HellBoy - No Limit C10

[RobNoLimit]

Will you be selling those rotor adapters?

Sure. They're pretty simple, the cut out is easy, the miling takes some time. Give me a shout if your interested. Are you coming out to any the So Cal Challenge events this yr?

[Bryce]

Sure. They're pretty simple, the cut out is easy, the miling takes some time. Give me a shout if your interested. Are you coming out to any the So Cal Challenge events this yr?

Rob, I like you approach. And on the next iteration on the falcon or my next car I will be doing something similar. I will keep this in mind! Thanks in advance.

I am doing an SCCA event this weekend in SD but will be missing RTTC. Its too expensive for me to make a commitment 3 months in advance, especially while I am still building my car. I plan on being at Goodguys this april.

[Cris@JCG]

Per conversation with Tina yesterday... You are supose to be working on her Mustang.. "NOT" the truck!!! LOL!!

[Rod]

per conversation with tina yesterday... You are supose to be working on her mustang.. "not" the truck!!! Lol!!

Busted!!

[LM7_67]

Now for the rest of the story......
I've heard all of the crying about - race car - purpose built - exotic - bla bla bla. Give it up. First of all, all hot rods are purpose built, for what ever purpose the builder/owner wanted. This Wide-5 stuff is cheap. Brand new, the hubs are $100 bucks, rotors are $40 bucks, and spindles are around $400. They are designed to use the big Superlight style caliper, appx $200 each, and there are a bunch of pad compounds available for these, all over the country. So, $1200.00 will get you spindles and brakes. Compare that to some of the aftermarket disk kits - without spindles. If you shop E-bay and swap meets you can get the whole deal for a few hundred bucks. Next is the weight. These spindles are hollow, fabricated units. I got mine from HOWE racing. They weigh in at 8 1/2 lbs. 2nd gen camaro spindle weighs 18 lbs. Load up a Wide-5 with hubs, standard 11.75" rotors and calipers and they tip the scales at 18 1/4 lbs. A loaded 2nd gen spindle with 11" brake and caliper is 39 lbs. Last thing is the bearings. Wide-5 hubs use BIG bearings, spread WAY apart. The spindle shaft is appx 2" dia., and the bearings are almost 4" apart, that makes the hub very stable. You can even get oil-filled hubs and low friction bearings. I heard it from a lot of people (even the manufacturer) that this would never work on the street, but so far, no problems. We pulled the hubs apart for the rotor swap, and everything looks fine. I'm going to clean and re-use the bearings and hardware to see how long it will last. Still think it's not streetable, ask Jimi Day, he drove it 80 miles in So Cal traffic.

What was their reasoning on why it wouldn't work on the street? The seals aren't good enough to prevent contamination? The bearings will wear on the spindle surface? Cracks in the spindle body? Just curious what the technical reason was. Just because it's never been done before doesn't mean it won't work.

[FirstGenZq8]

i'd love details/pics of your bed cover...

[AM PSYCHO]

was

[RobNoLimit]

I never got any good reasons why it wouldn't work. I heard comments like, "the hubs can't take the stress", "The brakes can't take it", ..... I just kept thinking, that there is no way I can load the spindle the way a dirt late model on a banked clay track can. And, there is no street as bumpy as Perris or Ventura speedways. I'll be the crash test dummy. - that's why I put the cage in it.

[RobNoLimit]

Per conversation with Tina yesterday... You are supose to be working on her Mustang.. "NOT" the truck!!! LOL!!

OK OK, I actually did work on the 'stang last night, for a little bit.

[RobNoLimit]

Some more progress. I'm starting to feel the pinch of RTTC. just a few weeks to go. And, I'm all fired up for the "Are you faster than a redneck" premier party. (shouldn't this be in an old barn somewhere? - we could go to my dad's place) We got the diff. back yesterday, and put the rear axle back in. The pict shows how it sits in with the fuel tank, it gets crowded back there.
Here's another tidbit. One of the guys here, Mike Sullivan, is finishing up his Le-Mans project. After severall hours of alignment work, steering arm work and bumpsteer checking, we came to the conclusion that the Idler arm - well, - it sucks. Yes, it was brand new. Stock A body part. The center to center length is not the same as the piman arm, so the arc is different, and that throws off the turn amount. We did a lot of work to fix the acremen so this last bit was a dissapointment for sure. Then we found the majic bullit. From Howe Racing comes this bad-ass adjustable, double roller bearing, super bitchin idler arm kit. Yep, it's a few extra bucks ($159) but in about 30 minutes we had the steering turn radius and bump dailed in. This would be well worth it for the A-body crowd. Have a great weekend.

[LM7_67]

I never got any good reasons why it wouldn't work. I heard comments like, "the hubs can't take the stress", "The brakes can't take it", ..... I just kept thinking, that there is no way I can load the spindle the way a dirt late model on a banked clay track can. And, there is no street as bumpy as Perris or Ventura speedways. I'll be the crash test dummy. - that's why I put the cage in it.

Yeah, that doesn't make any sense. The suspension loads in dirt circle track racing are ridiculous. Thanks for being the guinea pig!

[E.rodz]

nice job on the truck! just one quick question on the rear end how loud is it ? is the gear whine overpowering? really curious I would love to run one but I am afraid that it will be to annoying on the street.

[BulldawgMusclecars]

Loving the info here, Rob! BTW, it was great to finally meet you at the SEMA dinner.

[RobNoLimit]

nice job on the truck! just one quick question on the rear end how loud is it ? is the gear whine overpowering? really curious I would love to run one but I am afraid that it will be to annoying on the street.

Here's my 2 cents. - not really sure I have any 'cents' some times. When we first took it to Del-Mar, on 3 hours of sleep in a week, it was crazy loud. So loud that I was on the phone with Speedway Engineering that friday from the pits. "something is wrong" they say. Great. I turns out it was our fault, we had a bad set of gears in it. So we got some good straight cut gears. Thats better, but still kinda loud. So, we tried some angle cut gears. Thats much better, we'll go with those. Then in Des Moines, I was talkin to one of the racers saturday night. He told me that they treat thier gears with an oil retention coating, like is used on piston skirts, and that they run cooler and quieter. So, I sent out a set to be coated. Yes, thats the trick. I don't really get them that hot, but that makes them much quieter, so, i sent out my other gear sets. I carry sets for 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 3.90, 4.11, those can be flipped for 4.30, 4.68, 5.11, 5.88. Now it's hardly noticable. I wish someone would have told me in the beginning. - Just get angle cut, coated gears.

[RobNoLimit]

Loving the info here, Rob! BTW, it was great to finally meet you at the SEMA dinner.

I think getting to meet everyone is the best thing about that dinner. lol

[RobNoLimit]

A few set backs over the weekend. here's a little background. The motor is a mild 6.0, LQ9 base. My build plan was to put together an all around, pump gas bullet-proof package. Stock crank, Carillo rods ( I had them), CP pisons, LS2 clone cam, Had the heads CNC ported and assembled with Comp springs and rockers. Stock truck intake and throttle body. Hey, it made 416hp/412tq to the tire, not too shabby. But not up to the task on the big track, (600 is a small motor at optima), so I've been saving up parts.
Lesson #1. Buy a two piece timing cover for any LS build, so you can change the cam without pulling the balancer.
Lesson #2. Have a keyway cut into the crank so you don't have to torque the balancer to 240lbs - yes, the threads are tore up.
Lesson #3. OE type timing chains don't like 6000 rpm.
So, I have a new Comp cam, and an Edelbrock two piece front cover, While pulling the balancer bolt out, I got a small handfull of thread material with it. Swell. Now I have to find a 16mm x 2.0 bottoming tap to clean it out. Now I am learning that this is somewhat common. But, I did get the balancer off, then the front cover. Not good. The chain looks like it has 200k miles on it. Honestly, a good 3/4" side-to-side movement. Crap. So I order the new bitchin Z link chain, overnighted, (there goes $300 bucks, I hope someone will buy me a beer at the premier party, I may be broke). While removing the intake, I scooped up about a 1/2 cup of small rocks (the El-Toro sized ones) from the valley cover. Glad thats sealed off. So, I'm stalled for now, And I think I'm going to drill and pin the balancer. More news to come.

[coolwelder62]

Rob,I love the build.I've always love the C-10's ever since I had one in High school.

[RobNoLimit]

It's the two-step. But today it was two forward, and only one back. Got the crack threads repaired. Got the new timing chain. Swapping the cam was easy, but a bit stressfull. I was worried about a lifter falling down. One did, but Mike was able to slide a screwdriver in and push it back up. Everything fit back in just fine.

[RobNoLimit]

Just before lunch, a big box showed up. It's just like christmas. Things were going just great. Look how cool it is. Here, get it out of the box and lets set it on the motor......., no, ..... it hits the firewal. Well, thats the one step back. Luckily, I know just the guy for the job.

[67zo6Camaro]

Keep going, I just found this as I was lurking over hear at PT. I'm hooked on the story. Love the aluminum 18" wide 5 stuff. Wish I had some. lol