200-r4 Vs. 700-R4 Which One?

[rocketrod]

The best one that I've seen is the Stage 3 from Bow tie overdrives. It costs about $1300 but they've got it rated at 450+ hp. If I can't find a better deal then thats the one for me. One other question. On ls1tech.com the guys are putting 3200 to 4000 rpm stalls in their 4th gen camaro's with 4l60e trans and pulling some 1.4 to 1.7 60 ft times and running them as daily drivers. I know these are lockup converters and the 200r4 is supposedly the same. Can I put a 3500 lockup converter in my 68 camaro and still daily drive it and get decent mileage? Also who makes a good one. It'll be going behind a 383 sb.

I am having a 2004R built now. It will be using a CZ core, 86-87 Monte Carlo SS, alto red clutches, GN servo, deep pan, billet forward drum, etc. and will withstand low to mid 10 sec blasts in the 1/4 mile. PM me if you want more details.

[StRacerDuke]

Let me stress the importance of correct CV cable adjusting! I burned up a fresh 700-R4 on a 64 chevelle that I use to own. It's a major PITA! You have to run a special bracket on a Holley carb if you want to set it right. The swing on the carb is the wrong radius for the CV pull. There is a special little bracket that ajust's the ratio. Make sure you get it ajusted correctly too, and not just by feel.

The beyond 3/4 throttle in 3rd gear wasn't that big of an issue because I rarely above 130. With my gear ratio I was passing the traps in the 1/4 in 3rd at 6,600 (on spray).

Hope this helps.

[GetMore]

The 700-R4 has a greater spread between first, second, and third gears. You will have more pickup off the line with one. It also has a greater spread between first and overdrive. If you have a wide powerband and want power and economy you might be better off using the 700-R4.

Running a high-stall converter is going to hurt mileage when the clutch is unlocked. On the highway a 1200 stall is the same as a 5000 stall if the torque converter clutch is locked.
One of the things that allows a high stall to have good drivability is a higher STR (stall/torque ratio). This number coorelates to the torque multiplication of the converter. Mind you, as the converter slippage reduces so does the multiplication, and higher STRs usually have reduced efficiency, so just like choosing a cam, the bigger number is not always the best.

[Steelrat]

Here is another article to fuel the debate. Illustrating the 700 being built stronger. I recognize this is comparison of stock units.
http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=426&SID=6

Also, from what I have read if you are running a lower HP/TQ motor the 200 may be have more suitable gearing with the 1 -2 shift. With 450 and up HP/TQ there should not be any issues of "falling down" from 1st - 2nd

Transmission Ratios
200-R4 1st - 2.74 2nd - 1.57 3rd - 1.00 4th- 0.67
700-R4 1st - 3.06 2nd -1.62 3rd- 1.00 4th - 0.70

In the end I think it comes down to the build/parts and builder.

[Roadrage David]

Bowtie overdrives Level III tr2004r 170mph drive bij http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dp0PngisVI

[Steve Chryssos]

Now that's the right way to prove a point!

[Roadrage David]

Steve thats what i tought. we have that video clip on our website Stating ""We test the crap out of the parts we sell"".

[Steve Chryssos]

Cool. I didn't know you were in business. I'd like to set you up as a dealer. Send me a PM or email if you are interested.

[Roadrage David]

here is the ground level drive bij http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn3K6d_e7bw


Steve always intrested il send you a PM

[megaladon6]

i vote for the 200-4r. but if you do go with a stock 700, buy the latest model one you can get. GM fixed most of the problems with them as years went on. or if you go to a 4l60e, it's basically a 700 with computer control. plus, you can get the shifter paddles on the steering wheel and better control with software upgrades.

[Roadrage David]

Cool. I didn't know you were in business. I'd like to set you up as a dealer. Send me a PM or email if you are interested.

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