Project BLUEprint, 1965 Falcon

[Protour_Pinto]

Did you think of putting the steering doubler farther up the shaft? Right behind the wheel would make it easier to swap.

[johnny68]

dude i may know the body lean part you need to stick you tounge out the corner of your mouth while cornering good job dude good seeing you and your dad
john
nova goes off to muffler shop in the morn.

[Bryce]

Did you think of putting the steering doubler farther up the shaft? Right behind the wheel would make it easier to swap.

It is still easy to change and has a better structural attachment to the car. It also is more hidden.

[Bryce]

Im sure most of this is pretty common knowledge for you but by just watching the scrub pattern and adjusting tire pressure to match, I was able to drop my times by 3.5 seconds. (Being a new driver, Im sure a lot of it was just learning the course as well.) Here's a source of info I have found useful.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=58

Thanks for the link. All of that is true once the car has a good initial setup. In these tighter courses I need to remove the excessive body lean first then adjust from there. I am running a relatively light front spring, only 300 pounds. I may step up to a 450 or 500 while adding a bigger front bar. But the car was pretty balanced on the larger course and a larger radius turns.

[Bryce]

dude i may know the body lean part you need to stick you tounge out the corner of your mouth while cornering good job dude good seeing you and your dad
john
nova goes off to muffler shop in the morn.

Haha, thanks Johnny. Did you see my face in the rear view mirror? There are a couple times you see me struggling to turn the car.

[Bjkadron]

Thanks for the link. All of that is true once the car has a good initial setup. In these tighter courses I need to remove the excessive body lean first then adjust from there. I am running a relatively light front spring, only 300 pounds. I may step up to a 450 or 500 while adding a bigger front bar. But the car was pretty balanced on the larger course and a larger radius turns.

Wow... What does your wheel rate come out to?

[Bryce]

Wow... What does your wheel rate come out to?

I have a 86% motion ratio in the front. It equals a 480lbs/in spring on a stock suspension mustang or a wheel rate of 258lbs/in.

[Bad Bird]

This thread is a great read! I love the out-of-the-box thinking, and the lack of just buying bolt-ons. It's obvious that you've got a strong engineering background...

[LM7_67]

Bummer what happened?

the axles shifted inside of the housing so that the rear rotors met the pad abutment brackets... gouged up the rotors

[TurboLark]

I have a 86% motion ratio in the front. It equals a 480lbs/in spring on a stock suspension mustang or a wheel rate of 258lbs/in.

It seems to me that many mustangs out there use a 600-650 front spring in the stock location as a good compromise between ride and handling. Maybe try increasing the rate of your coilovers to be in that range and increase the rear bar to regain balance(or increase the rear coils too).
I have always thought of the swaybars as 50% body control and 50% tuning aid, and stiffening up the springs for a bit more body control.

[shortrack]

just checked your whole thread, very cool!.....couple things, your daughter is the cutest thing ever and 2733.....man thats light....I officially hate you. lol

[Bryce]

This thread is a great read! I love the out-of-the-box thinking, and the lack of just buying bolt-ons. It's obvious that you've got a strong engineering background...

Thanks Matt. I try, HAHA.

the axles shifted inside of the housing so that the rear rotors met the pad abutment brackets... gouged up the rotors

Bummer, you going to a floater? Maybe I will jsut stick with my rear drums. I was locking them up at del mar, dialed a little bias out.

It seems to me that many mustangs out there use a 600-650 front spring in the stock location as a good compromise between ride and handling. Maybe try increasing the rate of your coilovers to be in that range and increase the rear bar to regain balance(or increase the rear coils too).
I have always thought of the swaybars as 50% body control and 50% tuning aid, and stiffening up the springs for a bit more body control.

I am probably a lot lighter in the front than the average mustang, and this was my spring choice from three years ago. I have some big changes taking place in my head. Splined sway bar is one of them. Maybe a CF bar... hmmmm!

just checked your whole thread, very cool!.....couple things, your daughter is the cutest thing ever and 2733.....man thats light....I officially hate you. lol

HAHA, thanks for the love! I want to get another 100 pounds out of the car. Maybe fiberglass doors after I do a cage with door bars. AFCO has new light weight springs that will save another 5 pounds a corner. I will also be removing the rear bumper and building a rear belly pan and diffuser to help with aero.

I got lucky with my daughter. My friend's wife calls her the pretty version of me since she looks like me! haha.

[LM7_67]

Bummer, you going to a floater? Maybe I will jsut stick with my rear drums. I was locking them up at del mar, dialed a little bias out.

Not sure yet. Have all summer to figure it out now.

[TurboLark]

Splined swaybar would be very nice for tuning.
Is a rear difuser useful without doing a full bellypan?

[Bryce]

Splined swaybar would be very nice for tuning.
Is a rear difuser useful without doing a full bellypan?

I really want to design a carbon fiber sway bar.

Yes a diffuser is more efficient with a belly pan, but getting rid of the air and streamlining will help at speed. I will design it to be functional but removing the weight of the bumper is the main reason.

[Bjkadron]

I really want to design a carbon fiber sway bar.

Yeah, that would be really cool. I have done some small scale testing with carbon tubes and the results got me really excited... the biggest problem it the bearing stress they have from the supports...

I found these people... but there are a bunch of other suppliers too... And I don't have a clue how to calculate the torsional rigidity of a composite tube...

http://www.rockwestcomposites.com/br...FaYBQAodXn4SZA

[Bryce]

Yeah, that would be really cool. I have done some small scale testing with carbon tubes and the results got me really excited... the biggest problem it the bearing stress they have from the supports...

I found these people... but there are a bunch of other suppliers too... And I don't have a clue how to calculate the torsional rigidity of a composite tube...

http://www.rockwestcomposites.com/br...FaYBQAodXn4SZA

I might save that idea for my next build, but I would have a variable thickness tube for mounting locations. Bonded in splined aluminum ends....

[Bryce]

NO updates yet, but I have been spending money. Parts should be showing up soon.

[TurboLark]

NO updates yet, but I have been spending money. Parts should be showing up soon.

Spending money on.....????

[rustomatic]

Bryce,

It's good to see that you've survived the autocross with your new steering. What I'm dying to know is how your 8:1 ratio feels driving through town; is it survivable, or do you have more changes in line as a result of the driving experience thus far? Have you tried it out on a twisty/coast road or anything? I'm kind of thinking that a 1.5:1 quickener (which I'm thinking might result in about 15:1) might be the hot (or maybe mild) ticket for my manual Unisteer some time down the road... Thanks!