Varishock installation

[wmhjr]

I started installing the Varishocks I just got. Quickset2 for front and rear. Going on the Pontiac, which as OEM style spindles, and the SC&C stuff (tall ball joints, adjustable UCA, tubular LCA, SPC springs, Hellwig tubular sway bar).

To be honest, it's been a PITA so far. Since the shocks are too large to fit through the opening in the tubular lowers (or stock ones, for that matter) the LCA needs to be separated from the spindle to allow the shock to be installed inside first. So you have to bolt the ears of the shock bottom to the LCA, then slide the coil spring over, then (here's the combination) rotate the LCA up, align the ball joint with the spindle, keep the coil indexed properly, and get the top of the shock shaft through the upper mount. Whew! After a bunch of head scratching and multiple attempts I did get one on. BTW, I did know in advance that I'd have to do this, but didn't expect it to be quite as much of a pain.

Here's the question for any of you Varishock users out there. In order to maintain clearance of the adjusters to the coil, the adjusters must be facing the rotor (toward the outside of the car). Unfortunately, with the springs correctly indexed, one of the adjusters is hidden by a coil. You can't get the tool (allen wrench basically) in there at all. You can barely get your fingers in a little to adjust it, but since each click up (clockwise) has a little more resistance I'm not sure you could get it much more than to a setting of 6 or 7.

Has anyone else used these or have any info? If I have something incorrect I'd rather find out now.

I'm going to do the other side tomorrow if I have any garage time, along with the rear Varishocks - which are a far easier proposition.

[ROBS6T8]

Wow... sounds like my installation was a heck of a lot easier! Actually I cut the lower control arm shock opening a bit bigger, bigger than I was expecting! I have not had time to play with the shocks though. I can tell you that I have room (slight room) to adjust the shocks with fingers. I'm going to buy an extra allen wrench and do some custom cutting/grinding to make it easier to get in there. I couldn't get an allen in there now!
Yes, the back will be a breeze!

[jocko124]

I installed mine while redoing the entire front end, so it was a breeze.

[Chad-1stGen]

I'm also curious how easy these are to adjust inside the coil spring. Anyone have these on a 1st gen Camaro? How is it to adjust the front?

[nicks67camaro]

I have them in a first gen with Hotchkis springs. I can get my finger in and adjust them not too hard just gotta get a good grip on it.

Back to the original post, are you trying to adjust them with the car on the ground? If so maybe you can take some of the load off the suspension just to give more room between the spring coils.

[Chad-1stGen]

I have them in a first gen with Hotchkis springs. I can get my finger in and adjust them not too hard just gotta get a good grip on it.

Thanks Nick is this something you can do at the track without lifting the car? Such as turning the wheel to expose the front or back of the suspension?

[wmhjr]

On mine, the car is on my 2 post lift, no weight on the suspension. Wheels have to be off. no way to get in there with the wheel on.

[wmhjr]

I installed mine while redoing the entire front end, so it was a breeze.

Curious about that Lee. I essentially disassembled the front end. Sway bar is removed. Took the hub/rotor/caliper off. So, there is really no difference than if I were doing it from scratch. In order for the ball joint to go into the spindle, the spring does need compressed a little. I had to lower the car on the lift with a jack stand under the LCA, while both keeping the coil aligned and pointed correctly - AND trying to get the shock upper shaft through the hole. The correct installation is for the ears to be mounted on the TOP of the LCA and not cut the LCA. Both Mark - and Alston Chassis Works confirmed this. I know there are some older instruction sheets out there that do it differently.

[jocko124]

Agreed--the ears mount on top of the LCA. I actually did this by myself, so I used some wire to hold the spring in place then I attached the upper shock mount (which is just a shaft that fits through the top and bolts on) and I left the shock hanging compressed while I attached the lower ball joint. I then attached the lower ears....well actually I couldn't attach them because at full droop they shocks are about 1.5" too short. But both Marcus & Alston say this is okay and to lower the car on the wheels/tires & attach the ears to the LCA. Apparently as long as your front end is not going airborne while driving this is not an issue!!

[wmhjr]

How did you attach the lower ears to the LCA after the coil spring was already in? I used 5/16-18 bolts with locknuts and washers to secure the lower ears to the LCA. You can't access the bolts inside the coil, so you have to bolt those ears to the LCA prior to putting the coil on - and then you need to rotate the LCA, coil and shock up. The coil has to both be centered in the pocket on top as well as indexed. The shock shaft doesn't align real good with the upper hole - you have to kind of deflect it a little to guide it in the hole. Even at full extension, the shock shaft doesn't start going through the hole until the coil is compressed a bit.

[jocko124]

I used the same hardware as you to attach the ears to the LCA. However, I attached the top of the shock and left it compressed. After attaching the lower ball joint, I put the bolts in the ears, extended the shocks and manuvered the bolts (while they were sitting in the ears) into the holes in the LCA. A little tricky, but not too bad. I actually used the adjustment knob to push the shock down--and I had the adjustment knob set to the lowest setting for ease of movement.

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks Nick is this something you can do at the track without lifting the car? Such as turning the wheel to expose the front or back of the suspension?

yes I have adjusted them with the car on the ground with the wheels at full lock to expose it easier. one thing I noticed is getting a firm click to know that you're at the right spot. I have had to back one all the way off and start over because the click didn't feel firm and I had questioned the setting.

[wmhjr]

I'm guessing you have very little backspacing? I'm running 5" so far in my application it doesn't seem likely that I'll be able to do that.

[wmhjr]

I used the same hardware as you to attach the ears to the LCA. However, I attached the top of the shock and left it compressed. After attaching the lower ball joint, I put the bolts in the ears, extended the shocks and manuvered the bolts (while they were sitting in the ears) into the holes in the LCA. A little tricky, but not too bad. I actually used the adjustment knob to push the shock down--and I had the adjustment knob set to the lowest setting for ease of movement.

Hmmm... Still confused. How did you hold the bolt from turning when you tightened the nuts on the bottom of the LCAs? That's the direction I would have gone but I couldn't figure any way to do that. The pretty fat coil springs really obstruct being able to get a wrench of fingers in there at all - plus the pockets on the bottom of the SPC tubular LCAs are pretty deep. I'm using Grade 8 bolts with locknuts.

[ROBS6T8]

I have them in a first gen with Hotchkis springs. I can get my finger in and adjust them not too hard just gotta get a good grip on it.

X2
Alston confirmed the trimming of the LCA with me. Nick, did you have to do some trimming? And not just for the adjustment knob!

[nicks67camaro]

yes I am running the factory lower control arms and had to clearance it a bunch. Getting the shock to have enough room I needed to open that hole up some. I actually ended up welding in reinforcement washers where the shock mounts to since it looked weak after opening the hole up. I also enlarged the hole and use a bolt and locking nut to keep the shock there instead of the factories welded nut set up. I had just enough room to get a small wrench in there and tighten everything up.

I think the after market lowers and the different coil spring manufacturer is why your having some trouble. I used to have a set of BMR lowers that I got rid of since they didn't work with what I wanted to run, the varishock shocks and hotchkis spring. It also had a pretty deep pocket where it can be had to access the adjustment knob.

Is the A-Body a much different spring set up? Can you run the shock on the top of the LCA and just get is high enough to get out of the interference with the spring? I haven't heard good or bad about running the shock on top.

[wmhjr]

I got mine in - no need to clearance for fitment - but one of the adjustment knobs on one side is REAL hard to access. I can get at it but would hate to be trying to get it on one of the "upper" settings.

On another note, I'm now installing the rear Varishocks. Another massive PITA trying to assemble the shock! Trying to get the cantilever bolt through the poly bushings inside the lower shock eyelet? My god. I could absolutely have designed a better solution. There ought to be at least some bevel to allow the cantilever bolt start through but instead it's the opposite - a very hard edge. I'm very impressed with the quality of the Varishocks but not so much either the documentation or some of the details.

[wmhjr]

Got it done. Took some pics which I'll post tomorrow. Had to sand the edges of the poly bushings on the lower mounts of the rear Varishocks. Glad that's over!

[jocko124]

Bill I sent you a PM but your box was full!

[wmhjr]

Sorry - I'll clean it out now. Didn't realize.