Trans Am SacrilEdge is free!

[Doug1]

I think I would try to hide that pump or maybe just some semi gloss black to make it go away from a distance..

I have done a number of these 2nd gen TAs and my "go to" spot for the fuel pump is in the between the tank and the rear end. These cars came with a cross flow muffler there so if you use regular mufflers there is a bunch of room to mount the pump and filters. If you want to keep it behind the tank, as most suggest, you have to drop the tank and try and wedge it up between the tank and tailight housing. Not really much room up there but it can be done.

There is a new sump from Aeromotive that includes the pump inside the sump. That is pretty cool. The latest build I am doing will get a custom tank with internal pump I am thinking. We'll see how much room is left after the back half.

[opnwide]

Doug,

I saw that new aeromotive sump. I think it comes with two walbo 255 pumps, so if I decide to go f.i. then I'll definitely check it out, and I'll probably just let Rick's Stainless Tanks handle it

[opnwide]

New development. In case any of you were wondering if my modified shaker would seal well enough to build boost.....well, yes. It does. But the shaker itself might be the weak link. I only saw about 5psi at the engine, not sure about the shaker.

KER-PLOOEY!



I guess its time for Plan "B".

[tazzz25906112]

Yep Carbon composite shaker ;-) ,,,,, and I just happen to know who can help you with that LOL...

[fbody_mike]

New development. In case any of you were wondering if my modified shaker would seal well enough to build boost.....well, yes. It does. But the shaker itself might be the weak link. I only saw about 5psi at the engine, not sure about the shaker.

KER-PLOOEY!


I guess its time for Plan "B".

How about laying a few sheets of glass and resin on the underside of another shaker, maybe double up more on the spots that broke on this one.

[srh3trinity]

Tig welded/fabricated sheet metal shaker like Jesse James did on the Coors Bandit TA he built. That was cool.

[cdoggy81]

Ouch... :(

[opnwide]

Albert,

Do you really think a carbon fiber shaker would hold? I plan on running at least 10psi through this thing, with the possibility of an occasional 15psi.

[tazzz25906112]

Albert,

Do you really think a carbon fiber shaker would hold? I plan on running at least 10psi through this thing, with the possibility of an occasional 15psi.

Greg if we did one for the app I'd likely look to do a custom composite schedule (I have the schedules expert in town and will ask him tomorrow night at dinner for his impute) with high temp epoxy resins used...... It's a relatively small part and I already have the mold for it so it shouldn't represent that tough a challenge or added expense in material all things considered.... As a matter of fact I kinda like the idea of the challenge and we can work something out between us as I think it'd be neat to be a part of the solution on this deal Poncho guy to Poncho guy....

[whayden2003]

might as well make 2 while you are at it

[tazzz25906112]

might as well make 2 while you are at it

I just saw your earlier post and apologize,,,,,, you can reach me at [email protected].
Thanks,
Albert

[andrewb70]

I am confused. Why is the shaker seeing boost? The outlets from the turbo enter the air cleaner pan, but isn't the pan sealed up? The shaker is normally an entry point for fresh air, so the hole should be sealed. I would use something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=170458457504

Then fabricate a mount for the shaker, since it will be purely cosmetic.

Andrew

[PhillipM]

i think i would try to hide that pump or maybe just some semi gloss black to make it go away from a distance..

x2!

[tcronkright]

Nice build. Love the twins!

[opnwide]

Andrew,

I embarked on this journey as a way of satisfying hood clearance and keeping a functional shaker.
I originally had the factory aircleaner welded up shut with an "air straightener" welded to the inside to help direct air vertically and to hold it down. The shaker itself was sealed off (like the factory did it) it the back and between the metal pan and fiberglass. It worked well. It gave the engine lots of plenum, and also gave good access to the carb. Unfortunately, 5psi blew the shaker apart like a funny car with the hiccups. 2-3psi, no problem. Then I hooked up my boost ref'd regulator and got into it a little more. My 12" MTs let loose instantly, but 1/2 second later... POW!

So I bought another shaker for $20, and fabbed a steel inner structure to fit inside the shaker to contain the boost. It looked good. Very stealthy. I tried it out today.
Same thing. Mickey Ts broke loose immediately, 5psi, and POP! This time the stainless steel shaker retaining ring let loose.

HMMM. So then I drilled seven holes peripherally in the air cleaner assembly and ran 1/4" bolts through it. This assembly is going to necessitate going with a dif method of supporting the shaker, but I've got an idea for that already. Also makes it harder to get to the carb for tuning. If the 1/4" bolts can't keep the assembly together, then maybe I'll check out that $500 hat you pointed me to.
I'll post results soon

[tazzz25906112]

Greg I figured that the bottom plate on the shaker would be the next blowout point....

You're on track and should be looking at how much heat is going to be developed and what joint/seem material to use... The rivets will let go or the plate will bleed off pressure and whistle like crazy if you don't blow the stock shaker I'd say with initial consideration....

At the very least all the holes you're talking about will weaken the stock shaker pretty badly and their construction/design didn't take flex into account as a base material,,,, that is by the way how many years old now....

[opnwide]

Albert,

I wasn't the bottom plate, but rather the connection. The bottom plate was removed and sealed to my new "steel inner shaker structure", so no whistling there. I coated the mating surfaces of the connection with a thin layer of RTV silicone, so it doesn't appear to be leaking. The problem was the thin stainless band that holds the two pieces together. The aircleaner has a 45 degree retention angle and the upper shaker base has a 90 degree retention angle. Yes, the 45 degree angle let go. I'll try to post pictures tonight if I get home before dark.

[andrewb70]

Andrew,

I embarked on this journey as a way of satisfying hood clearance and keeping a functional shaker.
I originally had the factory aircleaner welded up shut with an "air straightener" welded to the inside to help direct air vertically and to hold it down. The shaker itself was sealed off (like the factory did it) it the back and between the metal pan and fiberglass. It worked well. It gave the engine lots of plenum, and also gave good access to the carb. Unfortunately, 5psi blew the shaker apart like a funny car with the hiccups. 2-3psi, no problem. Then I hooked up my boost ref'd regulator and got into it a little more. My 12" MTs let loose instantly, but 1/2 second later... POW!

So I bought another shaker for $20, and fabbed a steel inner structure to fit inside the shaker to contain the boost. It looked good. Very stealthy. I tried it out today.
Same thing. Mickey Ts broke loose immediately, 5psi, and POP! This time the stainless steel shaker retaining ring let loose.

HMMM. So then I drilled seven holes peripherally in the air cleaner assembly and ran 1/4" bolts through it. This assembly is going to necessitate going with a dif method of supporting the shaker, but I've got an idea for that already. Also makes it harder to get to the carb for tuning. If the 1/4" bolts can't keep the assembly together, then maybe I'll check out that $500 hat you pointed me to.
I'll post results soon

I am not in love with that $500 dual inlet hat. It was just something I found to demonstrate the idea. I actually think even the welded stainless box may not be up to any kind of real boost pressure. The dual inlet box that is used on the Banks twin turbo system is heavy, cast aluminum.

I think maybe for a carburetor system you may be better off with something like this:

http://www.superiorairflow.com/

Then fabricate a pan around it to hold the shaker for cosmetic reasons.

Just my $.02....

Andrew

[tazzz25906112]

Andrew has a solid point about strength and if you fabricated a pan with the following features it could be something to consider.... I'm working on the presumption that you want to maintain a stock appearing cleaner assembly as best as possible and did a quick edit/design in Photo shop for you to convey the essence...



the pan and shaker could be molded or fabricated from steel (likely best option for one off) or molded and built from composites, however the constant would be the need for that "ring gasket" and multiple attachment points around the pan to insure the seal....

[opnwide]

Here is the photo of the inner structure I built. You can see the tops of several peripheral bolts to clamp it tight, along with four 10-24 screws that will support the shaker.

I've got about 2 3/4" clearance from the top of the carb to the hood. I need 1" for the shaker. That gives me about 1 3/4" for a carb hat. This is why I attempted to use the drop-base air cleaner shaker setup. I'll be testing tomorrow, taking video next time (just in case something exciting happens again).