Project Bad Penny - more changes because done is boring

[Damn True]

Lateral Dynamics 3-Link

[Steve1968LS2]

The swaybar has seven adjustment points that range from 250 to just over 700 lbs. Right now it's set around 600 lbs so we can get a bit more rotation.

I made a world of difference. The car feels very smooth and "drama free". My runs were a lot different to watch than the other cars. Now I just need more seat time.

Next will be changing from 310/550 springs to 275/500 springs. This will help the car transfer weight better from the rear to the front during braking.

I was pretty happy with my driving.. I started off wide to the line and then got pretty good at staying on it. Now I just need a bit more throttle and quicker brakes.

Video:

[Damn True]

Did a bleed help the pedal at all?

[Steve1968LS2]

Did a bleed help the pedal at all?

No, I'm convinced there's a problem in the master. On the street it's fine but I'm getting severe knock-back like symptoms now that I didn't have at optima.

That means I have to "double pump" the brakes after a hard turn. I will be replacing it soon.

[Steve1968LS2]

Burn out for the victory lap..

Who's that in my smoke??? Could that be Nick Licata???

;)

Oh, he is SO coming for me....

[dropit69]

cool pic Steve ..noticed the kids face in the golf cart=priceless..lol

[CruizinKev]

[Steve1968LS2]

My new drop steering arms arrived today so that means I can proceed with the front end rebuild.



These were made by Jim Pettigrew. He's the engineer that designed the 21st Century subframe I'm using. Even though the company is gone he can still make the parts and the frame.

Anyways, he was nice enough to jig me up a set with the right 1.25" drop.

Thanks Jim!

[srh3trinity]

Steve,
Just curious, but why does Penny have 1967 mirrors? I have always wondered that. Were there some 68's that came with the round side view mirrors?
Nevertheless, it is always fun to follow your updates. Plenty of good pictures, good engineering and success on the track.

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve,
Just curious, but why does Penny have 1967 mirrors? I have always wondered that. Were there some 68's that came with the round side view mirrors?
Nevertheless, it is always fun to follow your updates. Plenty of good pictures, good engineering and success on the track.

Simple.. I don't like the rectangular '68 mirrors and feel the '67 mirrors have more "soul".. especially with the bowtie emblems.

I have '67 RS tail lights as well.. but don't tell anyone.. lol

[79-TA]

Simple.. I don't like the rectangular '68 mirrors and feel the '67 mirrors have more "soul".. especially with the bowtie emblems.

I have '67 RS tail lights as well.. but don't tell anyone.. lol

Penny's different rear lenses prevented me from even noticing that.

Then there was the autox announcer's beef with '69 cowl hoods on other first gens . . .

[Steve1968LS2]

Penny's different rear lenses prevented me from even noticing that.

Then there was the autox announcer's beef with '69 cowl hoods on other first gens . . .

Chad just likes stiring things up.. best announcer they've ever had.. some of his comments were hilarious..

Here's a cool video David Pozzi took. Not my best run, but the car look pretty smoot from ground level.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wskkMsGF6ek

[Steve1968LS2]

Time to dig into the front suspension.. first up is rebuilding the control arms..

Pete over at Competition Specialties hooked me up with a set of C6 control arms so that my car wouldn't have to be down as long. Same geometry, but the lower arms are much nicer than C5 in terms of how they look.

Getting the bushings out is a PITA though.

First, cut off one flange.


Fire in the hole! Easiest (but messy) way is to burn them out.


I took the time to smooth out all the casting marks on the uppers, clean up the lowers and have them powder coated in silver. This way they will still look aluminum but won't stain and oxidize so easily. Here they are laid out with my parts from Pfadt Racing.


The key to this project.. Loctite 638. It's expensive but it will secure the bushings in the control arms.


The 638 is applied to the inner surface of the control arm and to the bushing sleeve. Just be sure not to get it anywhere you don't want it. You have 5-min of working time.


Then slide in the new bushing, wipe off any excess, and let set. After a few hours I then added the spiral lock to further secure the bushing.


Wednesday we should be putting all of this new stuff on the car and then getting an alignment. Plan to set camber at -1.5

[bwhinnen]

I've just fallen in love all over again with Penny!

Some very tidy steering there Steve!

[T_Raven]

Looking good steve. I'll be using C5 control arms so it's good to know the C6s are the same geometry. I may have to try those bushings some day too.

[Motown 454]

Those look indestructable now.

[rat_rod_russell]

David and Steve

Thanks for posting all the info about the rear sway bar build. I'm working on a 38 ford pickup for a customer and he wanted a rear sway bar and some other work to the front. I talked to the guys at Hotchkis and found that the first gen Camaro bar is about the only thing narrow enough for this project. So I had a plate laser cut for the extension. This ones lighter in the rear so I'm going to grind the end down to use the original hole but keep my .75" hole to hole length. The guy doesn't know what he wants so this is one more way to give me some leeway when where done.


(Click to enlarge)

Anyone who wants the .dxf file to have some cut out near you just ask.

Thanks again for sharing all this information.

[Mkelcy]

My new drop steering arms arrived today so that means I can proceed with the front end rebuild.



These were made by Jim Pettigrew. He's the engineer that designed the 21st Century subframe I'm using. Even though the company is gone he can still make the parts and the frame.

Anyways, he was nice enough to jig me up a set with the right 1.25" drop.

Thanks Jim!

What necessitated the drop steering arms?

[Steve1968LS2]

What necessitated the drop steering arms?

The dropped spindles..

Since the arms are bolted to the hub area, and the hub area is moved up 1.25" then the arm must move down 1.25" to make up the diff and keep the tie rod parallel with the lower control arm.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]