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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560

      Help With Door Alignment - My New Paint is Chipped

      I'm hoping someone can shed some light on my door alignment issue. I just bought this car, and it's got fresh paint on it (about 4 weeks old), and I've got an issue with the driver's door alignment. The gap at the front looks about right to me, but it rubs just a bit on the fender when I open the door - and now I have a chip in my new paint
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      I guess I could pull the fender forward a bit, but that's going to open the gap up. Any suggestions? I have very little experience with body work.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States
      there needs to be more bow in the fender ....from the pic it looks like the door sits out more than the fender.....but...the fender line is higher on the fender than the door...I would remove a shim from the top of the fender to create more bow and lower the body line...its takes a long time to learn how to set 1st gen panels...tough to diagnose on the web

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,197
      Country Flag: United States
      There should be a bolt at the bottom of the fender. You can loosen that bolt and pull the bottom of the fender out slightly. That will move the fender out slightly and open up the gap. I'd try that first.

      Good luck.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      Thanks guys! This is one of those things I would gladly pay a "pro" to do - along with wet sanding the car, but finding one locally is always a crap shoot.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Pensacola, FL
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      If you remove a shim from the top of the fender, pay close attention to the short gap at the base of the windshield pillar. This is another tough area that tends to do the same thing that happened with the chip at your body line. Since its already painted, you may have to play some give & take on the gaps and live with it to keep it from chipping other areas. Take you time and watch closely before you open the door all the way after making an adjustment

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      Thanks again for the advice everyone!

      The gap at the top seems pretty tight. So while I think removing the shim would align the fender better, as vet said I'm afraid I would run into a different issue with rubbing at the top. I think I'll try moving the bottom of the fender out a bit to see if I can get the door to clear. Hopefully it will be a temporary fix until I can find someone in the area to wet sand and align the panels for me.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      Rockvale TN
      Posts
      402
      Country Flag: United States
      Was this car painted in pieces or together? That should have been caught before it ever went in the booth.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      It was painted together. I bought the car a couple weeks after it was painted. They put in some patch panels and replaced a quarter, and that seems to be well done (I have some in-process photos showing the cutout panels, fit up, and welding). I'm guessing this was an existing issue that got overlooked because it didn't include rust.

      But I agree, it should have been fixed before it was painted.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,731
      Country Flag: United States
      you sure thats not some door sag with all the hardware back into the door? It looks to me that the door needs to come up a 1/16 of a inch.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,872
      Country Flag: United States
      Post some pics of the door to rocker and door to quarter gaps.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      I appreciate any help you guys can offer! I won't hesitate to tear apart an engine or a transmission, but I'm hesitant to start tweaking body panels because the "oops," tends be more expensive and not something I can fix at the house.

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      The door does sag a bit when it's opened. Meaning I have to pick up on it to get it to close if I'm closing it easily.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      Where are you located?
      The rule is measure twice and cut once. My problem is I still measure with a mic and cut with an axe!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      459
      Country Flag: United States
      Hard to be certain from pics....to me it looks like remove a shim from the top. That would move the top of the fender down (needs) and bow the center out a touch (also needs)
      This is the build thread for my car
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Beak-Job-quot

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,872
      Country Flag: United States
      Top of door is flush with top of quarter panel so I think the door is ok. I would try lowering the top of the fender as suggested above.

      Is this a repop fender? I have had to cut and reweld the rear brace on some repop fenders to get the shape to match the door.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      Rockvale TN
      Posts
      402
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by AU Doc View Post
      I appreciate any help you guys can offer! I won't hesitate to tear apart an engine or a transmission, but I'm hesitant to start tweaking body panels because the "oops," tends be more expensive and not something I can fix at the house.


      The door does sag a bit when it's opened. Meaning I have to pick up on it to get it to close if I'm closing it easily.
      Possible the hinges are worn?

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      246
      Country Flag: United States
      Put painter's tape on the edges of the door and fender when you are making adjustments. It will help to keep from chipping paint off.
      Rick - 1969 Camaro - LS1 driven daily

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,872
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by HandOverFist View Post
      Possible the hinges are worn?
      Missed that. Yes the bushings are worn. Should have been replaced before the car was body worked. Not sure if they are causing the issue though.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      246
      Country Flag: United States
      Remember that you set the door alignment to the rear quarter and door sill area, then you adjust the front fender to the door.

      Shims in the top and bottom of the fender will bow or flatten the fender. Add shims to the top to set the fender height and add to the bottom to flatten the curve, remove from the bottom to add more curvature. Pull the whole fender forward to give a larger gap between the fender and the door.

      Rick
      Rick - 1969 Camaro - LS1 driven daily

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      Sorry for the slow replies on my part! I've been out of town.

      If I'm following along correctly, it sounds like I need to rebuild my drivers door hinges to start with. I suppose I knew this but was dutifully trying to ignore it hoping it would just go away . Has anyone done this with the door on the car? I don't relish the idea of taking my door off and then having to get it aligned again. Even marking the hinge position before I take off the door only got me close the last time I tried this.

      Next, sounds like I need to try removing a ship at the top. From what you guys are telling me that will do two, both of which I seem to need. Bring the body line on the fender down a bit and provide a little more bow in the fender to help the door clear when it's opened.

      Thanks for all the help ! I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.


      I'm located near Auburn Alabama. I'm sure there are good body shops in the area, but figuring out which is which and finding the ones with experience working on classic cars is tough. It tends to be a pay your money and take your chances sort of deal. If anyone knows of someone in my area, I'd be glad to pay them a visit!

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      459
      Country Flag: United States
      I guess rebuilding the hinges while ON the car IS possible....BUT you will have a greater risk of paint damage in the attempt than the R/R of the door.
      This is the build thread for my car
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Beak-Job-quot

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