weird starter issue

[69camarokid]

my starter went from laways working immediatly to taking nearly 10 to 12 clicks to engage and start the car. This happened progressively over 6 months.

I pulled apart the starter and cleaned it. it didnt help. I bought and installed a new solenoid, it didnt help.

So i bought a brand new starter and installed it.... adni still have the same issue.

Any ideas? could it need shims or something... it doesnt screech or anything. hat else could cause a starter issue?

[6'9"Witha69]

Do you hear a clank? Like the pinion hitting the fleywheel? Or is it a dead feeling for a few clicks and then something happens? Could be a worn out contact in the lock cylinder, seen that before.

[Nessumsar]

I would check the lock cylinder, ignition switch, and ground on the starter/engine.

[69camarokid]

i can hear a solid click or clunking sound coming from the starter everytime i turn the key. Im pretty sure what i hear is the solenoid.

But for some reasons it ususally needs alot of attempts before it actually turns on the car. Sometimes it does it on the second or third try, sometimes the 10th.

This is really annoying me.
But i dont think its the lock cylinder or ignition switch as iver changed those out before and that issue sounded and acted different than this.

[Type73LT]

Does this happen when the engine is hot and you are trying to restart it or from a cold start?

Hot start your solenoid is over hot. You need a shield or remote solenoid to get the heat away.

Cold it may just be your battery, check the connections, grounds and have the battery tested. It may be old and losing some power.

[69camarokid]

This happens everytime, whether the car is hot or cold.

Also, im confused as to how the battery could be the issue. How could it not draw enough power for the first few clicks then suddenly have enough later to start the car.

Battery tested, 12.4 Volts

[69camarokid]

Its not even cranking when this happens. THE ONLY SOUND I HEAR IS THE SOLENOID CLICK.

[Nessumsar]

it has to be a wiring problem. Check both of your cable ends, and maybe ground the engine to the frame. It's not getting enough juice to work properly.

[taz]

Have you done a voltage drop test on battery ground cable and cable to starter . Is battery mounted in stock location or relocated .If trunk mounted you need several grounds . Try using a remote starter button and see if symptom is still present . If memory serves me correctly there is a fuseable link at starter may have high resistance causing issue . An ignition switch would not cause it to partially engage . Its either a ground positive battery cable or fuseable link or poor connection at starter . Also check how many amps starter is drawing if all else tests ok .
Tim

[justasquid]

Here is a link to some pretty good advice on starters. There is a section about a no crank situation with a few helpful tips and tests you can do. this page helped solved an issue I had with my wifes car, so I thought it may help you too.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm

[69camarokid]

got under the car. ive got a solid 12.4 volts at the starter so im not loosing power from the battery to starter.... But on the times it doesnt want to start i hear a solid clunk sound. Im not sure if thats the solenoid or what.

im gonna take a video and post it up

[taz]

While some one else is turning ignition and see if it catches you said you bought a new starter but was it a cheap parts store rebuilt . Your schucks kragen type . They call it schucks auto parts because awe schucks i have to take this lifetime warranty garbage back for another once a year .
Tim

[Nessumsar]

If the starter was hitting the fly wheel and not engaging the teeth, you would be able to hear the starter motor wind down since the engine isn't running. Like: turn key, clunk, release key, wind down.

Im thinking you are hearing the solenoid clunking and and and then not having enough juice to spin the motor.

Im still thinking it is a wiring problem. Have you checked the end of your cables? Both positive and negative? Where do you have your negative ground cable attached to? On my Nova, I run a ground cable from one of the starter mounting bolts, to the engine, and from that same point to the battery. That way the starter is grounded to the engine, and the engine to the battery.

I also have had a terminal on my battery break. Happened on my Ranger, the actual terminal broke down inside the battery, sometimes it would make contact and sometime it wouldn't; took forever to figure that one out...

If all else fails, you could take the sheild off, and have some watch the starter when you key it on.

[taz]

And do a votage drop test on positive battery cable and negative cable . Then on wire from ignition switch to solenoid and then make sure everything is gounded properly . There is a acronym to keep you from overthinking things . K.I.S.S. Keep. it. simple. stupid .I use this acronym when i start overthinking things and go back to the basics.
Tim

[Type73LT]

How is the problem going?? You do have a heavy gauge ground wire from the engine to the frame and/or battery right. I agree with above me to have both.

[69camarokid]

i started school this last week and thus have been super busy and unable to check any of the wiring...

ill be checking it out this weekend and do a voltage and amperage drop test adn ill check corrosion on all the wires as well as check my grounds