Project WidowMaker - The Chevelle Build Thread

[93Polo]

awesome! i missed that one somehow and had only found one other short block on ebay that would work.

Noticed FWD in the last link. I think mounts changed on the fwd blocks but I could be wrong.

[srh3trinity]

Noticed FWD in the last link. I think mounts changed on the fwd blocks but I could be wrong.

That is worth checking into, I should have posted a link to the seller, he has a 5.3L Truck block for sale too, just look in his store.

[93Polo]

That is worth checking into, I should have posted a link to the seller, he has a 5.3L Truck block for sale too, just look in his store.

No problem, Went searching the bellhousing for the FWD 5.3s is the same as the 60 degree V6 and it doesn't have a pad to mount the starter. On the upside it has never been easier or cheaper to build a V8 Fiero (wasted an hr reading on that)

[The WidowMaker]

saw the fwd earlier too. looks like the crank is shorter, bell is different and theres no provision for a water pump. there has to be more part #s as well. still wondering if the 4.8s are the same or different. i did find some new 6.0s on ebay for 500 bucks and some used 5.3s for 2-250. i didnt find a 5.3 truck block in that guys store. only found the 5.3l ls4 fwd blocks.

i might be wasting my time looking since i didnt have a chance to call steve to see if he just had one.

[The WidowMaker]

turns out my mockup block is an ls2 block. never really paid any attention since i thought it was trash. it has a few nicks in the deck and the front surfaces which can be welded up. ive also been told that the 5.3 blocks are stronger since there are no windows in the lower webbing. problem is this only complicates windage issues at high rpm. so, steve is telling me to use the ls2 block that i have.

i now just need to decide what i want to do and who i want to build it. im down to two builders right now and will call one more tomorrow. i have a feeling theyll be close to 20k and thats not in my budget. as far as size, i was originally quoted 1500 for a new ls3 block for a 416 and i can buy a block and get it sleeved for 2300. so for 800 bucks more i can get 454 ci. easy choice in my mind since i will regret it if i dont, plus i have friggin 600 dollar hood hinges. the problem is with the added power, the engine builders want me to add a bunch more money for better parts (dry sump, steel caps, titanium valves etc..) this will add a TON to the cost and kill the idea. if i could just build it the same as the 416 but with more cubes it will get done. not sure this motor will ever get pushed the way i think they believe it will. 95% street use and my car and my skills wont complete an autocross like kyle. i just cant see running a dry sump on the street. hell, the 4k cost would buy me a rebuild.

[The WidowMaker]

no updated pics, but ive gotten some more work done. i ended up welding a 1/4 plate to the bottom of the closeout that mounts the latch. i was going to bolt it so it could be adjusted, but decided that i could move the part mounted to the hood so there was no need. i also had to cut and weld on the nice cast latch that i bought from rick a while back. since my closeout doesnt drop down like stock, the part that the hook goes into was about 1/8 too long. in addition, it hit the little trim ring that the pin goes through. i ended up taking about 3/4" off. all i need now is the hook and the closeout is complete. i work the next 3 days, but ill get some pics when i get back home. heres a pic of the latch that i had to cut down.

[The WidowMaker]

heres the last pics on the closeout. other than some smoothing and paint, its done. i got the hook done, and although it sits higher than i want it works really well. i had to balance being able to get my hand in to unlatch it with trying to make it as short as possible. luckly i have huge hands..... i was able to unlatch the pin and put ~100lbs of pull on the hood and it didnt budge. forces at speed are insane, but i think it will be sufficent. you can also see how i shaved down the part that holds the hook. i took 3/4" off and it works really well.

next up is finishing the front bumper. still need to get it cut to the correct angle for the grille. i'll finish it off with some 1/4" round bar on the lip to make it nice and smooth. i also need to get the inserts mounted. after the bumper i will start working on the front inner fenders.

[Protournova]

Looking real nice!!!

[KnightMare]

Looking great, this Chevelle is by far became one of my favorite builds, the attention to detail is amazing

[Angelo]

Your gonna turn me into a Chevelle guy! Can't to see the final product.

[The WidowMaker]

Your gonna turn me into a Chevelle guy! Can't to see the final product.

ha. and i think this build has turned me in to a camaro guy. theres WAY more bolt on parts that would have save me SO much time.

[The WidowMaker]

just spent 3 hours trying to get the bumper back on and re aligned. i pulled it to do a little straigtening before welding the round bar to the edge against the grille. the camaro guys dont know how well they have it with nothing to line the bumper up with. between the headlight extensions and the grille its frustrating as hell.

i also finally pulled the trigger and bought an ls7 short block. its sitting at RED in oceanside and will be getting a full sleeve job. i will end up boring it to 4.185 and will either build a 4" stroke 440 or a 4.125" stroke 454. im really wanting to do the 454 and will have to look past some of the hype about rod angles. the longer sleeves get rid of the issue of piston rock with the longer stroke. i also now have the stock titanium rods and ls7 crank for sale........

im also deciding if i want to do a wet sump with accusump, or an ls7 dry sump. the wet sump would use the autokraft pan and the dry would use the stock pan, avaid pan baffle, stock pump and peterson 2.5 gallon tank. i found a pretty good deal on most of the ls7 stuff, so a rough quote makes these two systems about $200 apart. at this point, 200 means nothing. but, some say the ls7 system isnt any good and start upgrading even more parts. if i have to run an ARE pan, ls9 pump etc., its no longer worth it. but, if the poorly built ls7 dret system is still better than any wet sump pan it will be worth it to me. any thoughts? ron gave me some good insight.

have a quote from charlie at RPM and waiting on livernois, wegner, dan zio and hke

more to come.....

[Hondo78]

Great thread, you have my attention I can see you have an eye for the custom touches, about 1000 hours worth. In the home stretch now looking great, this inspires my purchase this evening, a barn find wrecked '67, I really like the tubs.. Nice work my friend Very Nice..
What do you think about the GM performance LS 454 crate engine?

[The WidowMaker]

What do you think about the GM performance LS 454 crate engine?

at this point it seems like youre getting a lot for your money. the problem with my custom motor is that every good part is only 100 bucks more than the crate motor stuff. there are a lot of friggin parts on this motor. the gmpp 454 lsx is ~9.5k and my long block is ~12k. way too much, but like i said, it adds up fast.

[Hondo78]

Complete big cube LS seems like a great place to start, upgrade the crank and rods later. Although I began with a 5.3, they run hard, lots of power for under $400 and come with everything working.

[Hondo78]

I was wondering what width rear axle you are running, and are those rear rims 12" wide?

[The WidowMaker]

I was wondering what width rear axle you are running, and are those rear rims 12" wide?

they are a 20x11. im unsure of rear end width, but i'll look up my paperwork when i get home in a few days.


the motor plan is coming together nicely. i finally got a hold of erik at hke and i dont think theres anyone better to build this motor. just talking to him you can hear how well he knows these motors. the plan right now is still to do a 454 with afr 245 heads, super victor intake and accufab/fast 4150 tb. ill run all this with the holley hp dbc system. running the afr heads will also end up saving well over 1k. anything ls7 commands more cash. the super victor will also help the meshing of old and new technology and appearance. ive never liked the look of sb aluminum manifolds, but the spider look of the ls manifolds is insane.

im also leaning towards the dry sump setup with stock ls7 pump, pan, avaid baffle and peterson tank. its still a couple hundred more than an accusump and autokraft pan but i think its worth the price.

heres the only issue; will the super victor fit? my body is dropped about 3/8 and the motor is raised about 3/4". i have the various heights of manifolds written down, but they give heights from valley mounting surface to carb pad. im unsure of how these valley heights differ between sb, bb and ls (read, same height manifold different motor, does it sit higher, lower or the same). if i could figure this out i can search to see what fits with the other motors. although my motor is about 1 1/8" higher, the accufab tb is about 1 1/4" lower than a holley carb. and i hear the dominators are even taller.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

going off online dimensions, it looks like the ls7 pan is going to be a tight fit. i have a little over 12" before the crossmember and it appears the ls7 sump is 11" long. im going to try and get some accurate measurements and see if this is going to work.

[The WidowMaker]

picked up half of the dry sump today. redlinemotorsports does the motion camaros and buys ls7s and changes them over to wet sump for packaging reasons. 500 bucks got me a pump, pan, front cover and windage tray. wet sump stuff would have been over 700 for the same.

pump - 150
wet pan - 425
front cover - 135
windage tray - ?

so i think it was a pretty good deal. its not an optimal dry sump and i dont think i will seen any of the true dry sump benefits, but i think that a gravity fed oil pump and an additional 3 quarts of oil wont hurt.

still working with peterson on a drawing and a price for the tank. im having to run a sight tube on the side to check fluid levels since im hiding it up under the fender and wont be able to pull the top. im also planning on using a dual inlet style, but the second inlet will be my filler to top the tank off. my inital thought was to use an existing hole towards the bottom of their stock tank, run a 90 off of it and a piece of hose up the side. id add a nice cap to the line which would be both my fill and a visual on oil level. their thinking that although the fill would be slow with a -8, it would be impossible with needing to fight gravity.

id love to hear other suggestions that would make this damn thing cheaper

[SShep71]

Hey Tim glad to see your makin progress again. If your stuck man send me a crude drawing of what you want to do. Ill see if I can come up with any ideas. Esp if you need any CNC work done