FRS6 - An Audi RS6 hidden under a 1950 F1 truck

[andrewb70]

Wow, that looks great!

Andrew

[Max Power]

Thanks, Andrew!

[Max Power]

I've been chipping away at the door locks and seat belts on the cab. I got half way through the passenger side seat belt and realised I had to do the door lock first otherwise I wouldn't have access. I have to install modern door locks for engineering. So why not use the Audi ones. Only problem is, they don't fit in the doors. So they had to go on the cab pillar. Which means the original door handles inside and outside wont work and I'll need to come up with something else. So it'll be a pull release inside and outside with outside being hidden under the cab corner.







A little bit of body work to complete on it later as I'll most likely paint the inside of the cab and possibly all of the door jams. Maybe. I'll work that out later. But I am pretty stoked to have worked this out, it's been on my mind how it was going to work for quite some time.

[JayinMI]

Could you (on the inside) maybe use a cable like they do in C6 Corvettes for the emergency release? I know they're pretty strict there, so I assume you'd need some form of mechanical release, vs just an electrical one? Great ingenuity.

[chunger]

Nice job integrating the modern door latches! What is that white box mounted inside the C pillar? Is that part of the latching system?

[Max Power]

Could you (on the inside) maybe use a cable like they do in C6 Corvettes for the emergency release? I know they're pretty strict there, so I assume you'd need some form of mechanical release, vs just an electrical one? Great ingenuity.

I'm not familiar with Corvettes, sorry. We don't have them here.

But both inside and outside cables open mechaicanlly. You may not be able to see but the actuator is not wired up to anything.

Thanks!

Nice job integrating the modern door latches! What is that white box mounted inside the C pillar? Is that part of the latching system?

The white section is just part of the lock acutator. Here you can see the complete assembly along with the cutout from the door body that I removed from the Audi door.

Thank you!

[JayinMI]

OK. I couldn't tell how you had it set up. Audi being Audi, I assumed it was electrically activated and more complicated than it needed to be. lol

Jay

[454bug]

Great fabrication skills! Project is coming along. That was an AMAZING amount of wire coming out of the factory looms! Looking forward to more updates!

[Max Power]

OK. I couldn't tell how you had it set up. Audi being Audi, I assumed it was electrically activated and more complicated than it needed to be. lol

Jay

Oh, I don't blame you. It's always safest to assume the worst and most overthought process with Audi/VW. ha!

Great fabrication skills! Project is coming along. That was an AMAZING amount of wire coming out of the factory looms! Looking forward to more updates!

Cheers, 454!

[Max Power]

I have the second door lock done and have also done the side retractable seat belts. I just haven't taken any photos as daylight savings is over now and my phone takes **** photos at night in the shed so I haven't bothered.
Some more seat belts arrived today so I can now mount the centre seat belts to the floor and that'll be another task done.

These arrived today too. Once I mount these up, I'll leave them out in the weather for a few days to get the surface rust to start. I'm pretty happy with these, I think they suit it well.

[jlcustomz]

Went back to post # 70 to see what the heck I'd sketched up , which was just to give inspiration as some sort of visual starting point with a work truck sort of utility bed.

Those fenders really fit the profile great & look bad ass, particularly from the back. Kind of a custom semi-truck sort of look. Love em.

[ekmxryda]

Fenders look good.
Look into hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt solution that you spray on to speed up rust.
Use some heat if you want it done quick.

[Max Power]

Went back to post # 70 to see what the heck I'd sketched up , which was just to give inspiration as some sort of visual starting point with a work truck sort of utility bed.

Those fenders really fit the profile great & look bad ass, particularly from the back. Kind of a custom semi-truck sort of look. Love em.

Thanks, JL. I had seen this quite some time ago, I can't remember but I may have posted it somewhere in here before too. My plan is a flat tray (bed for you US guys), with weathered timber and a rusty frame. I want to be able to fit two motorbikes on it. And then have these new rolled guards/fenders on the underside similar to this.

Fenders look good.
Look into hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt solution that you spray on to speed up rust.
Use some heat if you want it done quick.

Thanks for the tip! The last time I tried this I tried water and lemon juice and it had little effect. But I'll try this out next time.

[jlcustomz]

The flat tray bed definitely looks cooler than the utility type bed. Are you still considering any side stakes?
Another though I had here would be to engineer in a slide out ramp under bed. Your rear frame cross brace has a little notch in center already, maybe you could further notch & rebox it & the forwards cross braces to make room for an integrated slide out ramp. Would add a bit of practical coolness to it .

If you want fast new rust, battery acid, then neutralize later also works.

[Max Power]

No, I wont have any sides. I don't know about a head board either as I made a low one on a tray that I made in the past and it was useless with the bikes. So I think I'll have independent front wheel braces that can remove for the bikes. Along with tie points in the tray floor.

Unfortunately I need all that space under the tray and above the chassis rails as an air passage to feed the air through the radiator. I wish I could utilise it better as I need to find homes for a bunch of components but this will all have to be left free flowing.
I like the idea though and have tried to think of something but free space is at a minimum. And I'd like to keep the tray as low as possible to make it look lower to the ground and more convenient for loading bikes.

[jlcustomz]

Could be possible to build a section (or2) of the actual bed surface to slide back & down on rollers, separate from rest of bed surface. Pretty sure I saw something once where part of bed surface slid back , then down, with bike strapped to it with front wheel chocks. They had it cable activated, remote control electric.

[Max Power]

I actually had something similar to that with a tipper back that I had on a Falcon ute. We used to load my wife's horse carriage onto it with the back angled and used the winch to pull it up and lower it back down. Whilst it was very practical for that due to the carriage weight, I think it would over complicate it for the bikes. It only takes a few minutes to place an alloy ramp in place, push the bike up and strap it down. The bikes are only about 110kg so not much effort to move around.
I can't find a pic of the horse cart being loaded but this was the ute. It was so handy for when we were doing yard work around the house. I moved so much gravel and building materials with this. It was fantastic!

[jlcustomz]

What I was referring to was a section of the bed surface a foot wide that would have for example have rollers up front , with a slimline track in each side of the surrounding non movable bed. Then under the very rear area of the pullout ramp you could have slick plastic strips, such as umhv plastic.

In other words the section of bed would just pull back and then drop down as a self contained ramp.

Could have a section of pipe across the rear with I.D. slightly larger than rollers and a large slot cut in it for the slightly forward of ramp front bracket mounted rollers. This would allow ramp to slide left or right and NEVER be away from the truck. This way you will never be without a ramp. Having bikes, an el camino, and other work trucks and seeing people stuck on the side of the road with their bike, always having a ramp would be a super cool feature for a bike guy to have. Just a thought. I know it's a little hard to explain what's in my head, if the thought interests you any I could draw the design out.
Think about this. If someone with a dead bike on the side of the road had a truck pull up & slide an integrated ramp out & rescue them, they'd never forget that.

The ute with dump bed is super cool though not practical for bikes. A vehicle like that in the U.S. would get a ton of attention.

How's bed length looking for bikes fitting? If you're just a little short of length, I'd consider small pockets into the cab for front wheels IF you have any room for such a thing.
Also could it be possible for your rear air springs to be set up to drop rear?

[Max Power]

Yes, sorry, I understood what you meant. The problem I see is that one size doesn't fit all when it comes to bikes. I typically don't put the ramp in the centre, I'll put it off to the side for either angle loading the bike or swap to both sides with loading two bikes. And then sometimes you may even side load if you have a trailer hooked up as well. Which I will be putting a tow bar on this too.

Bed length is fine. I'll be about 2m long which is roughly the back of the cab to the tip of the exhausts. It's enough space to straight load two dirt bikes. But I'll probably make the front wheel supports angled to the bed so when straight loading, you'd point the front wheels out ways and into them.

And yes, the air suspension has 4 different ride heights so it'll definitely be able to lower to assist with loading. That's exactly what I do now with my VW Touareg. It makes it very easy for loading like this.

[Toccoa]

What if you added a detachable rack like syborg tt did on his Second Chance Camaro?
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...t-Begin/page20



You could mount it to sit over the rear wheel well. Then remove it when needed and nobody would know it existed.

Oh, awesome build btw!