WildBlue goes RideTech

[makoshark]

Yes, my upper links came preset at 9 1/4". I made shock simulators within the specified length per Ridetechs instructions which set ride height to my car. I rotated the pinion to the angle that I thought was correct and tack welded the upper link tabs to the rear diff.

[Quickboat]

Care to elaborate a bit further? I'm not quite following you with side to side level

If the axle is not level with the car when you weld on the upper tabs, the upper arms would not be welded in the same location side to side. Putting a fixture into the shock mounts of equal length would assure the side to side is equal.

[GeoffP]

Hmm...Jim I don't believe ridetech's instructions say anything about leveling the body/axle. I sure didn't do that and sure didn't think about it until now. It's possible it does say it and I just don't remember but, maybe that's why my axle ended up off center. A weld fixture sure would solve this problem (Are you guys at ridetech listening?)...

[makoshark]

Been a while, but I don't remember reading anything about the car being level. However, when doing suspension work like that, its really a given to do so. They did instruct to weld in fixtures at a specific length to set ride height and then weld on the upper tabs at the 9 1/4" upper link length.

[Rod]

page 3 of the airbar install Instructions, I know this because my first airbar install was offcenter also and I had to redo it (that was a pain in the AZZ) and now my 2nd install was perfect

13. Check the length of the upper bar; it
should be 9 ¼” C-C. Bolt the axle tabs
to the upper bar as shown in the picture.
Then place the other end into the cradle.
Both ends use a 5/8” x 2 3/4" and should
not be fully tightened yet. For now just
the let axle tabs sit on the axle.

14. Before welding these tabs to the
axle you will need to center the axle and
set pinion angle. We used a plum on the
outside of the quarter panel to center the
axle left to right. Setting the pinion angle
is explained on the next page. This
must be done at ride height.

[GeoffP]

Yah, I'm no fabricator. Next time (doubt there'll be a next time) I'll pay someone who knows what they're doing to do it. I may even end up paying someone to fix my car now since I really want it right. It may be awhile before I can do that though.

[Rod]

Yah, I'm no fabricator. Next time (doubt there'll be a next time) I'll pay someone who knows what they're doing to do it. I may even end up paying someone to fix my car now since I really want it right. It may be awhile before I can do that though.

Im no fabricator either, I just do it on the side for freinds, when I can squeeze it in between work, racing, wakeboarding, girlfriend, volunteer coaching youth hockey, sleeping and eating, and fixing my own crap! whew! I need a vaction

[GeoffP]

It's probably time to move on from the axle alignment topic - I don't want this thread to become a bashing thread in any way. I really like and respect the ridetech guys and don't want any of them thinking this thread has any association with bashing their company at all. I concede that I would love to have a welding fixture similar to Chassisworks' fixture and will probably buy one if they (ridetech) make it before I take the time to try to get my car's brackets attached properly. I can honestly say I have learned a lot about my car and chassis' in general from doing this work myself and from all the contributions you guys have made and for that I say, "Thank you!!" Since the car is basically done (for now), I'm pretty much going to stop posting in this thread unless I can add any contributions to the fitment of someone else's 4 link.

Thanks again guys!!

[makoshark]

You read my mind Geoff. I was hoping any of the great folks over at ridetech doesn't read this thread and think we are putting them down. I love their product and company. I'm just old

[Quickboat]

I have not heard any bashing really but an explaination of how the get this the axle welded in without and expert fab guy handy. A fixture sure would have been nice but not nessesary when thought out. I am putting a couple of links (struts) in place of the shocks simulating ride height which should be around 14.5" eye to eye. This should also center (level the axle) well enough to be able to set pinion angle and tack weld the upper tabs. Then if side to side center is needed an adjustment of the uppers is in order. I'll be taking pics when I get there...

[GeoffP]

I agree guys - I don't think any of us are bashing. I just didn't want any negative perception of such because I know at least one person from ridetech has been watching the thread. Saying this in addition to my other post, I encourage you guys to post your experience with welding the tabs on your respective 4 link install. I hope this info will help someone who may be in need of help with this install and that our input helps them out.

You two really helped me out - thanks!!

[GeoffP]

Two months later - no new changes to the car other than venting the fuel tank. I've been driving the car and am thinking about playing with the link bar adjustments some more to try to tune the pinion angle a little better. I'll have to lengthen the lower bars, hoping there's enough adjustment there to get the angle right so I can drive the car daily while my truck is apart to put a newer used engine in it. I've talked to someone to get the tabs redone in the right position through the internet and will probably be calling him next week to get details on what it'll cost. I would really like to have it fixed right before RTTH. I did buy an enclosed trailer since my last update above so it's not a huge deal if I don't get the tabs redone before RTTH.

[Quickboat]

Hey Geoff, we are glad you got to drive your car some. I have made progress and am close to ordering wheels and tires. I'll post a couple if pics. What a big job!

[GeoffP]

Looks great Jim!!! I wish mine was that nice but I still love it!

[Quickboat]

Looks great Jim!!! I wish mine was that nice but I still love it!

How do your tires hold up when you run your car?

[Quickboat]

Two months later - no new changes to the car other than venting the fuel tank. I've been driving the car and am thinking about playing with the link bar adjustments some more to try to tune the pinion angle a little better. I'll have to lengthen the lower bars, hoping there's enough adjustment there to get the angle right so I can drive the car daily while my truck is apart to put a newer used engine in it. I've talked to someone to get the tabs redone in the right position through the internet and will probably be calling him next week to get details on what it'll cost. I would really like to have it fixed right before RTTH. I did buy an enclosed trailer since my last update above so it's not a huge deal if I don't get the tabs redone before RTTH.

I wish we were closer, I would be happy to help you on the rear links...How are you going to lengthen the lowers? They are supposed to be fixed and the adjustment is the uppers...

[GeoffP]

Yah me too Jim - I would love to have someone as skilled as you close by! My lower links are fully adjustable so I just went for it. I marked the links and turned them 8 full turns each while checking the angle as I turned. I think I got it within about a 1/2 degree. It was hard to tell because I had to lay under the car and read the angle gauge upside down. I would love to get it onto a drive on lift as that would make it super easy to adjust. Doing this is obviously not ideal but it at least makes the ride tolerable until I can get it fixed right. I drove it down the road several miles up to about 70 MPH and I'd say I got about 95% of the vibration gone. I can still feel it slightly and hear it some but I think the solid links may be conducting the sound into the car. I'm also not sure the driveshaft is balanced because it's the original shaft from the car that I had shortened to fit with the T56. It's always had a minor vibration so it may just be the shaft at this point.

I'm curious about one thing - I noticed the gear whine was NOTICEABLY less after I adjusted the pinion angle. Any idea why? The gear whine was almost unbearable before I adjusted the pinion angle and now it's fairly tolerable. Weird...

Don't remember if I posted this but my rear axle has a used 4.10:1 gear set in it. It has always whined according to my brother who had it installed about 15 years ago.

[makoshark]

What brand rear gears are they? Rear diff gears, if setup properly, are not suppose to make noise. The internet conjecture is that Richmond gears whine, but that is not true in the real world. If they whine, they are not setup properly.

[Quickboat]

Geoff, if setup properly I agree with Mako, there should be very little noise coming from it even 4.11's..I think the reason you made the noise better was relief of link binding. With the links under tension (bind) they transfer vibration easier. There are a lot of harmonics going on in a vehicle, all of which when adjusted correctly create music!

[GeoffP]

How do your tires hold up when you run your car?

They're holding up decently well but I don't think I will replace them with another set of Sport Comp 2's after several recommendations that they don't work well on short track autocross, which is what I like most. They stick great on a long track but I just don't have the nerve to drive my car that hard on a long track to be fast enough to be competitive. The thought of sliding into a wall if I screw up doesn't appeal to me!