weird starter issue

[69camarokid]

my starter went from laways working immediatly to taking nearly 10 to 12 clicks to engage and start the car. This happened progressively over 6 months.

I pulled apart the starter and cleaned it. it didnt help. I bought and installed a new solenoid, it didnt help.

So i bought a brand new starter and installed it.... adni still have the same issue.

Any ideas? could it need shims or something... it doesnt screech or anything. hat else could cause a starter issue?

[6'9"Witha69]

Do you hear a clank? Like the pinion hitting the fleywheel? Or is it a dead feeling for a few clicks and then something happens? Could be a worn out contact in the lock cylinder, seen that before.

[Nessumsar]

I would check the lock cylinder, ignition switch, and ground on the starter/engine.

[69camarokid]

i can hear a solid click or clunking sound coming from the starter everytime i turn the key. Im pretty sure what i hear is the solenoid.

But for some reasons it ususally needs alot of attempts before it actually turns on the car. Sometimes it does it on the second or third try, sometimes the 10th.

This is really annoying me.
But i dont think its the lock cylinder or ignition switch as iver changed those out before and that issue sounded and acted different than this.

[Type73LT]

Does this happen when the engine is hot and you are trying to restart it or from a cold start?

Hot start your solenoid is over hot. You need a shield or remote solenoid to get the heat away.

Cold it may just be your battery, check the connections, grounds and have the battery tested. It may be old and losing some power.

[69camarokid]

This happens everytime, whether the car is hot or cold.

Also, im confused as to how the battery could be the issue. How could it not draw enough power for the first few clicks then suddenly have enough later to start the car.

Battery tested, 12.4 Volts

[69camarokid]

Its not even cranking when this happens. THE ONLY SOUND I HEAR IS THE SOLENOID CLICK.

[Nessumsar]

it has to be a wiring problem. Check both of your cable ends, and maybe ground the engine to the frame. It's not getting enough juice to work properly.

[taz]

Have you done a voltage drop test on battery ground cable and cable to starter . Is battery mounted in stock location or relocated .If trunk mounted you need several grounds . Try using a remote starter button and see if symptom is still present . If memory serves me correctly there is a fuseable link at starter may have high resistance causing issue . An ignition switch would not cause it to partially engage . Its either a ground positive battery cable or fuseable link or poor connection at starter . Also check how many amps starter is drawing if all else tests ok .
Tim

[justasquid]

Here is a link to some pretty good advice on starters. There is a section about a no crank situation with a few helpful tips and tests you can do. this page helped solved an issue I had with my wifes car, so I thought it may help you too.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm

[69camarokid]

got under the car. ive got a solid 12.4 volts at the starter so im not loosing power from the battery to starter.... But on the times it doesnt want to start i hear a solid clunk sound. Im not sure if thats the solenoid or what.

im gonna take a video and post it up

[taz]

While some one else is turning ignition and see if it catches you said you bought a new starter but was it a cheap parts store rebuilt . Your schucks kragen type . They call it schucks auto parts because awe schucks i have to take this lifetime warranty garbage back for another once a year .
Tim

[69camarokid]

While some one else is turning ignition and see if it catches you said you bought a new starter but was it a cheap parts store rebuilt . Your schucks kragen type . They call it schucks auto parts because awe schucks i have to take this lifetime warranty garbage back for another once a year .
Tim

no its an all new starter. Not rebuilt or remanufactured.
PLus i had this issue with both the old starter adnd this new one.... so im thinking its something besides just the starter

[69camarokid]

just to double check i pulled the starter and bench tested it. i used jumper cables to attach the starter directly to the battery and it immediatly spin, so i know my starter is good.

This leads me to believe that more than likely my issue is the ignition switch or lock cylinder

someone had mentioned earlier about the pinion hitting the flywheel and making a clunk sound. I do get a loud clunk sound everytime it doesnt start. Is this in refernence to it needing a shim, like the starter motor sticks out to far and hits the flywheel instead of catching and turning it?

thanks

[69camarokid]

ok, so i tried a test i found online for my ignition switch. it stated that you turn on your lights and then attempt to start the car. If the lights dim then your ignition switch is good. If they lights do not dim, it is bad.
My lights dimmed....

Im getting a bit stumped... and annoyed. Im going to try throwing some shims in it tomorrow, but i dont see it making a difference.

any other ideas guys?

[taz]

Have you installed a remote starter switch or just take a old screw driver and jump the solenoid to post on starter . Basiclly bypass ignition switch . Didnt you say starter works sometimes and no unusual noises though .
Tim

[taz]

Is that a rattle noise from starter i hear when its running . The nose cone on lt1 starter like to break off over time have seen a few its a remote possibility but can you see any debris in bellhousing .

[taz]

take some grease dab it on the flywheel and look to see if and where its making contact . I could definately hear a rattle noise while it was running listened to your vid a couple of times sounds like something is making contact . You can shim it to move it down for proper mesh with flywheel .

[taz]

I have shopkey at home

[taz]

Hope some of this helps