Project Bad Penny - more changes because done is boring

[Damn True]

It's probably kind of a good thing I don't live closer to David and Mary.

Knock-Knock....uh hi David, and you help me with _______

[chicane67]

$760 a pair is better than some I've seen.. I can't imagine a downside for the street.

They also have so killer sperical upper control arm mounts but $2k is way big money..

Oh well, nobody said racing was cheap. lol

And to think... those are just bandaid bearing cartridges... and not even the good ones.



(echo... echo) think small ps cooler (echo... echo)

Do it now before you find that it has become you next problem.

[Steve1968LS2]

And to think... those are just bandaid bearing cartridges... and not even the good ones.



(echo... echo) think small ps cooler (echo... echo)

Do it now before you find that it has become you next problem.

I might do one just for you.. maybe call it the "Tom Holt memorial PS cooler" oh wait, your not dead yet (Monte Python reference)...

[Steve1968LS2]

Here's that lower control arm angle we mentioned. The good news is that you can see that the tie rod is parrallel to the control arm resulting in almost no bumpsteer.

[Damn True]

Silly question for Dave. In an SLA setup can it not work with either the top OR bottom arm parallel? Of course that setup would have to be designed in.

[David Pozzi]

Penny seems to work darn well right now, so even though the lower arms are not level, it seems to work OK.
Penny is darn low, so a lot of cars would not see any issues. One thing I just found out is Penny's subframe has vette suspension but it's been narrowed a lot more than I thought it was.

For most cars, the lower A arm needs to be pretty close to level, and the upper arm inclined downwards towards the center of the chassis, some are around 2 deg inclined but that's variable depending on a lot of factors.
Mustang II suspension has short upper and lower A arms, and a lower A arm angle the reverse of penny seems to work better for short arms.
David

[Steve1968LS2]

Yea, a vette "subframe" is pretty wide compared to a first gen.

Off to order up parts tomorrow.. and visit the power painter.. and the fitting shop.. This month is gonna FLY by.

[Ron S]

Tell me about it,I don't know if you have been following my Mustang build.I'm using a factory C5 subframe,and its about a foot wider then a 66 Mustang.Its funny I just did a bumpsteer test on the car the easy way.With the spring out of the front I cycled the suspension through its full range of travel,and the steering wheel did not move at all.Gm engineers were on the ball on that one.Keep the pics coming,love the build.Ron

[hectore3]

Here's that lower control arm angle we mentioned. The good news is that you can see that the tie rod is parrallel to the control arm resulting in almost no bumpsteer.

Just noticing that oil filter appears so vulnerable hanging out front there to debris. Ever thought about a shield of sorts?

[Steve1968LS2]

Just noticing that oil filter appears so vulnerable hanging out front there to debris. Ever thought about a shield of sorts?

First, the K&N has a thicker housing and can take more abuse. Secondly there's usually a front spoiler offering some protection.

Chance are that if I hit anything big enough to really damage the oil filter that I will have "bigger problems" to worry about.

Hey, it's air cooled!

[preston]

You're definitely going the right direction with the spindles. That lower arm angle looks hideous. In fact I've found some of my best results on the computer are with a slight angle upwards to the chassis. Seems to reduce scrub while maintaining good camber control. Minimizes roll center movement as well. Those things must cost some serious dollars, but in your case they will be with it. Just make sure that you still have your turning radius. With high backspace front wheels you may run into tie rod interference as it will now be lower in the wheel and closer to teh outside radius. On the other hand the backspacing on my front wheels is 9" so maybe itsj just me. With the more normal 6.5-7" backspacing it probably isn't an issue.

[Steve1968LS2]

You're definitely going the right direction with the spindles. That lower arm angle looks hideous. In fact I've found some of my best results on the computer are with a slight angle upwards to the chassis. Seems to reduce scrub while maintaining good camber control. Minimizes roll center movement as well. Those things must cost some serious dollars, but in your case they will be with it. Just make sure that you still have your turning radius. With high backspace front wheels you may run into tie rod interference as it will now be lower in the wheel and closer to teh outside radius. On the other hand the backspacing on my front wheels is 9" so maybe itsj just me. With the more normal 6.5-7" backspacing it probably isn't an issue.

I should note that with the 17" wheels the angle was slightly less. Still, as bad as it looks it didn't seem to hurt the car very bad. But, if we make a bunch of little things better it should make a noticable difference.

I looked and I don't think the turning radius will be an issues, but I will keep an eye on it. A bigger issue is how close the tie rod end is to the rotor. I worry about heat off the rotor killing the tie rod. Maybe I need a little heat shield. lol

[buickfunnycar.com]

A bigger issue is how close the tie rod end is to the rotor. I worry about heat off the rotor killing the tie rod. Maybe I need a little heat shield. lol

Yeah,I would look into fabbing something up there,it's a tight fit as is,surprised you haven't cooked them.

Beautiful car though Steve,I was honored to be sitting under her on the lift...

[David Pozzi]

Heat shields are a good idea. I noticed on the DSE and Morrison subs they are close like that too.
David

[Steve1968LS2]

Heat shields are a good idea. I noticed on the DSE and Morrison subs they are close like that too.
David

Yea, think of a small curved shield tacked to at small tab. That tab would sandwich between the tie rods castle nut and the steering arm. The tab could then be thermal coated to reflect heat. Or the tab could possibly be held in place by the zirc fitting.

Sound workable?

[David Pozzi]

I was thinking bailing wire and duct tape!

[Steve1968LS2]

I was thinking bailing wire and duct tape!

Wow, I was expecting you to offer one or the other.. not BOTH!

;)

[buickfunnycar.com]

I was thinking bailing wire and duct tape!

LOL...get 'er done Dave!

[1971CHEVELLE]

Well, Penny is now safely up in the Pozzi's shop for a little TLC.

First off, Dave has a killer shop which sure makes it easy to carry out a vision for a part.

And it's Camaro heaven in the place. Here is Penny in her new temp home.

Wow awesomr car

[Steve1968LS2]

My uprights have arrived.. trying to see if the sperical bearings are in the budget or not.

Man, these things are sweet. If anyone has seen the ones sold by LG Motorsports the extra work in these should be evident. Almost too nice to put on a car. lol