come with the SERRATED FLOATER, where did u find that? or could i just go to the hardware store and buy a small serrated plate and or block or do i have to find something specific like http://www.ubmachine.com/serratedblocks.html

http://www.2040-parts.com/new-nascar...mount-i408564/

[Peter R]

is this where you got the nascar mount? it says it come with the SERRATED FLOATER, where did u find that? or could i just go to the hardware store and buy a small serrated plate and or block or do i have to find something specific like http://www.ubmachine.com/serratedblocks.html

http://www.2040-parts.com/new-nascar...mount-i408564/

Your second link is the one I bought. I paid much more on that bay site though. I cut that little extra piece off of mine. Thanks for the link. I wanted to have the other side serrated as well but decided on the holes because it was cheaper and easier.

[Peter R]

Time for more picutres.

[Peter R]

[drivefaster80]

Your second link is the one I bought. I paid much more on that bay site though. I cut that little extra piece off of mine. Thanks for the link. I wanted to have the other side serrated as well but decided on the holes because it was cheaper and easier.

right, but the serrated side rod end bolt is that a 5/8" bolt? and the flat square bare metal looking piece(or is it aluminum?) which I think would be called serrated blocks and plates that attaches the rod end to the serrated mount, did u make that or buy it? I'm assuming if you made it you had to cut-make the serrated parts? they sell and assortment of different sizes, which size did you choose?All UB serrated blocks and plates are 1/4" adjustment

46-1601-AC
46-1601-A 3/4" hole $11.75
46-1601-B 5/8" hole $11.75
46-1601-C 3/4" hole w/sides $17.10
46-1601-D 5/8" hole w/sides $17.10

[Peter R]

right, but the serrated side rod end bolt is that a 5/8" bolt? and the flat square bare metal looking piece(or is it aluminum?) which I think would be called serrated blocks and plates that attaches the rod end to the serrated mount, did u make that or buy it? I'm assuming if you made it you had to cut-make the serrated parts? they sell and assortment of different sizes, which size did you choose?All UB serrated blocks and plates are 1/4" adjustment

46-1601-AC
46-1601-A 3/4" hole $11.75
46-1601-B 5/8" hole $11.75
46-1601-C 3/4" hole w/sides $17.10
46-1601-D 5/8" hole w/sides $17.10

I think the rod end bolt is 3/4" and the searated mount is 1", I will need a spacer. That little piece came with the serated mount when I bought mine. I didn't notice in your link that it was only one piece. I would keep looking for one that comes with both pieces so you don't have to fiddle with it. I did think about making some serated parts but I don't really have the equipment for it. Plus they can be found online for a decent price.

[Peter R]

I wanted the tank vent to stay above fuel level so I had to go through the frame rail.

[groho]

Great job! Damn, I sooo need to buy a tig. . . . .Honey, are we doing xmas lists yet?

[Peter R]

Great job! Damn, I sooo need to buy a tig. . . . .Honey, are we doing xmas lists yet?

I love having a tig, I think mine is from the 70's and is the size of a small car but the price was right. I would love to have a larger mig, I am borrowing my brothers and it is only a 110 volt and it struggles with much more than sheet metal.

[Peter R]

This engine has 200k on it but they must have took care of it. I pulled a valve cover just to see how bad it looked. I was surprised how good it looked! I am not going to touch a thing on the engine for now. Just trying to get it on the road next summer.

[Peter R]

The outside of the engine was worse than the inside so I cleaned it a bit and hit it with some spray paint.





Painted the coils

[Peter R]

I have enjoyed every part of this build so far but I was really excited to rebuild the transmission. Installing a shift kit was the most I have done with a transmission before now. I got a good book and took my time and it went pretty good. I installed a trans go shift kit and HD sprag otherwise mostly a stock rebuild. I won’t know if i did it right until it get this running so I will keep my fingers crossed.
After rebuild before paint

Painted

[Peter R]

I was looking some used exhaust manifolds since the truck manifold will not clear the steering shaft and I found what I hope is a good deal on a Yank 3600 stall converter. I didn’t have the money for the converter I wanted to buy and was thinking of buying a cheap converter until I could afford a better one, but that felt like a waste of money. Then i saw this converter for sale. The guy said it was for an LS and TH400 and stall is what I wanted. Sure enough it bolts right up without any adapters or spacer. I have 1/8” between the converter and flexplate with the transmission installed which is about perfect.




I did some measuring while the engine was still in the car and it looked like it would be correct. I have heard to many different opions about which flywheel to use or what spacer is needed so I just measured what I had.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Looks good man. I've been contemplating an LS swap in one of my foxes. I may have missed it in the thread, what wiring/computer setup are you planning on using?

[Peter R]

Looks good man. I've been contemplating an LS swap in one of my foxes. I may have missed it in the thread, what wiring/computer setup are you planning on using?

I am going to run the stock PCM and wire harness to save money. I would love to go with Holley EFI but I don’t have the extra money. Plus you can make a ton of power with the stock computer.