Project WidowMaker - The Chevelle Build Thread

[454bug]

Man, that is some EXCELLENT metal work!!!

The car looks AWESOME!

Keep up the great work!!

[The WidowMaker]

What size rectangle tube did you use on that? Are you just butt welding them all the way around where each piece meets or do you have small pieces inside for any additional support?

i used 1.5 x 3" .120 and 1.5" .120 dom. the cut was actually a pie, so the top side is still there. the 3 other sides will be butt welded. if i had made a full cut, i probably would have reinforced it on the inside a little.

very nice Tim. Where did you get your fab skills? I think they are top notch.

its all trial and error. i used to have to remake everything, but im slowly getting better.

[clu269]

What size DOM did you use to stiffen the chassis? I have 1.5" tacked in place ready to weld. Do you think that is sufficent?
Thanks Clu

[The WidowMaker]

i used 1.75" .120. i thought about using 1.5" for the webbed portion, but just did it all out of the same material. obviously the bigger the better, but anything will help. i dont have scientific results, but it stiffened it up on the rotisserie, even after the frame was boxed.

if its all tacked up, just run what you have. youll end up with a little more clearance as well.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

i have a few days off this week and ballistic fab sent me the end links, so i decided to get the sway bar done. i ran into a little snag though. at full lock and slightly before full compression there is a bind between the steering arm and end link. i cant ever think of a scenario where this would be possible, but either way i want it gone.

the issue starts with the fact that i got the rod ends with studs installed. i did this since it eliminated the number of parts required, but it positions the rod end further from the mounting hole. although the clearance required between the outside of the studded rod end and mounting hole, and the head of a bolt on a non studded rod end and the mounting hole are the same, thats not where the arms are coming into contact. i need to remove the studs tomorrow and install with bolts. this will get rid of the bind.

here are a couple of pics at full lock. i dont see how i would ever have this much compession at this point, even going over a speed bump or a driveway approach.

this is ride height with the spindle straight forward



still straight but you can see the space the stud offsets the joint.



and bind. you cant see it, but the contact is at the base of the joints head. i can lengthen it even more if necessary. a bolt wouldnt contact, and it would give me over 1/4" more clearance.



i also need to finalize the lowers point once i get the upper situated. ive already moved it a few times as you can see from all the tacks.

more to come tomorrow.

[The WidowMaker]

not much to update. i had to make a couple more bends in the arm, but it clears to full bump and lock. it doesnt look as good as i had hoped, but it works, and thats what should matter most. i now have to make the other side match.

i also took advantage of the bing.com 10% discount and bought the wilwood pedals, 3 mc's and an ididit steering column from summit. the parts showed up yesterday, so that will be the next project to come as soon as the damn sway bar is finished.

Tim