Chevy Engine Build

[-The Stig-]

I've pieced together a Chevy 355ci engine in my mind, and online... surprisingly they're not the same... online is much more expensive.

So, here's a list of parts we've compiled... I need somebody to tell me what's wrong with it? Or, what is right? Compatibility issues? Feed back is appreciated.

AFR 210cc Eliminator Racing Heads
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=AFR-1059

Brodix Single Plane Manifold
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=BRO-HV1000

Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CCA-CL08-423-8

Comp Cams Timing Belt drive
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=CCA-6100



SCAT forged 4340 steel rotating bits.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SCA-1-40310-1

Ram Billet steel 17lb flywheel.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=RAM-1510

Zoom High performance Clutch.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=ZZZ-30014

Hedman Husler 1 3/4" headers
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=HED-65104

Holley 650cfm 4bbl Carb.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=HLY-0-4777C


Using these parts, I'm hoping for 500+ Horsepower/450+ Torque, safely spin 7500rpm with proper block prep and balancing of course. Target compression ratio is roughly 11:1.


Thoughts?

[Fast01]

I've pieced together a Chevy 355ci engine in my mind, and online... surprisingly they're not the same... online is much more expensive.

So, here's a list of parts we've compiled... I need somebody to tell me what's wrong with it? Or, what is right? Compatibility issues? Feed back is appreciated.

AFR 210cc Eliminator Racing Heads
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=AFR-1059

Brodix Single Plane Manifold
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=BRO-HV1000

Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CCA-CL08-423-8

Comp Cams Timing Belt drive
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=CCA-6100

SCAT forged 4340 steel rotating bits.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SCA-1-40310-1

Ram Billet steel 17lb flywheel.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=RAM-1510

Zoom High performance Clutch.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=ZZZ-30014

Hedman Husler 1 3/4" headers
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=HED-65104

Holley 650cfm 4bbl Carb.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=HLY-0-4777C


Using these parts, I'm hoping for 500+ Horsepower/450+ Torque, safely spin 7500rpm with proper block prep and balancing of course. Target compression ratio is roughly 11:1.


Thoughts?

Seems like what you've got listed should get you there (at the flywheel), but there is a few things that I would change. For starters, with the pistons you've got in that kit, assuming .000 deck with an .039" head gasket, your compression will be about 12.7:1 and with the slugs .020" in the hole 11.9:1. A little bit off your target. I personally wouldn't use the AFR 210's, the 195's will be fine on a 355 and I'd step up to a 750 carb, although the 650 should be fine. Also, the belt drive is overkill unless you plan on playing with cam timing a lot and if you drive on the street, the belt is exposed to flying debris. Not worth the expense in my opinion. Even if you want to play with cam timing I'd go with a Cloyes Hex-a-just with a 2 piece timing cover. Other than that, it sounds like a pretty good combo. Good luck!

As an afterthought, I think you could probably get away with a good dual plane manifold (RPM Air Gap or Brodix HV1016). If you plan on street driving, you're giving up a ton of torque dowstairs with the single plane.

[CarlC]

You won't be able to spin that valvetrain to 7500RPM. Usable power production will be done at 5700-5800RPM, and aftermarket hydraulic roller lifters won't rev past 6000RPM reliably.

If it were me.....

AFR 195 Eliminators. Plenty of head for a 350 and a much better runner size.

Dual-plane Edelbrock Air-Gap manifold. I played around with a single-plane for a while and did not like the results. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ech/index.html

Same cam.

Good double-roller timing chain (Dynagear.) Nobody can see the timing setup, and the belt system is not cheap.

SCAT cast crankshaft and standard rods. Good for 550hp/6500RPM. I beat mine on the road coarse for a long time with zero parts-related problems. I did have to re-grind the crankshaft due to oil starvation problems.

Overall this will be a much more all-around enjoyable engine to drive on the street and road coarse, and help keep a few bucks in your pocket, if the budget is a factor.

[Lowend]

I'm not trying to sound condescending, but this is pretty far off. A 7500RPM 500+HP 350 is a pretty hi-strung. Before we get too far into it; you may want to consider another path

That said
The bottom end is not optimum, but not bad. I would tend more towards a Crower rotating assy for a 7500RPM Engine. Less weight is really critical at those RPM's.

Not enough carb, nowhere near enough cam.
You should be looking more at a 850CFM carb and a solid roller cam in the 260@050 range I would probably point you towards the Isky 201602
A hyd roller really isn't good past 6200RPM or so
If you ask me a timing belt really isn't a great investment. I've never seen a name brand double roller timing chain break when something else didn't go first

The clutch probably isn't up to the task. You are going to want something in a Metallic/Kevlar blend
Get an SFI rated Aluminum flywheel with this one.

There's more to think about; but as you are probably thinking by now... this won't be a great street engine. We should probably talk a little more about goals and combo.

[slowcamaro]

What he said. I'm running into an issue with my 400...It likes to breath up top but my lifters are only good to ~6200. If you want to spin go solid lifter now.

I'm contemplating swapping to a dual plane from my victor jr to get a little more bottom end.

[MarkM66]

If you're going to get an aftermarket crank, I see no reason not to get a 3.75" stroke.

Unless you're going to be running in a class with cid limits.l

[Fast01]

If you're going to get an aftermarket crank, I see no reason not to get a 3.75" stroke.

Unless you're going to be running in a class with cid limits.l

Agreed! Although, if you're truly looking to spin 7500 RPM (which we've established you won't with your current parts selection) piston speed will be too high.

[CarlC]

Here's another previous engine that was in the car. It ran very well until it ate a carburettor washer.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/cl...tor/index.html

[MonzaRacer]

Another thing the 210 heads, pass, look into the 195s and 200s, more than enough for your fun. Here is good cam I use with those heads http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=163&sb=1.
also I dont recommend the belt drive like has been said, good regualr timing chain, get one with multiple keyways, used to sell the crap out of the ones at AutoZone, and a dollar less than regular setup.
Also agree with intake and would run 750-850 cfm, give shaker455 a shout hecan hook you up with good carb.
Do not use the lightweight flywheel on street, have three that are warped bad. use a stock weight sfi approved flywheel, and if my nephew can trash one look at the Centerforce dual friction. My nephew could break an titanium anvil with a feather and dust bunnies.
Instead of messing with that belt setup buy some of thier stainless roller rockers, we just pulled engine down from older father/son cars son had stainless comp rockers, dad had aluminum, both cars run drag and street and had comparable miles and the rollers got checked, after175k of hard miles the aluminums are done, the stainless got new bearings and roller tips and ready to run again.