Yelcamino 2.0

[Yelcamino]

whoa!!! awesome progress!!

Thanks!

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Nice progress! Are you using the 5th gen camaro starter?

Andrew

I think that's the one I have. I just went with the starter part number that was recommended back when I did the LS swap.

[andrewb70]

Thanks!

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I think that's the one I have. I just went with the starter part number that was recommended back when I did the LS swap.

The 5th gen Camaro starter uses a plug for the solenoid wire. I used it on my Cougar and had to grind the bellhousing for clearance. It was minimal. There is an OEM heatshild that is used on the Camaro and it bolts right to the starter. Highly recommended.

Andrew

[Yelcamino]

The 5th gen Camaro starter uses a plug for the solenoid wire. I used it on my Cougar and had to grind the bellhousing for clearance. It was minimal. There is an OEM heatshild that is used on the Camaro and it bolts right to the starter. Highly recommended.

Andrew

Ok, then I have the Camaro starter because I had to add a pigtail to connect it.

[Michaels 69]

lol, I'll take that as a compliment.



I like dimple dies. Now that I've used them on a few things, I notice I'm looking at other things thinking hmm... maybe I should dimple that!

Where did you buy your dimple dies from? Love the look of your car too!!

[Yelcamino]

Where did you buy your dimple dies from? Love the look of your car too!!

I bought them from a guy on the C10 Forum. IIRC, he worked at a machine shop and made some sets to sell.

Thanks!

[Michaels 69]

I bought them from a guy on the C10 Forum. IIRC, he worked at a machine shop and made some sets to sell.

Thanks!

Very cool, I want to find a good cheap set sometime if that's possible. LOL

Why did you change out the tremec TKO600 for the T56? What are you going to do with the TKO600?

[andrewb70]

Very cool, I want to find a good cheap set sometime if that's possible. LOL

Why did you change out the tremec TKO600 for the T56?....

The TR6060 (T56 Magnum) is superior in every way to the TKO 600...

Andrew

[Yelcamino]

Why did you change out the tremec TKO600 for the T56? What are you going to do with the TKO600?

The TR6060 (T56 Magnum) is superior in every way to the TKO 600...

What Andrew said is one of the main reasons I made the change. The TKO is for sale... it might be sold, but if it falls through I'll post it here.

[Michaels 69]

The TR6060 (T56 Magnum) is superior in every way to the TKO 600...

Andrew

Good to know Andrew, I don't know much on the TR6050 T56.

What Andrew said is one of the main reasons I made the change. The TKO is for sale... it might be sold, but if it falls through I'll post it here.

The TR6060 is bigger then the TKO? I'll keep a look out for a T56 for my cougar.

[andrewb70]

The T56 is one transmission, the TR6060, is similar, but a different animal. For simplicity, Tremec calls the aftermarket version of the TR6060 a T56 Magnum. However, very few parts, if any, interchange between the T56 and the TR6060.

If you're starting from scratch, the easiest option is to just get a T56 Magnum, as it has the latest technology but it is also easily adaptable to older vehicles.

Andrew

[Josh@Ridetech]

I still have to connect the three trans sensors, build a small console, and get the interior finished. Once I get those things knocked out, I think I'll be ready for the 2017 season.

Everything is looking great Herb! Love seeing the progress of your cars/truck.

[Yelcamino]

Everything is looking great Herb! Love seeing the progress of your cars/truck.

Thanks Josh!

[Michaels 69]

The T56 is one transmission, the TR6060, is similar, but a different animal. For simplicity, Tremec calls the aftermarket version of the TR6060 a T56 Magnum. However, very few parts, if any, interchange between the T56 and the TR6060.

If you're starting from scratch, the easiest option is to just get a T56 Magnum, as it has the latest technology but it is also easily adaptable to older vehicles.

Andrew

Good to know Andrew thank you for the info.

Michael

[Yelcamino]

Over the last few days I built a console. It's far from a professional level but I think it turned out ok.

I started with a sheet of 18 gauge mild steel and after a few templates, cut, fit, trim, fit, trim some more, I eventually ended up with this:





I still need to cut holes for a pair of cup holders and build the mounts to hold it in place.

[andrewb70]

Over the last few days I built a console. It's far from a professional level but I think it turned out ok.

I started with a sheet of 18 gauge mild steel and after a few templates, cut, fit, trim, fit, trim some more, I eventually ended up with this:





I still need to cut holes for a pair of cup holders build the mounts to hold it in place.

Cup holders #racecar...LOL

Andrew

[Yelcamino]

Cup holders #racecar...LOL

Andrew

Come on now, the El Camino isn't a racecar.

Here it is with the cup holders and I even put in a slot to hold my cel phone!

[Yelcamino]

I know you guys have been dying for updates on Yelcamino, so here they are!

I've had an open car trailer for a while and though it gets the job done, I‘ve always wanted an enclosed car trailer, but a nice one is pretty pricey so I haven’t bothered. A few weeks ago I found a used one with all the bells and whistles for a decent price and I had a buyer for my open trailer, so I jumped on it. It’s a 2012 model, it has AC, roll out awning, ceiling vents, a Warn winch, and a finished interior.





April 1st rolls around and Yelcamino is loaded in the new trailer ready to go to Putnam Park for some road course time with the 10/10ths group. My first session out the car was feeling good, the track was fun, and I was getting familiar with the layout…







Fast forward to my second session… The first four or five laps were a repeat of the first session, then coming down the front straight around 110 mph, there was a huge “boom” that was loud enough for my wife to hear it from where she was standing taking pictures! Following the boom was the tell tale sign of a drive shaft coming apart. This wasn’t how I wanted to end my track day, but it wasn’t the worst thing that could happen, or so I thought.



Fortunately, my new trailer came equipped with a nice Warn winch so getting Yelcamino loaded wasn’t too big of an issue. After I got it home and up on the lift, I expected to see a blown u-joint, but instead I was greeted with this:



If you’re not sure what that is, it’s the passenger side of the block where the starter used to mount but now the starter is laying on the header with pieces of the block still attached to it. This explains why when I turned the key, I could hear the starter spin, but it wasn’t engaging the flywheel. My first thought was the clutch and/or flywheel exploded, but after seeing the starter laying there, I realized why the starter wasn’t engaging the flywheel.

Looking at the drive shaft revealed the culprit was one of those little 15 cent spiral locks that hold the u-joint cap in place.



I don’t know if the spiral lock failed or just came out of the groove, but when it did, it must have rocked the transmission pretty hard. Hard enough that the side of the block broke off or maybe the Quicktime bell housing hit the nose of the starter with enough force to break it off the side of the block!!!



Looking at this picture, the casting appears to be pretty thin. But how many millions of these blocks are in service on and off the track? At this point, what actually happened is anyone’s guess.
I spent the last week being pissed off, but now it’s time to get up, dust myself off, and get this thing fixed!

With my attitude corrected, I got on the phone with the Driveshaft Shop and ordered a dual CV joint shaft. After they shipped a rear CV flange for the Currie 9”, I reinstalled the T56 and measured for the new shaft. No more spiral locks for me! Step one done.



So now that you are up to date, my next issue is what to do with the engine. Obviously I need a new block. Checking with Summit, a new LS3 block, part # 12623967, is a little over $1500. However, since I have to tear the engine down, I can’t help but think of what I can do to make it better. I happen to have a virgin cast iron 6.0L block sitting in my shop so I was thinking I could get an all forged stroker kit for a little more money than a new LS3 block, have some machine work done on the 6.0L block, bolt all the LS3 components on and have a stout 408 cid LS! You know, the silver lining and all that!

My concern is, will all the LS3 components fit on the 6.0L block? Maybe you LS experts can chime in? Does this sound like a good plan?

[andrewb70]

WOW....that is super unfortunate. I am eager to hear your report after you install the double CV driveshaft! When you install it, make sure you mark the CV bolts with a paint marker and check the often. They tend to come loose.

I do not believe that a 6.0L block can be bored out enough to accommodate the stock 6.2L piston, but I am not 100% sure. The simplest thing would be to just get a new LS3 or LSA block. The LSA block will have piston squirters which might be a great upgrade.

Andrew

[454bug]

Hey Herb,

I'm sorry to hear about your misfortunes! The new setup is really sweet. This issue sure sounds like the perfect storm scenario. I've never heard of this kind of failure (block breakage).

Good luck with your choices. I have always been one to opt for light weight over a few more horsepower... With my race car, I can out run everyone on the track in the straights but they smoke me in the braking zones/corners! Going lighter is usually less harmful to other parts as well. It breaks less things and the tires and brakes last longer... But, there is nothing like more power... Tough choice!

It's great you cooled off and are ready to hit it again. I spent $10,000 on a top of the line DSS short block for my race car motor and in just one 8-hour race, we split the block from the crank webbing to the cam journals! You talk about needing a cool-down period before deciding to get a new Dart block and start over! I went with DSS' recommendation and thought all of their engine prep and main stud support system would be sufficient. 8 hours later, we had a cracked motor! Just another $1,500 in the first place (for the Dart block upgrade) and we would still be racing on that motor! Then, DSS wants to only give us $500 off another short block! This is an expensive hobby!

By the way, REALLY nice trailer!

[Yelcamino]

WOW....that is super unfortunate. I am eager to hear your report after you install the double CV driveshaft! When you install it, make sure you mark the CV bolts with a paint marker and check the often. They tend to come loose.

I do not believe that a 6.0L block can be bored out enough to accommodate the stock 6.2L piston, but I am not 100% sure. The simplest thing would be to just get a new LS3 or LSA block. The LSA block will have piston squirters which might be a great upgrade.

Andrew

Yeah, it is super unfortunate Andrew. But chit happens I guess. That's good to know about the CV bolts. I'll have to check the one on my C10 to make sure they're still tight.

I was aware the 6.0L couldn't take the LS3 pistons (I guess it could but I've been reading about the need to sonic test the block before boring that much) but I wasn't sure about the rest of the components. I'm still on the fence about just replacing the block or building a stouter short block with the 6.0L. The 6.0L idea will cost a bit more than just replacing the block, but it will have more cubes and an all forged bottom end along with ARP bolts.