pro-touring '68 firebird...on a budget

[68400BIRD]

With out going through the last few pages, here are a few questions.

Do you have new body mounts installed? Are they rubber or solid?
Did you torque any of the suspension when it was hanging in the air?
How is the air pressure in all of the tires?
Do you have a rear anti sway bar?

[68Formula]

With out going through the last few pages, here are a few questions.

Do you have new body mounts installed? Are they rubber or solid?
Did you torque any of the suspension when it was hanging in the air?
How is the air pressure in all of the tires?
Do you have a rear anti sway bar?

Did a previous owner install subframe connectors? Are they welded or bolt in?

[68firebird]

Did a previous owner install subframe connectors? Are they welded or bolt in?

I had subframe connectors put in last year, they are global west, weld in back, bolt in front.

[68firebird]

With out going through the last few pages, here are a few questions.

Do you have new body mounts installed? Are they rubber or solid?
Did you torque any of the suspension when it was hanging in the air?
How is the air pressure in all of the tires?
Do you have a rear anti sway bar?

Solid body mounts, new.
Yes I did, but I've since loosened it all up on the ground and bounced the car a bunch.
Air pressure is at 40psi in all 4
No rear sway bar.

[68Formula]

I had subframe connectors put in last year, they are global west, weld in back, bolt in front.

Did you put in the new bushings before, or after you installed the subframe connectors?

If the subframe bushings were worn, the subframe not sit level to the body. Then if you bolt the front of the subframe connectors, and then welded the rear body, now it's all one solid piece. So if you put in new bushings after that (which are all even height-wise and equally torqued), it will cause some twist to the body. It's a little hard to describe, but hopefully you can visualize it.

[68firebird]

Did you put in the new bushings before, or after you installed the subframe connectors?

If the subframe bushings were worn, the subframe not sit level to the body. Then if you bolt the front of the subframe connectors, and then welded the rear body, now it's all one solid piece. So if you put in new bushings after that (which are all even height-wise and equally torqued), it will cause some twist to the body. It's a little hard to describe, but hopefully you can visualize it.

I installed the body bushings before I had the connectors welded in. If there was some kind if twist, any ideas how to get the lean so it's within a quarter inch, it's about an inch now. Looks friggan terrible

[68Formula]

I installed the body bushings before I had the connectors welded in. If there was some kind if twist, any ideas how to get the lean so it's within a quarter inch, it's about an inch now. Looks friggan terrible

If the subframe connectors were installed after the new body bushings, with the car supported on the suspension, then most likely that's not the problem. Maybe trying unbolting the subframe connectors at the front, and see if there's any change.

[68400BIRD]

I know you were going to check to see if the coils were seated correctly in the subframe.
Have you done that yet?
Are the coils clocked in the lower pocket of the control arm correctly? There should be two holes in the control arm. The end of the coil should be in between those two holes.

[68firebird]

I know you were going to check to see if the coils were seated correctly in the subframe.
Have you done that yet?
Are the coils clocked in the lower pocket of the control arm correctly? There should be two holes in the control arm. The end of the coil should be in between those two holes.

Yes, I checked AND my mechanic checked, both sides were sitting properly on top and on bottom. I actually went a step further yesterday and swapped the 1/2 inch spacer out on the drivers front and put a 3/8 inch one in (figuring it would lower the drivers side a tad), tightened it all up on the ground and took it for a ride to settle it. STILL leans bad, really didn't see a change anywhere by doing this! seein as nobody can figure this out yet I'm scared this is going to be a problem that's gonna be expensive to fix, and I just don't have the cash for that.

EDIT: forgot to mention, one guy that looked at it noticed that on the pass side, right below where the back of the connector is welded to the frame (global west connectors), the connector is practically right up against the unibody frame, but on the drivers side there is about a half or 3/4 inch of room between the connector and the unibody frame, but the frame sits in the pocket on the connector the same on both sides. I hope that makes sense! I can get pics if needed, I don't know if that says anything about whats going on.

[68400BIRD]

Could it be as simple as one of the springs being stronger or weaker than the other one? Did they both look to be the same height before installing them?
I have also seen where a leaf spring sag can affect the front of the car.

[68firebird]

ok, I hope I might have figured it out, I'm gonna run it by my mechanic tonight, but figured I'd ask you guys. please tell me if this makes sense. I had these subframe connectors welded in last year with the weak leaf springs (by my mechanic), which the car had the lean back then. so even though I replaced the leaf springs the connectors are welded in with the previous lean, I'm thinking that would be why there is no gap between the connector and frame on the pass side and there is a bigger gap on the drivers side, and no matter what I do seems to correct the problem. so I'm thinking if they cut the welds and take these off it should straighten the body back out. Does that make sense to you guys? cause I'm pretty damn sure there is nothing wrong with any of my springs.

[68Formula]

ok, I hope I might have figured it out, I'm gonna run it by my mechanic tonight, but figured I'd ask you guys. please tell me if this makes sense. I had these subframe connectors welded in last year with the weak leaf springs (by my mechanic), which the car had the lean back then. so even though I replaced the leaf springs the connectors are welded in with the previous lean, I'm thinking that would be why there is no gap between the connector and frame on the pass side and there is a bigger gap on the drivers side, and no matter what I do seems to correct the problem. so I'm thinking if they cut the welds and take these off it should straighten the body back out. Does that make sense to you guys? cause I'm pretty damn sure there is nothing wrong with any of my springs.

I'm not really picturing those two being related. But considering there's a difference in gap from the rear frame and body, it would probably be a good idea to grind off the welds, fix the lean problem (if it still exists after doing that), and weld them back in after everything is sitting right.

Did you try just unbolting the front of the subframe connectors like I suggested, to see if there's a change?

[68firebird]

I'm not really picturing those two being related. But considering there's a difference in gap from the rear frame and body, it would probably be a good idea to grind off the welds, fix the lean problem (if it still exists after doing that), and weld them back in after everything is sitting right.

Did you try just unbolting the front of the subframe connectors like I suggested, to see if there's a change?

Not yet. I'm probably not gonna have the time to so it this weekend either. I'm dropping it off Monday night so I will probably just have mechanic take the connectors off and see if anything changes, otherwise I'll leave them off till it's fixed

[68firebird]

Ok, she's been at my mechanics now for 2 weeks, just checked in with them this morning and should be getting it back on Monday. The result: subframe is a tad tweaked. So they shimmed here and there to get it to sit level until I'm ready to replace the subframe, but at least it sits level.

I've been debating on selling this and getting into something else, maybe another 3rd gen f-body. I'm just not sure yet what I want to do, although my wife seems to think I have my mind made up on selling!

In the meantime I'd like to put a brake booster in. So my question is which size booster? Single or dual diaphragm? It's got LS1 brakes in front and stock drums in back.

EDIT: something like this should work fine, right? http://www.performanceonline.com/196...e-Booster-Kit/

[dusterbd13]

i used a used s10 blazer booster with stock firewall brackets and a welded together pushrod on mine. cheapest I could get a booster.

[68firebird]

Thanks for the advice Michael. I think I'm gonna try going with a stock 11 inch booster, should fit since I've got a sbc with short valve covers.

anyway, I picked the car up from my mechanic and she is sitting level and all aligned and drives good! so the brake booster will be ordered this week.

[Buryingthesun]

Do you understand how pissed off Im going to be if you seel this. . .

[68firebird]

Do you understand how pissed off Im going to be if you sell this. . .

hahaha, well its not going anywhere just yet. everyone around me tells me to not get rid of it, even my mechanic and my wife. And my wife not wanting me to is kinda hard to believe. she must have a soft spot for it. LOL.

[68firebird]

Plasti dipped my rims black last night and finally got to a small cruise night tonight.

[Buryingthesun]

That should be my car it's next too :-/