71 Javelin Road Racer Build

[cmarcus]

Any more updates? This is a similar direction I am looking to go on my '74 Javelin. Keep us posted - love to see the progress!

[Bulletpruf]

Any more updates? This is a similar direction I am looking to go on my '74 Javelin. Keep us posted - love to see the progress!

Sorry about the delayed response. I've been busy moving from Virginia to Columbus/Fort Benning, Georgia. Garage is almost set up; hooking up my new compressor tomorrow. After that, it will be time to get back on the Javelin. Engine and trans are coming out, then will start on the rear suspension. Just need to nail down width, toe, pinion offset, and camber specs for a full floater 9". Not sure I will be able to get there with used stuff from Roush Yates; likely will get one custom built.

Thanks,

Scott

[linkstar69]

Nice to see something different done so extreme

[Bulletpruf]

Ok, the engine and trans are back out. Need to figure out how to attach my engine to my test stand. It's designed for GM type motor mounts.

Pulled the rear diff and leaf springs yesterday. Cleaned the rear off and it is nice! No pitting at all! Guess it was the combination of grime and low miles (33k) on a California car. Too bad I'm not keeping it.

Next step is to order some composite leaf springs (Flex Form or Hyperco) to replace the heavy stockers. Need to verify the measurements and place the order this week. These will set me back about $400 with shipping. Then I need to order the 9" rear - going with a NASCAR type full floater setup with 31 spline axles, 1 degree negative camber, NASCAR take off brakes (11 3/4" or 12"), NASCAR center section (with a Detroit True Track diff), etc. Will keep it in place with a panhard bar.

Front suspension comes next. Lots of different options there, from mild to wild (and EXPENSIVE!).

Thanks!

Scott

[irregal83]

wow cool build.. way to be different!

[Bulletpruf]

wow cool build.. way to be different!

Different is good until you start looking for parts...

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Got the car turned sideways in the garage; more room to work on it. Rear end and suspension are out. Half of the front suspension is off. Lots of YELLOW going on there - - see pics below. Appears to be paint, not powder coating, because it comes off with paint stripper. Car is a real joy to work on - super clean and rust free underneath. Beats the he11 out of working on an old nasty rustbucket.

This week I'm mailing a spring to Flex-Form so they can confirm dimensions and finalizing specs for 9" floater rear from Speedway Engineering.

Thanks,

Scott

[Flash68]

Very cool build!

[Bryce]

The two javelins at coronado speedfest transam race finished 1 and 2. great handling car!

[Bulletpruf]

Ordered the composite rear leaf springs (240#, low arch) from Flex-Form this week. Should give me about a 2" drop in the back. If I need more of a drop, I can go with lowering blocks.

Should have the rear end soon (9" full floater with 1* negative camber) from Speedway Engineering in California. Still need to get a center section; likely going to use a nodular case (can't use aluminum in American Iron), Detroit TrueTrack, 3.50 gear. Will set me back about $1,600 for a new one.

Going with Wilwood FSL calipers in the rear, 1.38" pistons, and 11.75" x .810 rotors. Lots of folks really like these calipers and they're only $300/pair from Summit. Will go with 13" rotors on the front, same calipers, but 1.75" pistons.

Met Al Kamhi of Control Freak Suspension this past weekend at the Peach State AMO show in Atlanta. I have been on the fence about the front suspension; either a new CF system or work with the stock suspension. However, after talking to Al, I realized that his stuff is well-engineered and uses quality parts. It's not cheap at $3,700, but I've made room in the budget for it. Only issue I have now is that I'm not sure my Armando's oil pan will fit with the CF suspension. If I have to, I'll swap it for a Milodon, but I'll lose some capacity.

Need to find a local fab shop (should be something in Atlanta) to weld in a dash bar, finish the bracing in the engine compartment, and fab up a mount for the steering column.

Thanks

Scott

[Bryce]

Scott,

Did they share any suspension geometry with you? THe IFS setup looks like MII. Is there enough camber gain for your setup or will you have to make some modifications?

[Bulletpruf]

Scott,

Did they share any suspension geometry with you? THe IFS setup looks like MII. Is there enough camber gain for your setup or will you have to make some modifications?

They use a modified forged MII spindle; not sure on the rest. With negative 1* of camber in the rear, I figure I need about 2* negative camber in the front. I haven't asked exactly how much camber I can expect, but their website does say, "Fully Adjustable Upper Control Arms – DOM Seamless Tube Upper Control Arm With Adjustable Bushing Ends, Graphite Impregnated Poly Bushings & Grade 8 Hardware. Better Geometry With 6 Degrees of Negative Roll Which Means More Positive Caster & More Camber."

I'll check with them to see if they can be more specific.

Thanks

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Just got off the phone with them, they said that 1.5* is all you can get with the unmodified version (stock you're limited to .3* unmodified), but if you trim about 1/8" off the rear side of the UCA, you can get a bit more.

Thanks

Scott

[Bryce]

What about camber gain?

[Bulletpruf]

What about camber gain?

I'm looking for 1* negative camber out back and 2* negative camber in the front. Am I missing something here?

Scott

[Bryce]

Camber gain is that amount of camber change per inch of suspension compression.

If static is -2* then you compress the suspension 1" (like during body roll), now you measure you "dynamic" camber. This new measurement will be your camber gain.

I like to balance camber gain to suspension compression in a 1G turn. I do this by looking at roll stiffness, CG height, front end weight and roll center. If you look at RC migration during a roll you will have to change your roll couple due to RC migration and CG height. Therefore, you will have a varying roll stiffness during roll.

I just hope you a buying something with some suspension design not just pretty and well made parts. 3600 dollars is some serious coin.

[kmdracer]

Very interesting. Nice to see something different.

[Bulletpruf]

Camber gain is that amount of camber change per inch of suspension compression.

If static is -2* then you compress the suspension 1" (like during body roll), now you measure you "dynamic" camber. This new measurement will be your camber gain.

I like to balance camber gain to suspension compression in a 1G turn. I do this by looking at roll stiffness, CG height, front end weight and roll center. If you look at RC migration during a roll you will have to change your roll couple due to RC migration and CG height. Therefore, you will have a varying roll stiffness during roll.

I just hope you a buying something with some suspension design not just pretty and well made parts. 3600 dollars is some serious coin.

Appreciate the explanation. It makes my head hurt, but I follow what you are saying. Looks like I need to do more research.

Thanks,

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Speedway Engineering rear end and Wilwood brakes showed up. Nice stuff!

Ordered the center section - Yukon nodular case, Detroit TrueTrac diff, 3.50 gear, forged yoke (1350 u joint), aluminum Daytona pinion support. Got it from Randy's Ring and Pinion - great prices. Should be here next week.

Scott

[Bulletpruf]

Still making steady progress. Rear suspension is close to being complete. Details and pics follow.

Speedway Engineering Full Floater Rear - 1* negative camber, 0* pinion angle, 31 spline axles, 1" narrower than stock, spring pads in stock location.


And a shot of it sitting on the springs. Car is very clean and rust free; beats the he11 out of working on a rustbucket.


Bought some leaf spring/shock mount brackets from Mancini Racing (Mopar stuff) and some from Summit Racing (Allstar brand); will use whichever ones look better to secure the rear to the Flex Form composite springs. Stock stuff won't work b/c the 9" has 3" tubes and the AMC 20 had 2.5" tubes.


9" center section from Randy's Ring and Pinion - TrueTrac diff, 3.50 gear, aluminum Daytona pinion support, Yukon case.


Assembled the hub and rotor and associated hardware this past weekend. Sorry, no safety wire, but I did use AN bolts and jet nuts (like a nylock, but all metal b/c of the heat) with a fair amount of red Loctite. Using Wilwood rotors, 11.75" x .810" and Wilwood FSL calipers, 1 3/8" pistons. Hubs are aluminum Speedway Mod Light, 5 on 4.5".