Priming process?

[jlcustomz]

This may be one of the most opinionated subjects out there.
I know some of your procedure you are adjusting to having to be towed to spray booth back & forth.
I've been on spi forum for a while myself& starting to use their stuff. First of all, it would really be better to get another day of dry time with epoxy before spraying with poly primer. Possible issues could be cracking or adhesion issues.
Much different opinion on primer usage, but you definitely want enough dry time after epoxy & coating epoxy before 7 day window time & respray epoxy on epoxy with over 7 days dry time for adhesion, can be a reduced epoxy coat , which will be smoother & not require as much dry time. A reduced coat of epoxy as a final sealer before actual paint adds adhesion. Definitely want to spot spray epoxy if you hit bare metal during the bodywork process. Items in this paragraph are pretty consistant among spi users.

Lots of opinions on primers. I've used g-2 in the past & there was a thread a few weeks ago on spi about the newer evercoat poly primers, I think it was Chris Hamilton commenting on one of the newer grades being his favorite. To me one of the main things about poly primer is being able to take the place of slathering a whole car with a skim coat of filler. this stuff sprays on rough & sands smooth, which makes it work as a guidecoat. As with any body filler, you pretty much want to sand off all that isn't needed without. Early in the blocking process of a poly spray filler I d skim coat areas that appear to need more filler as soon as they start showing up, such as you'll likey find where you shaved your driprails.
As you know, a poly primer needs a good sealing. Some spi members don't even use 2k primers, they do a couple of standard epoxy spraycoats over it, let It dry , blocksand it, then do the reduced epoxy coat before paint.
Some spi members only use 2k primers. If you have a body in much straighter condition, the 2k primers aren't as nasty to fool with. Poly primers use mekp as a hardner & have that strong fiberglass styrene monomer smell. With 2k primers you don't want to overuse them on spots where you really need to apply more bodyfiller, this is how you can end up with shrinkage spots showing up after job completion.
Some people start out with 2k primer, use standard bodyfillers where needed, a little more 2 k over it, then use the poly primers over it as a final long block sanding step. All a matter of opinion. Just don't do any wrong steps in your process.

If you have some areas that definitely need more body filler work while the rest of the body is pretty good, you could epoxy those areas at home first, hand apply body filler after 2 days, sand & epoxy again to cut down on work time between having to go back & forth between booths.
Just a few opinions.....