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Thread: 700r4 question?
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08-05-2005 #8
Full Blown G-Machiner
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
- Posts
- 515
Their will be some misc O rings, seals, and other do dads that you wont use so if youre asking whether or not youll have a completely empty Transtar box when your done then the answer is no.
Originally Posted by jaz
Seem to be so far as I havent had any failures (yet).are the sprags they include good quality?
This one I cant really help you with since I dont do shift kits and tailor my trans's to the customer using the shimming/flipping/blocking of accumes as well as line pressures and servo sizes. Sorry, Im kinda worthless on shift kit recomemdations other than all the builders Ive talked to hate the el cheapo B&M stuff.which shift kit do you recomend transtar race or no yoyo?The bigger boost valve I talked about earlier wouldnt hurt you any even if its only the .470" (<biggest GM makes but aftermarket goes to ~.525") and the big OD servo if you plan on towing in OD. Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head since about everything else you can make yourself.i know the transtar kit does not come with the unbreakable rings, so what other parts would i need to buy individually besides the pump rings and shift kit?
However, there are TONS of other stuff but then you start getting into GM 5 gear planets, molded lip seals on pistons and the like which gets expensive really quick in a relatively low hp/low line pressure application like youre working on now. You could buy all that stuff but it'd be just an enormous amount of over kill and lots of money spent.
As long as the pocket is in good shape then all you need to do is put the new seals in it. Only put new vanes in if you mic yours and theyre out of spec per the ATSG manual. Watch out for the slide return spring since its a PIA to get back in there.i already have a 10 vane pump. it looks great but should i put new vanes or any other new parts in it?
Check the fluid return hole in behind the front pump bushing where the TC rides per the ATSG manual if its too small then drill it. Ive never seen a later model unit blow the front seal out due to this but the old mid 80s would for some reason. I drill em all if they are too small just to be safe and havent had an issue yet.should i do any drilling for the front seal or any other mods to the pump?
BTW, I cant remember if the ATSG manual mentions it but with the later model pumps (~86-up) there is a "lip" cast into the front pump cover that indexes the front pump to TC bushing. If yours has this lip, and its hard to see, do NOT drive the bushing out from the back side/pocket side. If you do the pump is scrap so to be safe when you drive the bushing out lay the front half of the pump on the work bench pocket side down and drive the bushing out from the front. That make sense?
Those parts should provide you with the capability to do so.i have a 93 vette servo assembly and was considering buying the billet 3-4 servo since i would like to tow in od.
I dont think it would hurt you if you want to spend the money but IMO I think itd be over kill for your application. Save your money and put the biggest/most honkin trans cooler in front of the radiator you can find and youll be good to go IMO.the guru at raybestos wants me to use the "z-pack".
HTH
GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
#614 11.9 @ 113
New stuff finished 08/06:
4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
Empire drive line alum drive shaft
Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
Syclone
Tow rig
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