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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Grand Rapids, MI
      Posts
      1,559
      Country Flag: United States
      Ray, when you say "try to keep the LCA level", are you referring to the side to side (front view) or front to rear (side view)? Would it be a smart move to level the LCA's in the X & Y planes then relocate the UCA mounts?

      Will Ellis
      1969 Dodge Dart Swinger, 1/2 Dart / 1/2 Viper...
      Build Thread


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wellis77 View Post
      Ray, when you say "try to keep the LCA level", are you referring to the side to side (front view) or front to rear (side view)? Would it be a smart move to level the LCA's in the X & Y planes then relocate the UCA mounts?
      If the LCA is at much of an angle in front view, it will have an effect on camber, as noted. If it is angled in side view (pivot bolts), it will force a caster change with suspension travel, as the lower ball joint is moving up and down at an angle. Some racers use this as a tuning tool, but for all around use you're probably better off keeping it flat in both planes.

      The UCA mounts are typically angled in side view to give braking anti-dive (usually the rear pivot is lower than the front). Be careful with this angle, as anti-dive is designed from the factory for the original car weight, F/R weight distribution, and stock tire design. Too much anti-dive will make the front end too stiff and chatter the tires under heavy braking. Having said that, if you're pulling everything off a Viper; the stock anti-dive angle (UCA pivots relative to ground) should serve you fairly well.

      BTW, back to your original plot of the camber gain with the shorter UCA... With that low profile tire, you probably don't need as much progressive camber gain as your simulation is giving you. Note how it only gains .685deg in the first inch of travel (good), but gains almost a full degree more in the second inch. If the car is stiffly sprung (NOT always the best for grip) and corners very flat, you should be ok. If you let the front end move around (softer) to go easy on the tire sidewall, you may end up with the outside of the tread pulling up. If as you say there is only 4 of available travel, don't give it a second thought, it will have to be stiff as hell anyway to keep from bottoming something.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website




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