Project BLUEprint, 1965 Falcon

[rixtrix1]

One not so good thing about a front mounted Panhard bar, ala some stockcar parts, is that the bar is very short. This makes for more lateral movement of the rear axle as it moves up and down than a side to side(longer) bar would have. The Watts link has no side to side movement. Just another thing to consider, especially when mounting could be an issue.

[Bryce]

So if I went with a Panhard bar I would need to change just the front spring eye bushing? Is that to keep the spring from twisting or side to side movement? This stuff is new to me, I understand how both work I just didn't know you could combine them with leafs. Since I've got a bigger gas tank I think I need to see what kind of room I've got. Since a Panhard can be fit to the front of the third member. A Watts link would need to be mounted on the back side of the diff. You got any pics Linkstar69? Would rod end links instead of bushings on the panhard work to reduce bind?

I guess I typed that too fast yesterday and was unclear. If you use a panhard then you will need a softer bushing in the front spring eye to alow the 1/4" of lateral movement during suspension travel. The panhard travels in an arc and has some lateral movement. I was saying that a sperical bearing in the front eye would add lateral stability to the rear suspension. It might even be better than a panhard. Assuming the rear bushing are good and the springs are stiff enough.

Leaf spring dont like to twist; therefore, they have more roll stiffness than a link and coil spring car. So putting in a spherical bearing in the front would free up the back of the car and you may need to add a sway bar to re-balance the car.

I would not attach the panhard to the front of the third member, its going to be way too short and way to high. You want a panhard to be as long as possible to limit the translation when it moves in an arc, simple geometry. Also, the panhard will need to mounted somewhere around the axle centerline. Remeber you need to match the two roll center heights.

One not so good thing about a front mounted Panhard bar, ala some stockcar parts, is that the bar is very short. This makes for more lateral movement of the rear axle as it moves up and down than a side to side(longer) bar would have. The Watts link has no side to side movement. Just another thing to consider, especially when mounting could be an issue.

YES.

[feeble]

Bryce: Got my axle brackets today from Speedway: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhar...cket,3382.html They are a little different than the Speedway picture but look exactly the same as yours. I wish the price would have been the same.

Did they require much persuasion to get over the axle tube on your car? The brackets are for a 3" axle tube and my tubes measure (give or take a little) 3.082. I can get them started but would have to rely on the bolts (or a BFH) to pull the ~1/2" space between the halves together. Was your experience similar?

Thanks for your help,

Shawn



EDIT: I cleaned my housing up with a wire wheel and was able to tap the brackets on without too much effort using a mallet.

Not sure if you made one or not, but I made a model of the panhard bracket and can send you the step file if you'd like it.

[Bryce]

Shawn,

Great CAD work. I did not model every piece of my suspension. some things were just graphical representations.

My brackets sit 7" behind the housing. The watts link takes up more room than a panhard and my cradle just clears the housing.

Also my brackets fit easy over my painted housing.

Bryce: Got my axle brackets today from Speedway: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhar...cket,3382.html They are a little different than the Speedway picture but look exactly the same as yours. I wish the price would have been the same.

Did they require much persuasion to get over the axle tube on your car? The brackets are for a 3" axle tube and my tubes measure (give or take a little) 3.082. I can get them started but would have to rely on the bolts (or a BFH) to pull the ~1/2" space between the halves together. Was your experience similar?

Thanks for your help,

Shawn



EDIT: I cleaned my housing up with a wire wheel and was able to tap the brackets on without too much effort using a mallet.

Not sure if you made one or not, but I made a model of the panhard bracket and can send you the step file if you'd like it.

[Bryce]

finally have most of the pieces.....

[454bug]

Hey Bryce,

I am really interested to see how you like your new steering setup... Especially how you get used to driving around with an 8.00:1 ratio!

Your car should REALLY be responsive!!

I really want to know if you find the ratio workable with imperfections in the road surface, etc... It should be a great lane changer!

The transitions on an autocross should be a lot of fun!

[Bryce]

I hope I like it.... But I will make it adjustable so I can go to 12:1 and 16:1.

Good thing I work out!

[454bug]

I hope I like it.... But I will make it adjustable so I can go to 12:1 and 16:1.

Good thing I work out!

Maybe I zipped through your updates too fast... how can you make it adjustable? I thought the unit was a doubler...

[feeble]

Bryce: Any regrets going with a 4" travel shock on the rear? That's about all I have room for without some major surgery to the hatch floor in my car, looks like you were in the same boat. I am considering Ride Tech single adjustables.

[Bryce]

Bryce: Any regrets going with a 4" travel shock on the rear? That's about all I have room for without some major surgery to the hatch floor in my car, looks like you were in the same boat. I am considering Ride Tech single adjustables.

I have no issues with the 4" of travel. With the shocks set to soft its rides just fine.

[Bryce]

Maybe I zipped through your updates too fast... how can you make it adjustable? I thought the unit was a doubler...

I am going to make it a quick change. Basically I am going to buy a 1.5:1 ratio quickener and make up a straight shaft to replace the quickener so I will have 3 different settings.

Nothing super cool....

[Bryce]

This was the last picture before the steering column came out.

[Bryce]

I will start my write up on the steering quickener install.

I had to take more of the car apart that I initially intended. The headers had to come out and I had to lift the motor to do that. Damn fords almost no room in there.

I ordered more parts last night. I think I should have everything to finish this middle of next week.

[Bjkadron]

I have no issues with the 4" of travel. With the shocks set to soft its rides just fine.

Do you have 4" each way or total?

[Bryce]

Do you have 4" each way or total?

4" total.

[Badbird1963]

I am very interested in that steering setup, can't wait to see how it works. I don't remember reading anything about the current column you have or had in the car, it doesn't look stock. What's going on there? I think you've got us all on the edge of our seats again waiting for the work to begin. Thanks bud.

[Bryce]

I am very interested in that steering setup, can't wait to see how it works. I don't remember reading anything about the current column you have or had in the car, it doesn't look stock. What's going on there? I think you've got us all on the edge of our seats again waiting for the work to begin. Thanks bud.

Thanks!

I built my own aluminum column, I will post some details later. I need to get all my pictures uploaded. Too busy building!

[Bryce]

Here are some pictures of the steering column I built about 8 years ago. It started out as a full length column, now its about a foot long. It is an aluminum tube with 1.5" OD and has a flange welded to it to mount the stock horn and blinker and the upper bearing for the steering shaft.







Here is my 5 bolt to 3 bolt adapter. I like aluminum and I did not like the grant piece and how far it extended the steering wheel.

[Bryce]

This is the modified column; it has a bearing in the end of it to support the lower part of the stock shaft.





The pillow block mounts to the stock steering column support. The shaft collars are there for extra support.

I also cut down the blinker switch because I actually hit it while autocrossing.

[Bryce]

The car had to come apart to get the stock box out. I even cut the shaft in half to help facilitate the removal.



I had to lift the motor up and move it over to get the headers out.



Not bad for 10 years in the car. The hooker super comps fit great but even with my solid motor mounts I was making contact with the old steering box.



Because I pulled the headers I had to get new inserts for my earls header gaskets. These carbon inserts work great!