S10 M/C Bleeding Tips?

[MarkM66]

Mark,

I am not sure if this helps at all, but I am using the S10 MC with good results. I have the front brakes plumbed to the rear port and the rear brakes to the front port. My front calipers are Wilwood Billet Superlite 6 piston and in the rear I have single piston PBRs. The system is manual. I started with a totally dry system and it took a while to get a firm pedal. I went around the whole car about 6 times before there were no bubbles from the calipers.

Andrew

Andrew, is your S-10 M/C for an original power disc truck, or manual.

When looking for this m/c, I noticed two different types.

AC#18M310, with power, 24 & 36mm bore.



AC#18M309, without power, 31.75 & 24.0 MM cylinder bore.

I'm assuming you used the one "with power" since you plumed the rear port (the larger bore size) to the front brakes. If so, did it have the shallow pushrod hole?

[Mean 69]

By the way, Andrew, how would you characterize the pedal effort with your system? The six pot Wilwoods are pretty close to the Alcon units in terms of piston area, so this is pretty darned close to what I expect from the new setup if I ran a 1" unit. Do you get decent rear braking performance? Proportioning valve?

Mark

[andrewb70]

Andrew, is your S-10 M/C for an original power disc truck, or manual.

When looking for this m/c, I noticed two different types.

AC#18M310, with power, 24 & 36mm bore.

AC#18M309, without power, 31.75 & 24.0 MM cylinder bore.

I'm assuming you used the one "with power" since you plumed the rear port (the larger bore size) to the front brakes. If so, did it have the shallow pushrod hole?

I got the "without power" model. I did not have the as much data as you guys do now. Looking at the specs now, I would probbaly go with the "with power". The MC has a shallow pushrod hole.

By the way, Andrew, how would you characterize the pedal effort with your system? The six pot Wilwoods are pretty close to the Alcon units in terms of piston area, so this is pretty darned close to what I expect from the new setup if I ran a 1" unit. Do you get decent rear braking performance? Proportioning valve?

The brake pedal feel is very nice. The effort is moderate and I am able to modulate the brakes very well at the point of lock up. Keep in mind that I am also running 14 inch rotors in the front and 12 in the rear. The rear brakes work great. The system is very well balanced, at least in my car. I have almost full pressure going to the rear brakes and the rear lock up just after the fronts. Attached is a picture of my rotor and caliper. Next to it is a 13 inch rotor from a Baer Track kit.

Andrew

[Mean 69]

Now THAT is what I call a rotor! Is that 1.25" thick, or thicker? Was this from a kit that you bought, or did you piece it together? I bought a pair of Wilwood hats to start putting my stuff together, but it has a far greater offset than that one, maybe I didn't look hard enough at their catalog to find a shallower one.

So when are you moving out to California!?!? Chicago is nice and all, I grew up near there, but you can drive that bad monster all year round out here! Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

Mark

[andrewb70]

That rotor is actually 1.38 inch thick. With the aluminum hat is weighed less than the 13 x 1.1 cast iron rotor. The hat is from the Wilwood 4th gen F-body kit. The rotor was made by Coleman. The whole system was put together by Precision Brakes company.

More details here:

http://groups.msn.com/projectgattago/shoebox.msnw

Andrew