Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 13 of 13

    Hybrid View

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      state of confusion
      Posts
      1,499
      Country Flag: United States
      The longer LCA is definitely the better way to go here, unless you were going to modify the length of the centerlink (not recommended).

      Are you considering tall ball joints or other means of extending the vertical separation between the upper and lower ball joints?

      Lengthening the LCA and leaving the UCA alone will tend to increase the rate of camber gain, while moving the UCA chassis-side pivots purely outward (no vertical component of relocation) should raise the front roll center minutely. Either change will affect bumpsteer a little.


      Norm

      '08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (the occasional track toy)
      '19 WRX, Turbo-H4/6M (the family sedan . . . seriously)
      Gone but not forgotten dep't:
      '01 Maxima 20AE 5M, '10 LGT 6M, '95 626, V6/5M; '79 Malibu, V8/4M-5M; '87 Maxima, V6/5M; '72 Pinto, I4/4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Thanks, I'm looking into a couple of those items still. For vertical separation, I'm looking at 4x4 Blazer spindles (using 2wd hubs) which will function as a bit of a drop spindle, and I believe they are also taller than the G or S-10 spindle.

      If I move the UCA outboard, and increase the LBJ to UBJ height difference, I will also increase the UCA pivot height with my new mounts, since I don't want much negative camber gain. I still need to pull the springs and mock the ride height with the wheels I want to run, in order to try spindle options and level the LCA's at my intended ride height. Once I get that sorted I'll extend my LCA's and figure my UCA geometry.

      Am I on the right track here? I'm pretty new to this.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Canton, Oh
      Posts
      60
      Quote Originally Posted by monteboy84 View Post
      I'm looking at 4x4 Blazer spindles (using 2wd hubs) which will function as a bit of a drop spindle, and I believe they are also taller than the G or S-10 spindle.
      I don't think you'll be able to use a 4wd spindle without some fabrication. The lower ball joint points toward the ground, on the 4wd, compared to a G-body/S-series (2wd) spindle where the lower ball joint points up. In other words, the taper will be in the wrong direction.

      Later, Doug
      “A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Quote Originally Posted by driftinblzr View Post
      I don't think you'll be able to use a 4wd spindle without some fabrication. The lower ball joint points toward the ground, on the 4wd, compared to a G-body/S-series (2wd) spindle where the lower ball joint points up. In other words, the taper will be in the wrong direction.

      Later, Doug
      Thanks for pointing that out, I should have noted that I'd have to bore and ream the LBJ hole straight and larger, to accept a shouldered chromoly insert with the correct taper and direction for the GBody LBJ.

      Well see though, it'd definitely be more work than using the newer 2wd Blazer Spindles....



    Tags for this Thread


    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com