WildBlue goes RideTech

[GeoffP]

I finally got a message from Alston:

Unfortunately our fixture will only with the the second generation gBar and gLink. The geometry is different so it would put the brackets in the wrong place. I believe ridetech is building their version in house.
Sorry I can't be more help.



This is disappointing especially when it clearly says in their instructions that the fixture will work with ALL versions of the gBar and gLink. Oh well - I wish someone made a fixture. Obviously Moser has a fixture of some sort since they are able to put the upper link brackets on a new housing without fitting the axle to a car every time.

[GeoffP]

Ok on to happier topics - I got the car back from the alignment shop this afternoon. It drives completely different now. The toe wasn't bad off but the caster was on one side, enough to make it drive "funny" That's all gone now. I can't believe the improvement - the car finally feels like I wanted it to when I bought it years ago!

I think I've found someone who can get my pinion angle problem fixed in a few weeks so if all goes well I'll have it fixed by the end of May barring complications.

My next post should be with results of how the car did after the DSE event this weekend!

[WICKED_SS]

Good luck this weekend! lots of pics and vids plz!

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

Hi Geoff,
I really enjoyed our back and forth conversation through the Chassisworks Facebook page. I recognized the name of your car so I decided to pop in here and check up on your build. It's looking great! After reading through the past few pages, I feel the need to clarify a couple things to better the knowledge base of the forum.

We have upper control arm weld fixtures for all of the Chassisworks produced gBar and gLink systems. The spacing and angle of the brackets is extremely specific and it's critical that they match the designed geometry of the system. They do not work with parts from any other manufacturer.

The ridetech AirBar and 'first generation' gBar are the same thing. They are not currently made by us. I don't know if they were at one time but it's not really relevant. ridetech is a Chassisworks technology partner and we have produced several parts together. You can even purchase their products through us.

More info on the gBar and gLink and all it's options can be found in the downloadable data sheet HERE.

I hope that's helpful. Anytime you have a quesiton, just give me a call. I'm a pretty busy guy but I'll do my best to get back to you ASAP.

[GeoffP]

Thanks Carl - I enjoyed our 'banter' too! I appreciate you taking the time to post here and expand everyone's knowledge base! It's been neat to learn all the history about the 4 link products that both Chassisworks and ridetech make!

[Quickboat]

Ok on to happier topics - I got the car back from the alignment shop this afternoon. It drives completely different now. The toe wasn't bad off but the caster was on one side, enough to make it drive "funny" That's all gone now. I can't believe the improvement - the car finally feels like I wanted it to when I bought it years ago!

What alignment specs did you go with?

[GeoffP]

I've been meaning to post that and just forgot with everything going on:

Caster Left +4.1 Right 4.0
Camber Left -.6 Right -.5
Toe In Left 3/32" Right 1/8"

The caster is at max adjustment so there's no room for more, especially on the right. I kinda think the only way to get more is to go with a new upper cross shaft that uses offset bushings for the camber adjustment. That's just too much trouble right now - I may do it later but it'll be MUCH later.

[GeoffP]

I'm back and settled from DSE's first annual Southern Slam and all I can say is, "What a great event!" While I really didn't see a huge difference on the street with the new setup, the track is where it SHINES! I had some of the best runs I've ever done in the car! I found a couple problems though. I've got to get a cooler back on the power steering. It was definitely getting too hot. I've got to vent the gas tank and I also need to run tail pipes out the rear. It is AMAZING how much the exhaust dumping out at the axle heats the fuel. It really built up some pressure in the tank, so much so that it backed the fuel system up to the point the pump couldn't maintain pressure to the engine! I'm hoping it didn't damage the fuel pump but so far it seems fine today. At least another pump isn't super expensive! I'll be working on getting these things resolved along with hopefully getting the rear axle fixed (it's gotta have a gear replacement because the whining is driving me crazy).

So the bad news is that I lost the base clip for my GoPro and didn't get a single video. :( The good news is that my wife rode with me and took some video with her phone. I'll try to get that posted and post a link here plus pictures. There should be plenty of those posted over the next few days because there were photographers EVERYWHERE!

So back to the car, the road coarse was really cool. I made it around probably 12-15 laps total and didn't run off course or spin the car even once. That's a big improvement over last year considering I went around maybe 3-4 laps and spun the car twice. The car has more in it - I just have to learn how to drive it!

On the autocross, it was a little different. I probably could've loosened the shocks some to allow the car to transfer weight better but it still felt pretty good. There wasn't nearly enough time to do any tuning during the autocross though. It was still fun and again I had what I felt like were some of the best runs I've ever had in the car. It is definitely more balanced than it was before.

I guess that's about it for now until I can get pictures and the video posted.

[GeoffP]

I just bought an enclosed trailer!!! My wife found a great deal on a brand new 2010 leftover 8x24 with cabinets and a work bench, rubber flooring, fully finished interior, wired with power outlets inside and out, 7000 lbs torsion axles, and just shy of 10k lbs total capacity. I got it for less than half what a new one costs because it has some hail damage along with being a leftover. I'm just surprised to find such a great deal! Even if I can't drive, I'll be able to arrive and stay in style!

[SparkyRnD]

disregard my PM, just saw that you bought one. Congratulations, and you're gonna love it! Those little LED light ribbons I have in the uhaul are super cheap, and will really help illuminate the inside of the trailer. Let me know if you want a link

[GeoffP]

No problem - I am curious about adding some sleeping quarters ala the party "hauler" I may want to add heat and a/c to it down the road. The trailer is even lit but I am curious about the ribbon lights - those things really lit up the inside of your uhaul.

On the project note, I ordered a $25 vent kit for the gas tank from ridetech tonight. I also have a sumped gas tank a friend gave me. I think this will solve my fueling problems and allow me to move the fuel pump and filter off to the side where I shouldn't have clearance issues with the rear sway bar if I decide to buy one. I'll have to wait for it to go on sale or buy a used one cause $500 is out of my limit now that I bought a trailer. That leaves needing to fix the pinion angle and get new gears installed and that'll finish the car mechanically for now. I doubt I'll be doing much else to the car after I finish these things provided I don't break anything.

[makoshark]

Well, this sucks! I wish ridetech would produce a fixture like that to weld the upper tabs to the axle. It is extremely difficult to jack the car up high enough and get level on jackstands. I had a very difficult time with this and it is the one complaint I have with ridetech. Otherwise, I love the company and their products. My upper tabs are only tack welded on right now and the best I can tell, I have my pinion set at 2* down. I was shooting for 0*, but I had a difficult time laying under the car and being able to properly see the degree gauge. Also, I'm not completely sure I had the car completely level. As I said, that is difficult to do with the car sitting on jackstands. You also have to deal with the unlevelness of the concrete floor. This is something I DO need to get done ASAP though.

[Quickboat]

Well, this sucks! I wish ridetech would produce a fixture like that to weld the upper tabs to the axle. It is extremely difficult to jack the car up high enough and get level on jackstands. I had a very difficult time with this and it is the one complaint I have with ridetech. Otherwise, I love the company and their products. My upper tabs are only tack welded on right now and the best I can tell, I have my pinion set at 2* down. I was shooting for 0*, but I had a difficult time laying under the car and being able to properly see the degree gauge. Also, I'm not completely sure I had the car completely level. As I said, that is difficult to do with the car sitting on jackstands. You also have to deal with the unlevelness of the concrete floor. This is something I DO need to get done ASAP though.

Typically you only have to worry about side to side level since you are matching the pinion angle with whatever the trans yoke angle is at.

[makoshark]

Care to elaborate a bit further? I'm not quite following you with side to side level

[GeoffP]

@makoshark - I totally feel your pain! We had the same problem with my axle and I think this is why my pinion angle and axle center is messed up too. It would be so nice if ridetech would step up and produce a welding fixture for the tabs and provide it in the kit. I would've gladly paid another $75-100 to have gotten a fixture with my 4-Link.

[GeoffP]

Ok - let's change the subject! I just got home with my brand new 2010 leftover 24x8 trailer - it is SO loaded!!! It's got AC/DC lights, wired for AC power with outlets inside and out, diamond plate rubber flooring, fully finished, workbench, cabinets, battery, spare tire, 7k lbs rated dual axles, 10k lbs gvwr load rating, 8 lug 16" wheels and tires, 24 heavy duty tie down lugs, wall tie down lugs, dual overhead manual vents - I think that's about it. The only negative is that it's not a true car trailer so it doesn't have a dove tail in the floor. I'm going to have to probably build some short ramps similar to what Karl Dunn has fixed for Blu Balz for use with his trailer to keep it from scraping the floor but other than that it's just about perfect. I got it at a great deal because it was hail damaged. It has little pings all over the passenger side wall but you really can't see them unless you're looking at that side at an angle. I can't believe the deal I got - you just have to see this trailer to believe how nice it is! If you're friends with me on FB, I've posted the pictures on my wall. I'll post some on here probably tomorrow or Saturday depending on when I have time to get some good ones. The pictures I posted on FB were taken by the lot that had it so they aren't that great.

[Quickboat]

Care to elaborate a bit further? I'm not quite following you with side to side level

If you have the car on jackstands you need to mock the rearend at typical ride height. I think this can be accomplished by installing a fixture in the shock mounts @14.5" if I read correctly. Then use a angle finder to get the downward angle of the trans yoke. Note this angle since it will be the same angle used to set the rear end yoke angle only it will will be upward. The angle is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the upper links after the mounts are welded. I assume the links come fixed at a factory setting which is a good starting point. The directions are kind of vague so this is how I am approaching the install when I get to it. First go over the directions provided and then this may help you understand them some..??

[Rod]

. The angle is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the upper links after the mounts are welded. I assume the links come fixed at a factory setting which is a good starting point. The directions are kind of vague so this is how I am approaching the install when I get to it. First go over the directions provided and then this may help you understand them some..??

the upper links come from ridetech set at 9 1/4" ceneter to center

[Quickboat]

the upper links come from ridetech set at 9 1/4" ceneter to center

I assume this length is calculated to put the uppers brackets in the proper location at a certain ride height?

[Rod]

I assume this length is calculated to put the uppers brackets in the proper location at a certain ride height?

you are correct if the preload on the rear coilovers is set to less than an inch, the ride heigth is correct and the driveline angle is correct with the factory setting 9 1/4" upper links