Best One Man Bleeder System

[Mr Nick]

What's the 'best' way to bleed brakes by yourself? I'm sure there is some personal preference when it comes to what you like, just looking for suggestions. This will be for occasional garage use, not daily by any means.

Vacuum style:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7835/?rtype=1

Reverse bleed:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSL-2004/

Pressure bleed:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0260/

Thanks,
Nick

[parsonsj]

Motive Products pressure bleed. I can bleed all 4 corners in minutes.

jp

[gort69]

I've had excellent results with the Motive pressure bleeder. The only drawback is the funky chain and hook retention system for the GM adapter I need. I use a C-clamp and a block of wood to secure the adapter to the MC. Once you have it all set up you can bleed all 4 corners in about 15 minutes.

The one you linked looks like it has lots of adapters. You can get the basic bleeder + the adapter you need for about half that price.

I can't comment on the others - never tried 'em.

[Larry Callahan]

Believe it or not but I was shocked at how well this worked from Harbor freight. I used it for my brakes a few times and my clutch.

Toss the smaller bottle in the trash, hook up the large one to your bleeder screw and feed it 90psi or air.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

[andrewb70]

Clear water bottle and 2 feet of clear PVC hose. :-)

Andrew

[rickpaw]

Do you know if the Motive will work with Willwood m/c? I'm thinking of getting the Motive to bleed the brakes (brand new brake lines with no fluids).

[parsonsj]

Yes, the Motive product will work with Wilwood. The only thing I found is that you want to keep the pressure around 5 psi when using the plastic remote reservoirs, otherwise the pressure can push brake fluid past the O-ring.

jp

[MonzaRacer]

OK guys try:http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...=index&cPath=2
The V12 or V12 diy are inexpensive and reverse bleeding is only way to go. I have 3 different units with latest being the 3rd one down that I got for them using my likeness and email/comment in new manual.
The Phoeneix injector is awesome to the nth degree.
See air moves upwards, and if you system is in rest mode the fluid is made to return easily so it bleeds very fast. You just hook to bleeder, and pump till air quits coming up(I do this before hooking to master cylinders as I reverse bleed them off the car. then quick hook upand small pump before tightening the fittings and then let caliper gravity bleed. DONE.
I have been using this process for years, actual wore one unit out, still have second unit which is in need of new tubing and the newest has a small leak so they want it back for evaluation/warranty as I have used the new one for nearly a year and almost daily it seems or at least several times a week. I just wanted a seal kit but they want me to send it back as its newest version and they want to evaluate the issue(ie messedup when built or part failure so I see why).
But these things are awesome over pressure bleeding BUT with their adapter kit it can be used for pressure bleeding too!

[aronhk_md]

Believe it or not but I was shocked at how well this worked from Harbor freight. I used it for my brakes a few times and my clutch.

Toss the smaller bottle in the trash, hook up the large one to your bleeder screw and feed it 90psi or air.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

Larry,

So that system from Harbor Freight handles 90 psi ok? Also, since you are pushing fluid in the reverse direction, do you still need to bench bleed the master cylinder? Will I need to remove my speed bleeders to do this?

As for bench bleeding the master.........can ANYONE explain to me how you get the master cylinder in place, remove the nipples and get your brake lines in place without getting fluid everywhere?

So far I've used a vacuum system to pull fluid out of the bleeders, and now I have speed bleeders on each caliper, but I'm going to be emptying the whole system again shortly to make some changes and would like to find a better way.

[parsonsj]

can ANYONE explain to me how you get the master cylinder in place, remove the nipples and get your brake lines in place without getting fluid everywhere?

You can't. If you keep the reservoir cap on, you can reduce the amount of fluid that "escapes", and you might be able to put sheeting or towels down to keep it all off the car.

I bolt everything in dry, fill the reservoir, and pressure bleed with the Motive tool.

jp

[aronhk_md]

Hmmm...I'm sure it works. Kinda like the idea of going in reverse....seems if you fill from down low the bubbles will be easier to flush. I'm guessing though I'd have to remove my speed bleeders to use a system like the one Larry has. Not to mention its a lot cheaper and doesnt require different adapters for different cars.

[Fuelie Nova]

I bolt everything in dry, fill the reservoir, and pressure bleed with the Motive tool.

Just making sure I understand you... no bench bleeding? That would be nice, think I will purchase the motive just for that reason.
Tom

[parsonsj]

Just making sure I understand you... no bench bleeding?

Nope. Take the masters out of the box, and bolt them to the car. It's a nice bleeding system. I used it on II Much a bunch of times, and now on my Z06. It takes longer to get the car in the air and the tires off than it does to bleed to the brakes.

jp

[rickpaw]

I bolt everything in dry, fill the reservoir, and pressure bleed with the Motive tool.

jp

John,
So you did not bench bleed the m/c then?

[parsonsj]

Tu, see post #13.

[Mr Nick]

Is it ok to reverse bleed a car with ABS? I thought you were not supposed to push old fluid back up into the ABS controller?

[rickpaw]

Tu, see post #13.

Duh, thank you. For some reasons my PC did not show all of the posts.

[silver69camaro]

I think opinions for bleeding are like bellybuttons, everybody has their own. I've used all methods, and the one that works the best for me is a simple one way check valve in a length of clear hose. Just stick one end in a jar, open the bleeder, and squeeze the pedal. It's clean and slow, which is actually a good thing IMO, because then I can see the bubbles come out (some are very small!).



I like pressure bleeding too but it was a hassle for me to connect the adapters and such. That and I didn't want to spend the money on a bladder type bleeder, which is the ideal type to use.

Keep a rubber mallet handy to smack the MC or caliper, it wil dislodge some air bubbles that get caught in tight places.

[John Wright]

I think opinions for bleeding are like bellybuttons, everybody has their own. I've used all methods, and the one that works the best for me is a simple one way check valve in a length of clear hose. Just stick one end in a jar, open the bleeder, and squeeze the pedal. It's clean and slow, which is actually a good thing IMO, because then I can see the bubbles come out (some are very small!).

+1....I use this in combination with Russle's Speed bleeders and that worked great for me.

[parsonsj]

The Motive product is designed to allow you to fill up a huge reservoir of fresh brake fluid, and then feed that into the master cylinder reservoir, so you can go around and bleed all four wheels without worrying about the master cylinder reservoir going empty and forcing air into the system. It is ideal for race cars that need to change all their brake fluid before or after a race.

I don't do that. I use the Motive pressure bleeder along with a full m/c reservoir and then bleed one wheel at a time, refilling the master reservoir between each wheel. It's a little slower, but wastes less fluid, and is easier to clean up.

Keep a rubber mallet handy to smack the MC or caliper, it wil dislodge some air bubbles that get caught in tight places.

Good idea! I find after a full fluid replacement, it's a good idea to do a quick "check" bleed after a shake down run, and sometimes I find an air bubble or two. I'll whack my calipers next time and see if that makes a difference.

jp