69 Impala SS convertible

[dgrown]

Fixing the gas gauge led to a complete R&R of the entire instrument cluster. I decided to put in a tach where the clock blank off plate was. Very happy with the results. Also found NOS switches for the AC and generally repaired or replaced any electrical components. Hopefully I'll get another 45 years out of these controls.

The goal this year is a daily driver with no issues but with the dash out of the way I can move on to more interesting things like new control arms and brakes. Kore 3 is producing a small run of hubs so I'll be able to use their C6 kit on the front and SSBC for 12" rear discs while keeping a parking brake.

you ever look into the Dakota digital dash ? I was looking into these theres 2 different styles

[JustJohn]

you ever look into the Dakota digital dash ? I was looking into these theres 2 different styles

I did and I think the analog set is a great option. For this year, I wanted to get some basic upgrades like brakes and generally get a feel for the car while I drive it around for the summer. I'm keeping an eye out for a used rotisserie to pull the body next winter and work on the frame.

Just having the tach in where the clock blank off was makes the car more interesting to drive, plus I was able to do my first burn out in it yesterday.

[dgrown]

I talked to cpp for my brakes and used the 2" drop spindles as well if ya need any pictures or pointers that's the side ive done

[JustJohn]

I'm partway through getting the rear disc kit installed from SSBC and it's turning into a chore. The brackets were wrong and hand to be hand fitted. Now I'm here:

So my question is, since I really want this on the road for the summer, is what are my options to correct the caliper spacing? As of now, the rotor just touches the caliper when installed.

[Evanks]

Hey John,
I have enjoyed your documenting of your 69 build and am building a 1966 Impala convertible SS. I noticed you started with the same oil pan I have and changed to a, what appears to be a Milidon, likely due to centerlink interference. I am dealing with the same issue. What pan did you end up with on your build?

[JustJohn]

Hey John,
I have enjoyed your documenting of your 69 build and am building a 1966 Impala convertible SS. I noticed you started with the same oil pan I have and changed to a, what appears to be a Milidon, likely due to centerlink interference. I am dealing with the same issue. What pan did you end up with on your build?

Milodon 30970. Clears the steering, higher than the engine cradle, and holds more oil than the stock pan.

[andrewb70]

Love this built. I really want to do a 70 Impala...

Please post a lot of detail because we love it around here. I'd love to see more of the plastic repair.

Andrew

[JustJohn]

New parts! Trying to keep moving on the brakes so I can get it back on the ground.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Killer ride and garage!

[JustJohn]

More new parts. I hated the excess brake line and old rubber hose for the rear assembly so I got Cline Hose and Hydraulic in Greenville SC to fabricate a replacement.

I feel bad installing shiny new stuff on a rear diff that also needs to be pulled out and painted but it will keep driving through the summer.

[JustJohn]

Finally got some time to finish up the nasty part of this - bleeding brakes. I hadn't bent and flared my own brake lines in years and decided to try the NiCopp lines suggested by others on the forum. Easy and formed like butter plus nothing leaked. I could not have asked for it to go easier.
Did away entirely with the GM prop valve and distribution block. Here's where I ended up before bleeding the MC:


Rear calipers lined up and working properly:


I now have one of the few 69 Impalas with 4 wheel disc brakes. Still waiting on the Kore3 hubs for bigger front discs but it is already much improved.

Emergency brake linkage wasn't quite right - I opted to fabricate a new pivot member rather than order a custom length cable.

Now it goes back up on the stands for new control arms.

[JustJohn]

Progress continues:
Old control arms out.



Tubular arms are mostly in - I stopped at getting the last coil spring seated and constrained. Didn't want to leave that bomb sitting for longer than I had to. Surprised at the available adjustment I have in this suspension - it borrowed from both trucks and Corvettes of the era.

Also had a long list of parts to buy that I didn't consider. Shocks were blown, may as well do the tie rod ends to get a decent alignment, strut rod end bushings squashed, sway bar end links ... This simple front disc swap, which I still do not have hubs for, has magically transformed into a $2000 job with me doing the labor. Just to get it back to driver status for a few months.

One thing I did find while looking for parts is Global West's spherical rod end conversion kit for my existing strut rods. I like the concept but think that is something I can fabricate for myself rather than buy theirs. Maybe someone can chime in with an opinion on eliminating the bushing pivot in favor of a fixed pivot?

[IMPALAMAN1]

If you lower the rear of the car. Will that caliper hit the frame rail?

[JustJohn]

If you lower the rear of the car. Will that caliper hit the frame rail?

Nope.

No plans to drop more than 2" though.

[JustJohn]

Finally got away to work on this thing again. Had to wait a week on some bolts and then just couldn't figure out the brake bracket mounting.

Tobin was kind enough to re-forward the email he sent me with directions...

I fought and resisted changing the spindles from stock to get big brakes on this car and then gave in after I realized I did want to drop it some.

2" CPP drop spindles and Kore3's 13" C6 brake kit. Will hopefully get it bolted up this weekend and try it out.

[JustJohn]

Still working on brakes...

With the test fit over, I'm torquing and double checking fasteners. Brakes and all, I don't want to miss something in here. The Kore3 parts and instructions are up there with the best I've seen. No trouble so far.

Couple of things that came up: The steering arm and lower control arm had some slight interference. I had to massage both with an angle grinder to get them to play nice. Also, the Moog lower ball joints came with a front side bolt that is intended to function as a steering stop. I had to replace it as I actually lost turning radius by using it. Never would have noticed if I had let someone else install it.

[JustJohn]

Ok so the front brakes are done. They work and I took the car out for a drive. Now I'm here:

Ostensibly, this is to replace the rear main seal and clean up the engine bay but I found a few things.
For instance, why would someone feel the need to install a dozen or so engine to body ground wires?

The front end took a passenger side hit many years ago but it looks like the replaced the fender with another (the base coat was green) and the radiator support was unbent. It was ok but I happened to see an NOS radiator support on Ebay so I bought it. Wiring is still intact so I can clean up connections and get some headlight relays in. Passenger wheel well under the battery has the usual corrosion and I lost a through hole to rust. I will be able to try my hand at sheet metal repair. Failing that, I can still find a solid Arizona part.

More interesting, I think, is now I'll have an easy time laying out the suspension and moving it over to CAD. One of the goals on this car is some intermediate suspension refinement and having everything digitized will allow me to hand over the data to people more knowledgeable about it than me.

[JustJohn]

As a side note, I'm getting a cup holder!

Having a machinist and a CNC mill around is a perk. The interior is far from done but this will be a nice custom piece to have sitting in the original console.

[Don Zimmer]

This a sweet piece. I'm doing a 1970 Impala Custom Coupe Restomod. Auto to 5 Speed conversion. Tremec TKO 600. One thing I'll miss is cupholders!

[JustJohn]