Bleeding wilwood's

[Rob68427]

Hello,
I have a 68 Chevelle with wilwood 6 piston Dynalite Pro series - Front and 4 piston rear. Wilwood 7/8 Aluminum Tandem Master and the new combination Proportioning valve. 3/16 lines.
My question is can you vacuum or reverse bleed this setup?
I just bought a Phoenix bleeding kit. And I can't vacuum or reverse bleed this setup. I'm not sure if it is because of the new proportion valve or what but it won't let me do either. I even wedged a board to hold the pedal down, and still no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob

[Rob68427]

Anyone?
Ok how about this question?
I bleed the brakes and the pedal feels great and the next day doesn't feel as firm.
Nothing is leaking.

[Wes.Drelleshak]

Sounds like you have air in the system still.
Did you bleed both top bleeders... if you have them? Did you start with the RR , LR, RF and then Left Front? Bleed the master before you installed it?

[Rob68427]

Bled both top bleeders. Tapped the caliber to get out any trapped air. Master bled. Blocked the port on the master too and pedal hard as a rock.
What sucks is I had perfect brakes before with a hydraboost setup. But It didn't work with my engine and cam. So I went to manual setup.

[V8240Z]

I had a similar problem and found I had a bubble of air trapped in the long run under the drivers floor. I could not get it to clear with a vacuum bleeder or manually bleeding it. I used a pressure bleeder at the master and after about 1 qt of fluid through the system it finally cleared.

[Skip Fix]

If they have those tiny bleeders like my Wilwoods do I think that is some of the issue to get a decent flow out them to move the air. My drag car hid soem in the lne lok and took lots of fluid to get them out.

[Rob68427]

Thanks guys.
V8240Z, Thanks. Do they sell a pressure bleeder that works with wilwood tandem master?
Skip Fix, Thanks, you gave me an idea. To take off the bleeder and reverse bleed it that way. I tested it yesterday and it works. But I didn't have time to do all four corners. So I'm hoping to finish it today.

Thanks

[AintQik]

They do. I have the exact same problem with the exact same equipt. I actually fought a bad mast for 3 months, then figured it out. Now I get rock hard brakes then the next day its soft again. Same deal, same parts. At least now I know its air. Before I could not bleed the system at all. I think these calipers/combination hordes air. Its tough to get em clear.

[Skip Fix]

"Now I get rock hard then the next day its soft again." --Viagra! Couldn't help myself

[wheelsup351]

I have had the same problem for the last few months. It has been the biggest pain in the rear. I replaced the prop valve, the master, all the lines (hard and hydraulic) and still have a problem. Though, I think I have found the culprit and do not have a solution. Hope you guys can help.

The bleeder valve screws into the brass adapter which goes into the caliper. After a few days, I noticed that fluid would seep up the threads on the bleeder (in the actual brass adapter). I unscrewed the adapter at a few of the caliper locations and saw that the holes in the bottom of the brass adapter had all enlarged themselves over time. So I replaced the bleeder assemblies. I got a very firm pedal but I still have fluid chasing up the a few of the threads.

Is there any kind of sealant I can use on the bleeder threads?

[J-440]

Rob...I have the same setup as you do. I got stopped in my tracks because the upper innner bleed screw on the right rear I can't even turn it with an open ended wrench. Do I need a special tool or what? Thanks for the help.

[J-440]

BAH!! Never mind. I had a brief brain fart. Hate when that happens.

[Rob68427]

J-440, that's cool. We all get them.

[andrewb70]

BAH!! Never mind. I had a brief brain fart. Hate when that happens.

Righty tightie, lefty loosie! :-)

Andrew

[minendrews68]

I've had to unbolt my calipers, and tilt the bleed screw up so it would be at the highest level and then bleed. This worked for me. Just remember to keep some of the rotor between the pads, or you will have a real problem on your hands..

Carl

[MonzaRacer]

If bleeders leak you CAN put some thread tape on the threads only, and here is one reason I really dislike Wilwood, well that and back in the day Ihad partnered up with a guy and built an 86 Monte SS AeroCoupe as drag car. We had Wilwood all around, supposedly NEW and had caliper start leaking and THAT one was discontinued, And we had issues getting repair parts, got lots of excuses.
As for hard one day then less hard next, sounds like you may need 2 psi pressure checks in line. Reason being is the pistons relax back from rotor as pressure is off. since all of its new, and probably not driven in yet you also may have issue with pads not being seated into the rotor, fresh brake jobs are usually kind of mushy for first half dozen stops till you scuff the grind marks off pad.

[rrelco]

I had the same issue using 6 piston on front and 4 in rear they are fixed calipers, not sure but you may have pad nock back issue like I have....i bleed mine over and over and over