68 Firebird - Build My Way - UnProEverything

[blade]

Nice ride, looks like you are starting to make good progress!

[FireBeater]

Looking good. It is nice to have a little helper also! My little helper is 3 and loves our black truck and Smokey and the Bandit. What else could you ask for!

I helped my dad work on the family cars all the time when I was young. I was in JR High my older brother picked up a 1969 Firebird, which started the car craze. I guess I was a little helper and I love having 3 little helpers.

[FireBeater]

Thanks for the kind note. I agree the car is making some progress. I hope to make some more coming up ( suspension, brakes, etc)

[FireBeater]

Nice ride, looks like you are starting to make good progress!

Thanks for the kind note. I agree the car is making some progress. I hope to make some more coming up ( suspension, brakes, etc)

[FireBeater]

Has Any used an Arduino board to make a digital dash? In combination with an Android device for a digital gauge display?

[FireBeater]

Hey guys, I picked up some new Energy Suspension front body mounts. This is a comparison of the old (yuck) and the new. This mount is the one directly under the firewall.




out with the old and in with the new.

[FireBeater]

I had time to start taking the front end apart. I got the shocks, sway bar, springs and LCA off. I had trouble with the LCA, I think the car had been hit before. I saw some carnage around the bolt holes that will need to be re-welded and fixed. This is my after shot once all of it has been removed. Still need to clean it up!

[FireBeater]

Hey Gang,

As stated, I ripped out the front end and cleaned it up and got in my new front suspension parts. I recvd my Hotchkis TVS and also Global West UCA and LCA bushings.

My brother in law brought over his MAC Tools bushing press. This was a charm!! I have read so many times that it is a pain in the a$$ to change out the control arm bushings. I did it two ways. I first drilled out the rubbers on one side and the other side I left in the rubbers. When using this MAC Tools Bushing press, I recommend not drilling out the rubbers. The Tool had more "meat" to grab and push with the rubbers in the bushing. In all, I spent about 2 hours changing out the bushings from the old junk and pressing in the new Global West bushings. Of that time I spent .5 hours drilling out the bushings and then 45 minutes on getting those bushing housings out. The other side I spent about 15 minutes to press out and press in. That tool was soooo awesome. It was strong and sturdy. I was going to pay some shop to press out and press in the bushings for $80 but did not have too. Thanks so my brother in-law. Thanks man.


Awesome Tool!



Also installed new Moog lower ball joints. I hear they are good, but I have not used them. I will keep you posted on how they work out. I just pressed them in using the MAC Tool. I have seen guys do a tack weld on the LBJ but did not want to. We will see what happens.

This is the LCA with new parts installed.

[FireBeater]

Ok, So This is just cool to me. I do not have the measurements on hand but it can clearly be seen here.

I have the old and new UCA in this picture. The Global West has shifted the position to increase the footing of the tire to increase the handling of the car.

You can see the angle difference between the stock and the new LCA.

This shift moves the spindle back further.



I can not wait to drive this thing and feel the difference.

[FireBeater]

out with the old skinny and in with the new beefy sway bar

[68400BIRD]

Before you try putting in the lower control arms that did not want to come out. Try this little trick that I found on one of my frequented car sites. Get some all thread rod with some washers and nuts. Insert the threaded rod through one side and start installing washer/nut/nut/washer so the rod is sticking out both sides. Then tighten the nuts out with the washers making contact inside of the control arm frame mounting points. Spread the frame out a little so your newly painted control arms slide right in.

[FireBeater]

that is a great idea! I have already installed the lowers control arms just the other day. I will remember that for next time. The LCA did not go in like I wanted, more work than suspected. I did put a little greasy on the bushings that touch the frame and that helped enough to slide in.

[FireBeater]

I got the front end back together.

Global West UCA

Hotchkis 2 inch drop sport springs

Hotchkis TVS Sway bar

Global West LCA bushings

KYB Front shocks



yes, I still need new rotors...

[FireBeater]

Speaking of rotors, I read recently that Drilled and Slotted rotors are louder then stock. Anybody heard of this before? I still plan on D/S rotors but want to be prepared for any additional noise

[rustomatic]

I had a '68 Firebird about 20 years ago--it was a fun car, and had way too much motor (hotrodded 400) for me at the time. One hysterical moment was getting the throttle stuck in the middle of a city block after doing what was intended to be a short burnout: wrong. At any rate, you're smart in going for stages, rather than the whole "perfect" thing at once. I've been working on my Falcon since 2010 (bought it after it sat in someone's driveway for 10 years), and since then, it's had three engines, three transmissions, and 2.75 or so suspensions. The third motor (new!) has to come back out now, due to a bad pilot bearing--the evolution has been fun, but a breather is needed now and then. This is why it's great to be able to flog the snot out of the car during/between stages. Try to control the obsession...

[rustomatic]

If you hammer the brakes with drilled rotors, they will buzz; granted, I've only had them on motorcycles and mountain bikes. Slotted only doesn't seem to make a difference noise-wise--I've got these on the front of my Falcon. Go for long-term durability, and avoid drilled rotors if you can.

Speaking of rotors, I read recently that Drilled and Slotted rotors are louder then stock. Anybody heard of this before? I still plan on D/S rotors but want to be prepared for any additional noise

[FireBeater]

Thanks for the input. I was also going to ask about the difference between D/S and Drilled. I see some of the Vettes only have slotted.

If you hammer the brakes with drilled rotors, they will buzz; granted, I've only had them on motorcycles and mountain bikes. Slotted only doesn't seem to make a difference noise-wise--I've got these on the front of my Falcon. Go for long-term durability, and avoid drilled rotors if you can.

[FireBeater]

I enjoy cars so much and I know it is in my blood. I can not seem to shake it, even after 20 years. So I know that one day I will have Level V ride all pro. This first Level will still be fun and a great platform to build on. Thanks for the note.

I had a '68 Firebird about 20 years ago--it was a fun car, and had way too much motor (hotrodded 400) for me at the time. One hysterical moment was getting the throttle stuck in the middle of a city block after doing what was intended to be a short burnout: wrong. At any rate, you're smart in going for stages, rather than the whole "perfect" thing at once. I've been working on my Falcon since 2010 (bought it after it sat in someone's driveway for 10 years), and since then, it's had three engines, three transmissions, and 2.75 or so suspensions. The third motor (new!) has to come back out now, due to a bad pilot bearing--the evolution has been fun, but a breather is needed now and then. This is why it's great to be able to flog the snot out of the car during/between stages. Try to control the obsession...

[1965gp]

Looks lie a fun build. I still have my car from high school (20 yrs ago) and am so glad I didn't part with it! Now it is pretty much restored and my favorite car to drive..

[FireBeater]

So the bird is back on the ground. With pivot of the front suspension and lowering I think I resolved some of the fender to tire space. I think I will have more for the turns.