FiTech Systems

[Windycity1]

I'm not using the fuel command center or mechanical pump. Aeromotive stealth tank.

[camaro468]

i ordered the EFI 8. about 4 weeks ago should be seeing it soon, already installed TANKS fuel tank and pump, cant wait to try it out.

[Y-TRY]

I am watching intently for real world experience here. More than anyone I've seen, my combination teeters on the performance of this system:

Old set up: SBC 406, twin turbo, CSU blow through carb.($1300) MSD E-curve distributor ($300),MSD 6BTM($300), Aeromotive 13204 bypass Regulator($150$. Very limited tuning capability, though this combo was impressive at 925fwhp on pump gas on the break-in tune. Dialed-in, it was easily 1000hp on 93 octane.

New option A: SBC 434, twin turbo, same CSU carb ($1300),locked-out E-curve, new Programmable 6AL ($375), new Aeromotive pump controller ($325), new pwm fan controller ($200). AutoMeter AFR dummy gauge ($300). Limited timing/fuel control.

New option B: FiTech Go EFI 8, PowerAdder ($1500). Done. No regulator, pump controller, gauge or ignition box. The fact I can eliminate several components offsets all costs and I could tune infinitely for timing and AFR , which is a big deal in turbo applications over a carb. MPFI would be more ideal, so I'll watch the price points as those come out. I'm keenly aware of distribution issues of a wet intake system, but the FiTech would make that no better or worse over the carb in the TB format, but still open up a new universe of asymmetrical timing curves and boost-referenced cues for methanol and/or boost control, nitrous retard or manual clutch delay.

The point is that FiTech costs less than my blow-thru did a few years ago and I still had to bolster it with several separate components at additional cost.

I can't see a downside to selling my CSU carb, regulator and BTM and replacing it all with FiTech GoEFI 8, IF it performs as advertised. Unless the functions completely fail it should be miles ahead in tuning over my blow-thru set up for less than my original investment. It could pay for itself by selling those parts, even locking out the E-curve (shame). Although I really don't see the point with an N/A conversion, the blow-thru crowd should really take notice of these new systems,whether FiTech or Holley. The game has changed when EFI capability costs less than a specialized carb.

[scott67ss396]

well said my friend, I have a Procharger D1SC, just saving up for the EFI 8 as well.

[Willis808]

You do not need one for the high side as it is built into the Command Center. You do however need one to the supply side if your pressure is greater than 8psi. These were designed with the intent that the customer would be utilizing the factory mechanical fuel pump to feed the Command Center thus saving an extra expense. If you utilize a high pressure pump from the tank you will need to regulate it down to 8psi or lower. Most mechanical pumps will not exceed 7psi.

Thanks bud. But like mentioned myself and a couple others are not using there Command Center Tank set up. We are running EFI pump set up going straight into the TBI (GoEFI8). I read up on it again and it states it does not need a external fuel regulator since one is built into the TBI. I was just curious if anyone has spoke to them regarding this if they could confirm that. I was just going off there site.

Regarding the command center, I think you need to regulate it due to filling up the surge tank (command center) too fast and it not being able to deal with the pressure since you can run it returnees. But thank again for your input, Im pretty sure it will answer someone exact question in the future.

[Willis808]

well said my friend, I have a Procharger D1SC, just saving up for the EFI 8 as well.

Just my opinion, If I was making over 1k whp I would not go with this set up. I always want some headroom with my fuel set up, to the actual power Im achieving. Example, I am sitting at 600hp current with the 8 injector TBI set up from GoEFI. When its time to install a higher HP set up TT632 I will go with a different EFI configuration. A true Port Injection EFI with faster EMS system. Nothing better then full control over everything plus running flex fuel on big power, with a ton a failsafes. Below 1k HP I think this FiTech system is good to go. Again just my personal opinion.

[camaro468]

I called fitech ask about regulator with in tank set up, they said no need for it , i am concerned about low vacuum with my motor, 565 " makes 698 hp but only 8" of vacuum

[F-Body International]

I am watching intently for real world experience here. More than anyone I've seen, my combination teeters on the performance of this system:

Old set up: SBC 406, twin turbo, CSU blow through carb.($1300) MSD E-curve distributor ($300),MSD 6BTM($300), Aeromotive 13204 bypass Regulator($150$. Very limited tuning capability, though this combo was impressive at 925fwhp on pump gas on the break-in tune. Dialed-in, it was easily 1000hp on 93 octane.

New option A: SBC 434, twin turbo, same CSU carb ($1300),locked-out E-curve, new Programmable 6AL ($375), new Aeromotive pump controller ($325), new pwm fan controller ($200). AutoMeter AFR dummy gauge ($300). Limited timing/fuel control.

New option B: FiTech Go EFI 8, PowerAdder ($1500). Done. No regulator, pump controller, gauge or ignition box. The fact I can eliminate several components offsets all costs and I could tune infinitely for timing and AFR , which is a big deal in turbo applications over a carb. MPFI would be more ideal, so I'll watch the price points as those come out. I'm keenly aware of distribution issues of a wet intake system, but the FiTech would make that no better or worse over the carb in the TB format, but still open up a new universe of asymmetrical timing curves and boost-referenced cues for methanol and/or boost control, nitrous retard or manual clutch delay.

The point is that FiTech costs less than my blow-thru did a few years ago and I still had to bolster it with several separate components at additional cost.

I can't see a downside to selling my CSU carb, regulator and BTM and replacing it all with FiTech GoEFI 8, IF it performs as advertised. Unless the functions completely fail it should be miles ahead in tuning over my blow-thru set up for less than my original investment. It could pay for itself by selling those parts, even locking out the E-curve (shame). Although I really don't see the point with an N/A conversion, the blow-thru crowd should really take notice of these new systems,whether FiTech or Holley. The game has changed when EFI capability costs less than a specialized carb.

The single 4150 carburetor has more power potential than the TBI's. If already twin turbo and pushing 1000-2000hp, carb is probably the only way to go at this point. It's almost funny seeing people talk about engines <1000hp when you have people at engine shops pushing past 2000hp with a single 4150 carburetor. Thanks Steve Morrison...
http://www.stevemorrisengines.com/dyno-videos?l=31&n=10

[jasonsnova]

Anyone know if the fitech will control a ls engine? I have a lq4/6.0 with a carb intake for my nova and the msd box but was wondering if it would control ls components ie cam,crank sensors and coils??? Even if it doesn't I am strongly considering this a d just use the msd box to drive coils/timing

[Nicks67GTO]

Ordered my Go EFI 4 today. FiTech says at 600hp/600 ft lbs I should be safe since their systems are under rated. I was concerned for a build im planning for next fall. Ill document the install on my current mild 455, along with the Tanks inc EFI tank and report back. It will be spring time before I fire it though.

[andrewb70]

Anyone know if the fitech will control a ls engine? I have a lq4/6.0 with a carb intake for my nova and the msd box but was wondering if it would control ls components ie cam,crank sensors and coils??? Even if it doesn't I am strongly considering this a d just use the msd box to drive coils/timing

No.

Putting a TBI on a LS engine is like replacing your iPhone with a rotary phone. It just doesn't make any sense.

If you have a carb intake for a LS engine, sell it. Get the OEM EFI hardware and a Holley HP, and call it a day! Why mess with the MSD box for timing and the fitech for fuel, when you can have multi-point, sequential EFI!?

Andrew

[Windycity1]

No.

Putting a TBI on a LS engine is like replacing your iPhone with a rotary phone. It just doesn't make any sense.

If you have a carb intake for a LS engine, sell it. Get the OEM EFI hardware and a Holley HP, and call it a day! Why mess with the MSD box for timing and the fitech for fuel, when you can have multi-point, sequential EFI!?

Andrew

I agree. Defeats the purpose of an LS engine.

[jasonsnova]

No.

Putting a TBI on a LS engine is like replacing your iPhone with a rotary phone. It just doesn't make any sense.

If you have a carb intake for a LS engine, sell it. Get the OEM EFI hardware and a Holley HP, and call it a day! Why mess with the MSD box for timing and the fitech for fuel, when you can have multi-point, sequential EFI!?

Andrew

I guess....just fitech seemed so easy and clean looking....+ i dont have intake ,injectors, rails ,theottle body etc,etc....anyone got a ls3 intake for sale? Lol

[Jetfixr320]

You wouldn't be the 1st or last person to put a carb on one.

[Willis808]

My set up is almost there. Work is what is causing a big delay, I keep having to leave town for assignments. The new tank, fuel lines, and some brackets I had to fab up added to the install. Here are some pics of the before and during the install. I cant wait till its done and see how it runs. The dyno is getting some software upgrades, but hope to have it ready to get strapped on when the conversion is done.

[HandOverFist]

What intake are you using Willis?

[Willis808]

Which ever one came on a ZZ502/502 package. Im still learning about Big Block parts. hahaha. I soak up what ever new info I can from this site. I come from decently big power imports and newer gen vehicles, oh and built motorcycles. So Im still a guppy in this world...

[Willis808]

But if there is someplace on the intake mani that would have some markings or a certain design I can happily check for you bud.

[Y-TRY]

The single 4150 carburetor has more power potential than the TBI's. If already twin turbo and pushing 1000-2000hp, carb is probably the only way to go at this point. It's almost funny seeing people talk about engines <1000hp when you have people at engine shops pushing past 2000hp with a single 4150 carburetor. Thanks Steve Morrison...
http://www.stevemorrisengines.com/dyno-videos?l=31&n=10

I totally agree with you on peak power potential (to clarify, I'm not making 1000 wheel hp. I stated an estimated flywheel hp). No one should expect to make more peak power by switching from regular carb to EFI. I'm not expecting more peak power, though I predict a little more along the rest of the curve and at part throttle.

My interest is in (engine) safety, specifically in switching from blow-through to FITech. Even with a very good carb like CSU, the best one can do is to set a very broad tune for a very narrow set of conditions (like full throttle on a dyno or in a drag race). So we set it, stab the gas, and cross our fingers. A wide-band A/F gauge is nice to have but it's only real purpose is to inform us of a lean condition so we can let-off before blowing anything up. Afterwards, you can pull the carb off and throw a dart at what might have caused the problem, probably causing another problem or compromising performance somewhere else (i.e. running overly fat under normal conditions to avoid starving at full throttle). This situation is especially true with a blow-through street-car since forced induction throws a whole new set of variables into the mix.

The argument for EFI (even TBI), in my eyes, is that it enables us to fine tune to a myriad of driving conditions, without compromising in one area to bolster another. The ECU doesn't just detect and inform about possibly harmful leaning-out, it CORRECTS for it in real time. In fact, it's constantly correcting for best performance in every imaginable circumstance.

[camaro468]

Just finished my install and went for 20 mile ride.