1984 Monte SC - Bringing Bertha Back

[monteboy84]

Been a while since I updated, I haven't really been working on this but I need room in the garage so I'm pushing to finish it up now in order to get it down off the jack stands.



I had originally planned to run the truck accessories, but all of the parts I bought were used and came in looking like junk. To top it off, everything was a bit half-assed in terms of how things fit. I tried a number of solutions to the issue of clearance between the steering pump and box, hated all of them. Not to mention, even when the pulley cleared, the way I'd have to run the lines was pretty hokey. Long story short, I set aside the truck parts and bought a Corvette Accessory Drive kit from Pace, this is one hell of a good deal when you consider the price versus aftermarket or even used parts. To duplicate this with used parts would cost me more than new from Pace. I also bought an LS3 Corvette waterpump that was a never-run crate engine take-off on ebay, as well as a used harmonic balancer from a Corvette. It's worth noting, this Accy Drive will NOT work with a Camaro LS3 balancer, the offset is different. The LS3 water pump also has a different outlet location than the 5.3 or LS1, which makes radiator hose routing a bit easier. The pump is lighter than the stock truck piece, but I don't know how much, I've ehard varying numbers. If I weigh mine before installing, I'll document that here.




Swapping this gives me a good chance to clean up the front of the engine. I need to buy/borrow/rent a puller for the balancer, so I just left the truck one in place for prep and paint. All I used to clean up the rust and loose paint is my straight bristle steel wire brush on the Dewalt drill. It does a good job, and the Rustoleum Industrial paint will cover a certain amount of remaining rust. I usually don't like Gloss paint under the hood, but this stuff is really durable and they don't have a Satin, only Gloss or Flat.




Also had to paint the LS3 Balancer...

Much gooder.




I had gaskets for the water pump, but I can't find them now so I'll pick up some Fel Pro's on my way home tonight, more to come.

-matt

[Ron.in.SoCal]

Recently went through that install. Had to borrow a tool from the local GM service tech (+ a six pack). The GM pulley removal tool is just ok; Snap On makes a better one. Also there is an install tool as well. Bolts are torque to yield so I got a new one as well. IIRC, torque to 35 pounds and then stretch 140 degrees. It's a good time to pin the crank if you're into that sorta thing

[monteboy84]

Thanks Ron! I've got access to some really nice pullers at a family shop, but they're 70 miles away so I may just need to wait and borrow one. For installation, I've got a Porta Power with some hollow cylinders so I may give that a try. I'm a bit torn on the bolt and pinning the crank. On one hand, I know where they're coming from with the torque-to-yield bolt, but at the same time, they're one hell of a press fit, so I think it's a bunch of overkill to use a TTY bolt as well.

I don't have any plans to run a blower or anything, so I don't know what I'll do, probably skip the pin for now and order up an ARP bolt for it.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Worked on it some more last night, found some water pump gaskets and got the accessory drive installed. This really is a great kit, it fits like it was made for this car and having all new parts gives me some real peace of mind about traveling far from home in it.



The Gates 20734 hose fits great without any cutting.


With the truck balancer still in place, you can see the difference in offset, it looks to be a little over 1 inch.


Steering box clearance is good, there's an inch or more between the PS pulley and the fittings. The return line will be a simple straight AN6 Push-lock fitting and hose, and the pressure line will be a short loop of high-pressure AN6 hose. I used DSE's AN6 fitting in the pump to provide clearance for the hose end when I install it.


-matt

[howehot]

A cheap installation tool is a variety of bolts in different lengths and a washer. I can't remember the metric size but I just bought one of each length until I was able to use the retaining bolt.

[monteboy84]

Some more slow, relatively meaningless progress. The air intake is a modified K&N Cold Air kit from a chevy truck, it's aluminum and was chromed, but when I cut it apart at a weld seam to turn part of it, the chrome started to flake. Since I'm not a big fan of chrome in general, I peeled the rest of it off in order to paint the tube. The valve covers were also ugly, so I decided to tackle them at the same time. VHT Black Wrinkle Paint to the rescue, this stuff did a great job and honestly for my first time with it, came out so near to the look of a powdercoated wrinkle finish that I see no reason to spend the additional money for that. I cleaned up all of the parts well with Zep Foaming Engine Degreaser, cleaned up casting flaws/parting lines on the valve covers with the belt sander, and went over everything with 400 grit before paint. The paint was heated in HOT water before spraying, and the parts were cured at 200 degrees for an hour after spraying. Not perfect, but I'm very happy with the results.





-matt

[monteboy84]

A cheap installation tool is a variety of bolts in different lengths and a washer. I can't remember the metric size but I just bought one of each length until I was able to use the retaining bolt.

I've tried something similar before on a power steering pump and had issues. So long as you use a quality high-grade fastener you'll be alright, but it's still a bit risky. On this one, I'll get it off with a puller, but then to ease the install I'll throw the balancer in the oven for a bit to warm it up, that should get it on without too much drama (4 foot breaker bar )

-matt

[monteboy84]

Valve covers are looking good.


Upper radiator hose built. I was going to use silicone elbows and an aluminum tube, but that $#!7 is expensive, and nobody carries it. I took a Dayco 72044 and cut and lengthened it with a chromed brass 1.25 sink pipe from Home Depot, scuffed to dull the chrome. The 72044 hose fits a Chrysler minivan, so even if it blew out on a cross-country trip, I think I could find a replacement pretty easily.


Intake is all put together. I've got a K&N Bulge connector on one joint, and a Rubber PVC connector on another. Looks cheesy so I'll replace them later with clamps from spectre.


Random picture from mocking up rad hoses. I really need to work on my iphone photography skills :/


-matt

[daveybtv]

looks like a tight fit, keep up the good work

[monteboy84]

looks like a tight fit, keep up the good work

It looks worse than it is, it's really no worse than working on the old SBC in the car. Ideally, I'd have the motor pushed ahead maybe 3/8"? Right now I have the passenger side valve cover off because it was contacting the heater box. I don't like that at all, and I don't want to clearance the heater box. To make it clear will have maybe .000001% effect on the weight bias, so I'm leaning toward pushing it ahead for ease of wrenching.

-matt

[monteboy84]

Filthy throttle body is filthy, time to clean it up...

MMM, yummy

Removed the coolant tubes. I just clamped the tube in the vise, then heated the throttle body with the torch for a bit, and wiggled the TB back and forth until it pulled off the tube. Same thing for the other one. This literally is just a hole in the TB, with nothing connected to it, so it will stay wide open and not hurt a thing.

Getting better, I used Zep's foaming engine cleaner to get the filth off.

Then some bead blasting, and voila.

Cleaned these up too.

I could have just as well left it raw, but figured I'd coat it to seal it up. The TB was a bit pitted up, so I think it'd look ugly in a hurry without paint. Decided on Flat Black to make it match the intake.


I'm happy with how it came out. In my naturally backward process, I'm thinking about porting it this weekend, I didn't realize how simple it was to do a basic P&P on them until looking at it and reading some write-ups on the subject.

-matt

[SRD art]

Great progress Matt. I like wrinkle finish too.

[monteboy84]

I got a ton of work done on this last week and weekend, my wiring harness is about complete and I got the battery relocated to the trunk and wired. I have too many pictures to sort out at work but I'm going to try getting them posted tonight from at home. Shooting for June 15th as my ETA to have it running and driving.

-matt

[TURBO BUICK]

Matt, it's comming along nicely. Anymore updates? Pics and description of how you mounted and wired the trunk battery would be appreciated. I am hoping to start on my build shortly and am always looking for info. Again, nice job. Rich

[monteboy84]

Matt, it's comming along nicely. Anymore updates? Pics and description of how you mounted and wired the trunk battery would be appreciated. I am hoping to start on my build shortly and am always looking for info. Again, nice job. Rich

Thanks! I need to organize and upload pictures, but the car will be on the road this weekend. I tried firing it up last weekend but had issues with the truck underhood fuse block so I ordered pieces to eliminate it.

I have to finish the battery mount this weekend as well, but the wiring was very easy. I had originally planned to run the cable along the frame rail (bad idea) but found that it easily fit into the stock plastic wire channel that runs under the door sill plates. From there I ran it beneath the rear seat and right up into the trunk. I use 2ga welding cable, in my experience it's better quality and cheaper than what's sold as battery cable.

[monteboy84]

The car is running! (Finally) Now, to show how it got there....

I needed a high pressure pump and hated the idea of a GN pump, which would starve under cornering and undoubtedly be unreliable. So, I bought a Dorman replacement tank.


I needed to change it, so I cut this lovely hole in it.


To make room for this.


Which would be mounted with this.


Then I welded it in.


and test-fitted.


I needed to bring it to the shop, so I loaded it in the Z06.


Then I put some paint on it.


With it in the car, I ran some lines and installed this.

[monteboy84]

I changed motor mount plates to move the motor ahead slightly. Here it is, going in one last time.


Happy Happy Happy.


Getting closer.


Oooh


Then it was time to work on a hoist, so I had to get it ready to move. First time it's been on the ground since late 2011.


I needed exhaust, so I decided to make some.


My MIG tacks made my TIG welds look sloppy, thankfully nobody will see this under the car


When I was happy with the fit, I welded on some flanges.


To keep it from cracking, I added these snazzy flex-joints, one on each side.


I got as far as the X-pipe before it was time to clean up for the weekend.

[RS_Customs]

Looks good!

Where did you get the pump kit or parts?

Robert

[monteboy84]

Thanks!

The pump was a take-out that we had lying around from an 03 Pontiac Aztek because it had a bad wiring connector. It happened to be the height that I wanted, so I put a new connector on and I'll replace the pump with a Walbro at some point.

The sheetmetal parts are my own design. I'm a draftsman so I modelled them up in Inventor and had them laser-cut at work.

[CruizinKev]

good work Matt!!! I like that Aztek pump mod!!