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    Results 121 to 140 of 299
    1. #121
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Amsterdam,The Netherlands
      Posts
      880
      Country Flag: Netherlands
      Subscribed! That's a sick car! Love the engine!



      Cliff
      1968 Firebird
      Project Cheyenne Pro Performance


    2. #122
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      110
      Thanks for the comments on the engine. It is turning out to be a unique piece.

      Does anyone have experience with anodizing vs. powder coating?

      I want a clean finish, but would like to keep the milling texture exposed through the finish. I am thinking of anodizing the valve covers and very top of the intake black and clearing the remaining parts. I want something that can be wiped clean while maintaining a nice finish. Not sure which way to go.

    3. #123
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Powder coating will definitely cover the milling texture. Type I anodizing is quite thin (~0.1 mil) and will mostly likely leave a bit of the milling texture depending on what the surface finish is.

      You can also have parts clear anodized to make them easier to clean and will also keep aluminum from corroding.

      Example:

      Nick DiPrenda

    4. #124
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Delaware
      Posts
      689
      I agree with Nick....powder coating is actually very thick. Anodizing is what you want there. Just remember, anodizing doesnt really add anything protective to the surface as far as scratching goes......think of the red and blue AN fittings and what happens when you use a wrench on them if you arent careful. But, powder coating also scratches, and actually a lot of powder coating leaves fingerprint smudges easily....especially glossy ones....and they are hard to get rid of. I really like powder coating steel and iron. Aluminum is a tossup.
      1973 Trans Am 455 SR block, ported 6x-8 heads, solid cam, Victor intake, 830 CSU carb, aluminum rods, 77mm Garrett turbo and methanol injection. 1064hp at the flywheel@5500 rpm

    5. #125
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      You have far fewer choices with color, but if wear resistance is key, Type III anodizing, or hardcoat, offers fantastic wear resistance.
      Nick DiPrenda

    6. #126
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Newport, Ky
      Posts
      15
      Mad fabricating skills to say the least. One wild build. I love it!
      Scroungers CC

    7. #127
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      yucaipa, ca.
      Posts
      107
      I all of the sudden want to build a firebird !!!! That thing is NICE!!!!!
      Marc Albright
      66 Nova Chevy II
      DSE chassis
      Engine Builder undecided... Any offers?
      Just starting build April 2010

      Follow my build at:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...quot-1966-Nova

    8. #128
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Greenwood Lake, NY
      Posts
      105
      I agree with the hard anodizing... tough finish (actually increases the surface hardness of the AL), and it looks tough - dark, but still shows the grain in the metal.
      Jeff.

      1972 GTO - long term project
      1968 Firebird - all original, low mileage

    9. #129
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrotech View Post
      I agree with the hard anodizing... tough finish (actually increases the surface hardness of the AL), and it looks tough - dark, but still shows the grain in the metal.
      Yup, for those that know a bit about hardness measurements... Type III anodizing results in a surface hardness of Rockwell C 60-70.
      Nick DiPrenda

    10. #130
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      I like the concept and design, very well throught out. I think it all goes together nicely, without going too far from the original.

      Can't wait to see it finished

    11. #131
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      110
      Everytime I post a question to the group, I realize how little I know about the details. Great feedback again on the Type III anodizing.

      Has anyone had experiece with the anodizing "spotting" or "discoloring" over time? I have heard that it looks great for the first year, but can react with the air and aluminum over time and actually milk or spot - something powder coating does not do.

    12. #132
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tcronkright View Post
      Everytime I post a question to the group, I realize how little I know about the details. Great feedback again on the Type III anodizing.

      Has anyone had experiece with the anodizing "spotting" or "discoloring" over time? I have heard that it looks great for the first year, but can react with the air and aluminum over time and actually milk or spot - something powder coating does not do.

      Pretty certain that spotting results from poor material prep prior to anodizing. Impurities in the aluminum will leach out over time and cause this issue.

      As far as reacting with the air... That is exactly what anodizing is supposed to prevent. Raw aluminum will oxidize over time and on the surface will grow a layer of Al2O3, or aluminum oxide. Anodizing, in a manner of speaking, seals the surface and should prevent the aluminum from reacting with the air.
      Nick DiPrenda

    13. #133
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Anodizing:
      Be aware if the aluminum to be anodized is a welded part, make sure to use a filler material that will color match the parent material. Otherwise the results may not be what you are expecting.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    14. #134
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      San Gabriel Valley CA
      Posts
      148
      Country Flag: United States



      This build just gets better and better. That motor is intoxicating and the roof is simply awesome.
      Mike Lara

    15. #135
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Fresno, Ca
      Posts
      379
      Is it done yet?? Is it done yet??

    16. #136
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      110
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      Anodizing:
      Be aware if the aluminum to be anodized is a welded part, make sure to use a filler material that will color match the parent material. Otherwise the results may not be what you are expecting.
      Is the same true for powder coating? What filler material should they normally use? I need to "big brother" this step based on what you are saying. Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

    17. #137
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tcronkright View Post
      Is the same true for powder coating? What filler material should they normally use? I need to "big brother" this step based on what you are saying. Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.
      Not true for powdercoating. Powdercoating is much like paint in its finish. The particles (or powder more specifically) has a positive charge and the parts will be grounded. The powder is then baked on. The material below has no effect.

      Since anodizing is an electrolytic process, and you are chemically adhering the dye to the part, the substrate may have an effect on the surface finish depending on conducivity, porosity...
      Nick DiPrenda

    18. #138
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Base material 6061?

      In Volume 4, Seventh Edition of The Welding Handbook, in Table 8.9, for a 6061 base metal, the recommended filler metal for color match after anodizing is 5654.
      I also have a probably outdated (1986) ANSI/AWS D10.7, which is the Recommended Practices for Gas Shielded Arc Welding of Aluminum and Aluminum Alloy Pipe. In Table 1, for a 6061 base metal, the recommended filler is ER5654, but the footnote indicates that ER5183, ER5356, and ER5556 may be used, and in some cases they provide improved color match after an anodizing treatment.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    19. #139
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      110
      The body modifications are officially done! We finished grinding the rear diffuser and cut the holes and fit the 4" running lights and welded in the trim barrels. We also cut and finished the vents in the lower valance which will help keep the intercoolers cool.

      Next week we will seal the metal and start on the finish body work. We are going to put the engine in and mock up the turbo plumbing next week as well.

      As for the valve covers and intake, I have decided to keep it natural for now. The black hardware ties the engine together nicely. After SEMA, maybe I will look to anodize a few parts, but it is just too nice looking to mess with right now.

      Here are some pics of the front valance with the running lights installed.










    20. #140
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      782
      Country Flag: United States
      great project!
      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro

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